Bob345

By xlim do you men it's mechanical liners? If so, it's not needed to do prety much anything

Looks great! I like how it will be open between the motor and spider. I can't wait to se some ultra high xmax 8's!

I say crimp than solder. That's the way I've always done it. Make one of the best conections

first 2 of 4 Ports are in! will soon pat a vid and pics

Ok, so it's been a while since iv updated this build log, but last week I decided to go ported. I just got a email conferming my 2 of 4 4" aeroports have been delivered. I'm not home right Now so no picks till later. The box should be around 7 cubes after port displacement. Guna be tuned to 30 hz. Stay tuned for updates!

That is because people are audio illiterate. Im dead set on getting two fi subs for my next """""SQL""""" setup. If the N1 is comparable to the Q in terms of SQ, then i may just have to get a couple of 18" N1s Dont worry ill have ID XS65 on 250 watts per side with an 7-8" dedicated midbass driver. Point is im hoping he N1 will be SQ oriented like the Q. Care to explain what is so funny? Try being helpful or say something of some intelligence. it's probably about you saying """SQL"""

My first system was a Polk audio db 12 in a 1 cube seald box powered by a crunch 500.2. Had some realy horible 8 gauge too. My speaker wire had more copper. Lol. Now I have a fi q 18 in a 7.8 cube seald(soon to be ported ) with a cheapo kenwood kdc-138 that some how has more features than my friends $200 alpine. And I am saving for a aq 1200 d. Il get some pics of my old system soon

Bandpass enclosures are sealed behind the driver (At least that's what I think), this would be ported. As far as mounting the drivers, build bottom and sides of enclosure, leave top panel off, install first baffle in enclosure, mount drivers on that baffle, put next set of drivers on next baffle, then install second baffle, then install top panel. The only down side is you don't have access to the drivers once installed, if you need them out, time to cut open box... I guess I could make the top panel screw only and not use glue, but that wouldn't seal very well or be very strong, plus I'd have dowels in between for bracing... Hm many you could make some sort of access panle to reach the subs. And the band pass you mentioned is a 4th order, there are many diferent kinds of band pass designs like 6th or 8th order. I thing your slightly resembles an 8th order.

The fi x seems to be a solid budget sub

This is one of the most epic builds on the forum. And let's see some vids!

It wouldn't.

I have to ask how will you mount the subs? But cool design, looks like a type of bandpass but I'm not to sure.

Not "always", but why give China any more of our money? Yea some made I china products are good like the soundstream xxx. But yeah we need to stop sending jobs overseas.

You even dare compare fi to jl audio !?!?! Made in America always beats made in china

Looks great! I'm looking foward to how those fulranges will turn out

So could this be a crossbreed of some sort? That's the only way it's gonna happen, it looks like an RE MT motor with a Fi recone. It's no BTL. he probably bought a btl recone for it thinking it would make it a btl lol

Il try to make it. Itl be my first show!

Those are some crazy pics. Always wondered why they cost so much

Hmm I must do some more reaserch on electromagnetics. This is a very interesting subject

Just read this at smd "The thing people forget is, a square sub creates square sound waves, making it easier to exit a squared port. Round subs do best with round ports."

Aq 2200d

I think you use rubber cement not ca glue on the surround

So is this secondary coil like a electro magnetic brake? So it changes the qes and qts?

Ajustable qts? Interesting. I must find out how this works.

Wow!!! I realy was thinking the price would be way more than that, I may just have to try one of these out now