DevilDriver

Ahhh, hello old friend!

Some of the parts that came with.

Ok, maybe this blurry shot gives you a hint about the top box. You likey, Jim?

Well posted and, dare I say, rather timely as well.

things are cool. . .i'm not spending so much time on S10forum or whatever SIN is called nowadays . . . haven't seen you around there alot either. . . probably tired of the BS on there too This has pretty much been my home for a while. SIn/CSo has gotten so slow and sometimes I get tired of the group there; S10Forum is not my favourite place either.

Nope. Fair enough. I'll just use my imagination Just squint at a picture of an 18. LOL Make sure it's an Audiobahn product. Err.....

Welcome. Been a while since we talked. Hope things are well in your world.

Well put.

Still nothing. I would at least figure a response or post of some sort. Not to sound like a jerk, but what I gathered from conversations with Scott and Nick was that they would really be pushing to have it ready for the 4th at best (and even then, products like the Poly's would not be available at that time). I think it's also worth noting that Ascendant Audio will be on a dealer network (with only one online dealer that I know of), so updating the site immediately is probably not their priority.

Dual 1.5's or Dual 1ohm. I imagine the dual 2 ohm will have a DC Resistance of around 1.4 ohm per coil, if that's what you're asking for.

We said pretty much the same thing, just that I expanded a bit. It took me too long to get my post completed and you snuck in under the radar.

I'll try to take a crack at these and hopefully they give you what you're looking for... 1. Mechanical failure is when you have damaged moving parts that will prevent the driver from functioning properly. 2. 9 times out of 10, you can hear it coming first. It sounds quite literally like the driver is over-extending itself, either by the former/voice coil banging on the backplate or a slightly drier sound of it over-extending in the forward direction and really pulling the suspension. It's kind of hard to explain, but I think once you've heard it, you'll recognize it immediately. You can also sometimes hear the cone hitting the spider landing or the tinsel leads slapping against the cone and/or spider. Any of these that cause permanent damage would be examples of mechanical damage, in my opinion. However, some things can happen a little bit, cause some permanent damage, but still be very usable. For example, you can slap through the top spider on a BTL and experience very little audible change in performance. But if you smack the former into the back plate a few times, you're probably in trouble. 3. The only way to cause mechanical damage is to over-excurt the speaker, and the only way to do this is to apply too much power. The caveat here is that "too much power" is relative to both the frequencies being played and the enclosure being used. Generally speaking, lower frequencies will excite more excursion from the driver than higher frequencies. Similarly, a larger enclosure will induce more excursion than a smaller one. Playing about an octave below Fb (the tuning frequency of your ported enclosure) will also cause the driver to unload and excursion to increase drastically. 4. Thermal damage would be when you have damaged the voice coil, former, or even the tinsel leads due to the amount of current flowing through and around any of these. 5. This *should* be easy to detect, so long as you have not jumped in full bore. If you're playing at a relatively sane level, you should smell something burning (and it is really an awful smell: very noticeable). If you are hard of smelling, you will be able to tell just by looking. Any of the parts in question will be significantly darker, if not black. 6. Similar to mechanical damage, thermal damage can only occur due to overpowering the driver. This is a very complex idea in and of itself. Your average consumer sees one thing: RMS ratings. Naturally, they believe that using an amplifier with an RMS rating below the driver's is underpowering, and using an amplifier with an RMS rating above the driver's overpowering. The truth is, it is much more complicated than that. First, consider the gain stage. Second, a driver is capable of handling much more than RMS in certain conditions. Extended play with low crest factor material (ie. fully clipped signals w/ 0dB crest factor, sine waves with a 3dB crest factor, or poorly recorded music with crest factors ranging from 3dB-10dB) is a good recipe for thermal damage, but music with a very high crest factor and very transient music (ie. a few bass notes here, a few there) can be handled by the driver at power ratings well above RMS without any significant damage. I think it is worth noting that low voltage supply to your amplifier when driving the speaker at a very low impedance will almost certainly compound this issue. Third, power compression indicates that adding more power is not necessarily a good thing; nearly every driver out there is more than satisfactory with well below RMS power and will run into preliminary power compression before reaching it's RMS rating. Hopefully that makes some sense. Please reply if something seems unclear.

I would expect so very shortly. Scott is out of town from the 28th to the 7th (iirc) getting things in place.

Yup, because the motor was very cheap to build!

I will be adding the Differential Drive (aka Dual Gap) technology when I get a chance. Though it does allow for some flexiblity in terms of keeping BL linear, it shows more benefits in power handling by increasing surface area and air flow over the coil substantially. The W7 is a very simple method: it's a standard overhung design with some machining done in the pole piece. If the right amount is done in the right places, you can achieve surprisingly linear BL, but it becomes increasingly more challenging to achieve this at very high levels of excursion. Of course, I'm of the opinion that a speaker that takes 1kW with 30mm of Xmax is more than enough for my ears. Here is a perfect example of what I was talking about in the pole piece. You'll notice the pole piece is a little extended with many holes machined in the middle; towards the upper part of the pole, there is no machining (helps keep more flux in the fringe field and kind of "lift" the ends of the BL curve, so to speak). Many thanks to Lukas at www.audiojunkies.com

Second Skin, no question over here.

Maybe wait a couple weeks and grab the new Poly's from Ascendant Audio.

They started doing that in Vancouver at the beginning of the year, iirc.