An-i-no

Honestly...that is cool as hell. I'd probably end up like

Lol I'm not gonna lie, I was disappointed when I saw everybody's rear view fall straight down and mine just...kinda vibrates... My buddies Grand Prix goes CRAZY, mirrors fall, his license plate flaps and his rear tires move but I'm much louder than he is...and I'm playing in the mid 20's. *sigh*

Best post. . Sadly, that is a mega investment that is not in the NEAR. Awwww....you guys know EXACTLY what we want though...what other H/U manufacturer could say that?

How do you know this? I have personally owned 2 Audiopipe amps and have installed 4 and I have never had a problem with the knob. As far as I know it's a remote gain knob. It reduces the output to near-nothing when it's all the way down (like the actual gain setting on your amp), whereas a "boost" knob wouldn't do that...I have had AP and AQX series also. And if he says "if we turn it down any more there is barely any bass" then isn't that setting the gain by ear, like most of us suggest? I don't doubt he grossly overpowered them but...I distinctly remember a thread where everyone was bashing the SMD DD-1 with comments like "use your ears!" and now we're here...lol Ap series amps have bass boost knobs. We can agree to disagree. I don't think a boost knob would reduce output to almost nothing when it's all the way down. It would only boost output when you turn it up.

How do you know this? I have personally owned 2 Audiopipe amps and have installed 4 and I have never had a problem with the knob. As far as I know it's a remote gain knob. It reduces the output to near-nothing when it's all the way down (like the actual gain setting on your amp), whereas a "boost" knob wouldn't do that...I have had AP and AQX series also. And if he says "if we turn it down any more there is barely any bass" then isn't that setting the gain by ear, like most of us suggest? I don't doubt he grossly overpowered them but...I distinctly remember a thread where everyone was bashing the SMD DD-1 with comments like "use your ears!" and now we're here...lol

ohhhmiiiiigawd Pls release these before summer so I can go 3 15"s. If the price is right I want 6 12"s.....

I have 16.72274606 cubic feet available (calculator copy/paste ftw). I want new subs. I can do 4 15" Dcons sealed...Idk about ported. I could squeeze 2 18" Icons ported, or easily seal them. I could port an 18" Xcon. Mainly I'm wondering how much I lose by going sealed. So Dcons or Icons do well sealed? Throw some ideas out there!

What the hell is going on in this thread

Sounds neat. Way more technical than anything ill ever do.

If you have an Android go to the market and download SoundForm. If you have an iOS device go to the app store and get FreqGen. EDIT: They're both free. If you don't have either then....? LOL

yup, gonna have to chop the tops of the seats off Gawt Dam. Nothing gets between a man and his bass huh?

Lol @ the raw truth

Yessir. Man as soon as I recover from my Xmas spend-o-thon you guys will be my go to source.

QTS is like...you can think of as.....cone pressure. High QTS subs do well in sealed enclosures.

Are we ever gonna see Head Units for sale?

RSD's made it to a good place! I can't wait til I get loud...good stuff though.

I was installing a simple Hu in a 2006 Sonata and the four screws that hold the oem radio in WILL NOT turn. I can usually do it with my trusty screwdriver but no luck. So I got out our 14.4v Black & Decker with a mostly charged battery and it couldn't turn them either. My dad says I need to drill them out but I'm not sure how to to that. They're semi-stripped now too so yeah. Any help would be appreciated.

Save more money. Otherwise you'll end up buying the stuff you REALLY needed in the first place after you buy some cheap crap.

So now all the screws are completely stripped. The extractors failed miserably and we have made no progress We tried to get them started with a drill bit, no beans. Drilled the head flat, no beans. Tried the extractors as a last ditch efforts and no beans. We're trying to get behind them and see if we can turn them with vicegrips. It's like they're rivets with Phillips heads almost. It's ridiculous.

Hmm...ill reread this tomorrow when the screw is right in front of me. So does the head just pop off after you drill a certain amount? Sorry I'm having a hard time picturing it

Dammit. Sounds like a ton of work.

Just did, I have a basic understanding now. Kinda don't wanna spend money but ill keep that in mind

Damn...the car JUST left. But they were just simple Phillips head screws.

I understand how it works...(it being loading) but I'm not quite sure how to manipulate it to my advantage. I just know that subs up port firing to the drivers side = crazy output below 30hz lol

Completely. I'm tuned to 28 and hit people with 18hz shockwaves lol. I just don't see myself doing it without my ssf or some crazy loading wall setup