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An-i-no

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Everything posted by An-i-no

  1. It's kind of funny...where your car probably has legroom in the driver's seat, mine is a little more cramped. There are big holes that are higher up, almost right under/behind the steering column (I think? loll, where the steering wheel and gauges are) but I I stuck a flashlight through them and can't find them on the other (engine side). I'm not really sure how to get wire through there without wrapping it around my motor lol.
  2. The firewall in my Explorer makes me wanna Me and my dad had all kinds of hell fitting two 8 guage wires in there without drilling a hole. This time I just wanna look for a good spot to hole saw big enough for 0ga and call it a day.
  3. Use a 0gauge to 4gauge end reducer, then you can run 0gauge out of your 4gauge output. Such as: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16846_Stinger+SPT821+-Gold-.html DOPENESSSSSSS. Thanks alot man.
  4. No, no guys, you missed part of the original post. I'm running 0ga into a Distro block that has 4ga outputs! If I could just run 0ga straight to the amp it'd be a no brainer lol
  5. Hmmm....would that be sufficient if it's a short run?
  6. An-i-no

    Box Impedance Rise.

    Ok guys, I was looking into a few stats on bench testing, and noticed that amps wired to ".5 ohms nominal" could see up to 1.5 ohms in reality. So, with that in mind, I read into box rise and all that good stuffs. I was just wondering, If I skip terminals on the box altogether and run wires through a small hole (that would be sealed up after of course) or out through a port would this help at all? Or would the longer length of wire just defeat the purpose? Thanks in advance, as always.
  7. An-i-no

    Box Impedance Rise.

    Terminals and wire resistance is small compared to your actual impedance. Are you chasing tenths on a meter ? No, but I just like to know that everything is being used to it's actual potential. Ive seen some cases where what should be 600rms to each sub is only 3-400
  8. Ok. Here's the story. I got a check for 190 bucks. I figure, I'll buy my first sub. (Sold the RE SE-x to a buddy, change of plans) I'm doing 2 12's, so I buy a IA Lethal Injection. Couple days go by, no updates. So I email, and the guy at Vertexaudio.com tells me he's gonna shoot a call to Nick. (great guys to do business with btw) Turns out, they're out of stock on a certain part of the sub and Nick estimates 3-4 weeks on a restock. Now I read about his recent health troubles so I'd take his word for it, but in the meantime why not play the market. But lets backtrack now. Before I ordered the Lethal Injection, I was dead set on two SA-12's, however I heard that my measly NINe.1 was just not enough juice for them and the LI's would be louder. So then, I had a little conversation with Mr. Demuth over at T3 Audio, but I heard some news about them shutting down and then he stopped answering my emails...so...Then I took a look at the AudioQue SDC2.5's but everyone seems to agree they're more SPL-y (lol makin up adjectives). SOOOO....I'm comin to SSA cause I always get the best advice here... WHAT DO I DO NOW!!!!! Wait the month or so and buy two Lethal Injections? Buy back my RE SE-x's? Take a chance on T3 Audio? Underpower a pair of SA-12's? I hate when things go wrong in this hobby...as if I wasn't indecisive enough already lol. Thanks in advance guys.
  9. An-i-no

    NOOOOES! MY Lethal Injection!

    I understand completely bro, at first I was just gonna go ahead and get the SA-12's and give em the power that I had, but I despise disappointment and don't have money to spend on a do-over. I mainly want low, loud, and clean. I won't be visiting any comps and I don't wanna replace my stock alt (130 amp). There's a system in the car already that I inherited (which consists of two old pioneer blue cones running off of an old Alpine mrp something lol) but it refuses to get low and just isn't enough for me. I have a set of Hertz HSK165's (the older ones) that I basically stole off of ebay, serial numbers intact, and I have a NINe.1 sitting up under them. So...in short, I want to get low and I want to fear my volume knob.
  10. An-i-no

    NOOOOES! MY Lethal Injection!

    It will sounds just fine. And, when you get more power, it will get ever louder. Thanks for the input. I will keep this in mind.
  11. An-i-no

    NOOOOES! MY Lethal Injection!

    Good Ol, middle of nowhere Waco. Famous for the second coming of the Messiah, which didn't even happen in Waco...lol Anyway I'd love to have some hands on learning. Car Audio here is...well...nasty undeadened trunks and stacks of Walmart tweets on your door
  12. An-i-no

    NOOOOES! MY Lethal Injection!

    I gotcha. But what I REALLY wanna know is, would the SA-12 sound "weak" because it wants more power? Or would it be plenty loud with minimal effort?
  13. An-i-no

    NOOOOES! MY Lethal Injection!

    I want the SA-12's sooooooooooo bad, but like I said, I've been told that they need more than 6-700rms apiece. If I can get a little technical, what exactly happens when two speakers of near identical sensitivity, placed in an identical box, are given identical power? I assume they would be just as loud? But lets say one sub is built to handle ~1200rms while one is built to handle ~800rms, does it make a difference then? I guess what I'm saying is...would a Fi BL (for example) be just as loud off of 750rms as a Fi SSD? (If they had very similar specs, that is, besides power handling?)
  14. An-i-no

    NOOOOES! MY Lethal Injection!

    Hmmm...an answer I can respect. Still, opinions are greatly appreciated, positive or negative
  15. An-i-no

    NOOOOES! MY Lethal Injection!

