bimmerboy

any updates?

Looks like I found my soultion! pics to come w/ my upcoming build, lets just say it will satisfy all my requirements

Is there any way to wire my iPod to my factory deck? It doesn't have an aux input, and I don't want to run it off a radio frequency due to shitty SQ. I plan on running an MTX re-q sound processor to run my subwoofer/amp, but otherwise I will have a stock 2003 Toyota Camry system. *Edit* Just read up on the MTX re-Q5, looks like it has an aux input...would this work for me? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10834_MTX+Audio+reQ-5+-re-Q+%3Csup%3E5%3C-sup%3E-.html Any ideas would be appreciated, i'm stumped here Thanks!

Crap, my car has a factory in-dash cd-changer, none of those will work.... any other ideas?

I have been thinking about this for some time as well. All else being equal, what are the advantages of a bigger subwoofer besides power handling?

Looking Great !

Kinda OT, but what is the Bass EQ good for then? Seems like it's pretty pointless?

Did the problem go away after changing the settings? Do you have a high pass filter? Maybe you need to adj. that... I would turn your gain down until you solve this problem

Seems like I read a lot of posts regarding people blowing or ruining their Fi sub for various reasons, causing them to get a re-cone... My question is, are these subs easy to destroy? They seem very durable and underrated, which makes me think the opposite, but after reading on here it seems not to be the case.. I want to get a better idea as to why there are so many cases of Fi subs needing re-cones, and not other subs, like AA or SSA... Any thoughts?

LOL I drive a toyota... how does Fi=AA? are they owned by the same company?

wow that looks sick, would love to hear that setup once its done

Definitely makes sense, so Fi is pretty accurate on rating their subs then, no need to go over stated rms if you want your stuff to last.

welcome

I'm having one made by Andrew@ArgentAudio... Honestly I don't think it will be too bad, the hardest part for me will be running the wires through the car as well as hooking the stock Head Unit to the MTX re-Q(sound processor) researching and learning on here has def. helped me out a shit load though.

I am planning my first real DIY build and have some questions regarding the wiring... Before I ask, here is my planned setup: Power/Wiring -Stock Battery -Stock Alternator -Big 3 upgrade to all 1/0 gauge wires -300A Fuse -12 gauge speaker wires for the subs Sub/Amp -Fi SSD 15" wired at 1ohm -Audioque AQ1200D (1200rms@1ohm) (40A x3 fuses, 120A total) (4 gauge connectors) 1) Will doing the big 3 upgrade be sufficient enough for my battery and alternator for this system? If not, what else should I look in to? 2) Should I hook up the amp w/ 4 gauge wiring or use 1/0? I would prefer to use 1/0 but the connectors are 4, is there a solution to this? Is 4 gauge sufficient for this kind of amp? 3) Is the 300A fuse overkill since my system is only 120A? Should I get a 200A fuse? 4) Anything else i'm missing? I def. want to get my install right the 1st time, so any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

have you looked at the SSA ICON?

throw some wide angle bubbles on your side mirrors and forget about the rear view lol

Thanks guys! So just to be clear: -0/1 gauge for the big 3 with a 300A fuse. -0/1 gauge for the batt. to amp. but w/ a 120A fuse near the battery, then to 0->4 adapter at the end to input on the Amp(4gauge hookup). sorry for so many questions, just wanna get everything right the 1st time!

yessir I'm having it setup with a custom box from Argent Audio, ported 3ft^3 @33hz per Fi's recommendation. can't wait!!

Hey guys I've been trying to learn as much as I can before I start buying anything, and this forum is pretty sick! So far, I plan to run a single 15" ported off an audioque 1200D amp. Any thoughts on what subs to get for ~$200? I was looking into the Alpine type-R due to my budget, but now i'm kinda leaning towards SSA or AA subs....

Just Checked my car.... Alternator is 140A (stock Denso unit) Batterry is a Duralast 130 reserve (idk what that means) Would doing the big 3 be enough to prevent voltage issues? I will fuse the wire going from the battery to the amp, why do you have to fuse it within 12-18" of the battery tho?

I was actually referring to the 1/0 alt to battery connection, I was going to fuse that at 300A b/c of the wires... I didn't even think of fusing the amp, should I? I thought the Amp has fuses already so I should be set? Thanks for the advice! So for my setup would 1/0 gauge wiring for the whole system help my battery/alt.? If so I will wire everything with 1/0

Seriously, local car audio shops suck! atleast all the ones i've been to. They all try to push their shitty ass subs/amps and and always get mad when you try to challenge their opinions. Not to mention the rip-off install prices, the extremely poor customer service of local shitty car audio stores is exactly why I am on this site now, researching and learning on my own so that I can save $$$ and have a way better system!