    Ok, So I would absolutely love for someone to convince me to buy the IXL...anyone have personal experience?
  16. An-i-no

    NOOOOES! MY Lethal Injection!

    NIB? Details please.
  17. An-i-no

    NOOOOES! MY Lethal Injection!

    Quick replies, I love this site. And hmmm...another interesting thought. I just read about the shortage of SA-12's as well...
  18. An-i-no

    NOOOOES! MY Lethal Injection!

    Hmm..those mach 5's look hella sexy... I considered the ssd, but how would they sound being slightly underpowered?
  19. An-i-no

    6.5 Coaxial Opinions

    Why is that? EDIT: I have a semi-solution. I think I'll go ahead and run Type S 5x7's for the rear and just use my Eq to fade to the front when I'm riding alone or with one passenger.
  20. An-i-no

    6.5 Coaxial Opinions

    Ok guys. Subs are in the mail. Mono and 4 Channel amp will come with my next two checks. (RE SEx 12, AQ1200D, AQ4x90) As for the money I have now, I need 2 pairs of speakers. I have an Explorer, so 6x9's are out. I'm leaning towards 6.5 coaxials for the front, and either a cheaper pair of 6.5's or 6x8's for a rear fill. There is a hole already made for a tweeter in the door (as the car has a system in it already), so components would be a great choice, EXCEPT....I'm working in a semi-limited budget (not willing to spend more than 160 on both pairs). With all that said, I have two choices picked out. Rockford Fosgate T1652 for front, and P1653 for rear. Still a skeptic though, because I have never heard Aluminum Tweeters. Alpine SPR17C for front, and SPS-600 for rear. Which of these two would give me smoother midbass and a clear (but not too bright) tweeter? I also looked into RE Audio's Coaxials, but have read less than stunning reviews about them. If anyone has anymore suggestions for Coaxials that I can get for less than 90 bucks a pair, I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
  21. An-i-no

    6.5 Coaxial Opinions

    Oh trust me, I do my reading. I'm plenty aware of the cancellation issues it might cause, as well as not having more juice to give my front speakers. I think I'm gonna go with the Type R components, and just buy a spare set of tweeters for the rear. Boy do those Image Dynamic comps look nice, but I just can't afford it...well not at the moment anyway. While I have you guys' attention, any recommendations on tweeters?
  22. An-i-no

    6.5 Coaxial Opinions

    x2 and get a good set of components for the front doors. Then if you ever want to upgrade the rear doors, you still have speakers till you save up enough money for another component set. Appreciate the opinions guys, but I'm a showoffy kind of guy (cmon....aren't most of us?) and I would rather not have to explain why there isn't any sound coming of my back doors! I'm still in high school and plenty of friends'll be in and out of the truck. Do you guys have any experience with RE Audio Coaxials? Cuz I found those for super cheap...I'm hoping it's a deal lol Oh, and if I do go front components only, what's something nice for around 150-60?
  23. Ok. Well I'm hoping my luck is as good as yours. I DO want an EQ though, I've grown super used to mine and love the ability to turn my sub/mids/highs up and down without having to browse through menus. Some songs are bass heavy and instead of fiddling with the gain and attempting to have a "universal EQ set" that works for everything, I'd rather just turn a knob lol
  24. Ok guys, I'm befuddled, so I'm hoping someone here can enlighten me. (without flaming me too much) I am in the market for a simple headunit. I am currently rebuilding my system and have plenty understanding of what I need and how to install it. What I am looking for, is a couple of technical fill-ins, to add the WHY to my WHAT & HOW. My system now has god-awful alt noise. I inherited it, so I just learned to turn the HU volume waaay down, and my aux input volume waaaay up, which sorta solved the problem lol. I refuse to go through a painstaking install to encounter this same problem, so I'm investing in an EQ to boost my input signal voltage (I think? I could look like an idiot right now) as I understand this will reduce noise. On to my questions. 1. Do ALL EQ's come with a line driver? The one I'm looking at (Clarion EQS746) says 7V RMS as "max output level." I have no clue what that means. 2. When using a line driver, what happens to the signal output of my headunit? Would a 4v HU with a 9V line driver have less noise than a 2v HU with the same line driver? 3. I know power has to come from somewhere. How much added current does a EQ or line driver draw? Is it even a factor?
  25. Thanks for the fast and INFORMATIVE reply. One of the reasons I love it here and hate Ca.com Ok, not sure if this'll be clear, I'm pretty new to this, but here goes. I currently have an OEM headunit with an EQ acting as the headunit. (I guess. the remote wire starts at the EQ. Laugh if you want, but we were on a budget) I love the eq, it does everything I need it to and I really don't wanna replace it. But on to the noise issue. The EQ has a front aux input and I have a tape deck aux adapter on my OEM headunit. I lost my 3.5 cord which I was using problem free, NO noise. (Alt or ground loop) When the headunit is turned on (with or without a cd/aux input playing) god awful alt whine shows up and increases with the volume knob on both the eq and the headunit. (but NOT if I turn up my ipod while using the aux input) My grounds are solid, and I have gone through several "Locate your noise" processes with them all ending at the HU. I have no clue if simply replacing the HU will make this go away, but I'm still in the planning stages of my rebuild and am trying to factor in all possible costs. I read somewhere (I think it was here) that line drivers increase signal voltage, therefor decreasing the "noise floor?" Basically I just want what we all want. NO NOISE.
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