Robert.Metzel

2 Clicks to the right. 200 acv Black cord in the com port, red cord in the left port. (10a)

I would buy a more common car that's known for having a lot of road noise. You're a sound damping company so it should be a vehicle that will show you can make a common car sound like a whisper quite Bentley using your product. I would also go SQ. Anyone can get loud but not many can build a real SQ system. SPL will take away from the whole point of removing road noise. Your 3 package vehicles are all loud and noisy stock. And I don't see to many people throwing huge systems in any of those cars. If you could deaden a Vette or a Mustang and make the system sound amazing I'd be far more impressed then a quiet ride that's gonna have plastic rattles with an spl setup. I'm sure you could pinpoint every single squeak and rattle, but that would be a bit unrealistic for the average consumer to do. If they heard your demo vehicle didn't make a peep at high spl, they would surely be let down when they order a kit or product expecting the same results and not getting them. Just my opinion.

Nice build! Welcome to the forum!

Custom box all the way! Then you could use the left over wood to build a nice little amp rack so everything looks nice and clean. Building boxes is fun too!

looking good so far! Love the truck!

So I was looking at my new Crescendo Audio CCX65's and I noticed 2 possible issues I'd like feedback on. Issue 1. One of the crossovers is loose in its case and rattles around and can be moved around inside the case by pushing or pulling on the block. The other one is rock solid. Will this cause any issues other then an annoying rattle? If not I will just open the case and adhere it down like the solid one. Issue 2. One of the mids is not centered. I am not sure if this will rub or not during use since its not like these things have subwoofer excursion levels. I pushed the cone up and down a bit and didn't see or hear it rub. But I have a damping factor of about -6. So I could have been subconsciously biased and pushing away from the tight gap so it wouldn't rub. lol Aesthetically this one looks like ass. But I don't care as it will be behind the door panel. See photos below. Perfectly centered mid. Note the nice even gap as it wraps around. Mid that is way off center. Note how tight the gap is closest to the front. There is still a gap, but its a VERY small gap. Seems like the center piece is mounted crooked. Extreme close up of the tight gap. Still looks like enough room to freely move.? The exact opposite side of the tight gap. HUGE gap on this side. And here is a shot of the full set just for fun. First impressions are the build quality is pretty good. My only gripe so far, which isn't major, is the spring terminals are connected to the basket via a very narrow and thin piece of metal. I have seen numerous people say they busted it off the basket pushing them in to insert the speaker wire. So I'll be careful when wiring them up. I lightly tried pushing the spring up and the metal started to twist and bend a bit. Paper thin metal holding it on. Looks a lot thicker via the camera because of the extreme close up. Looking forward to installing them once I get my amp purchased. But for now, what say you about the issues?

First mid shown is fine. The second mid is tight on one side ( Pic 3 )and has a huge gap on the other side ( Pic 4 ). Messed with it a bit more and couldn't get it to rub. I think it will be fine but I'm shooting him an email anyways just to double check.

LOL There is always a lemon in every group. I'm just luck enough to get 2. But the board could have been knocked loose via a clumsy fedex driver dropping the box. I'm a pretty mellow and laid back guy so everyone gets the same benefit of doubt. Intentionally screw me and I start breaking kneecaps. The build seems pretty beefy for a $100 bucks. I was honestly expecting much less. So I'll shoot them an email and see what he says. They are convertible to coaxials so they do have a screw dead center on the motor. So hopefully its just a quick fix. As long as it functions properly and it doesn't rub, the phase plug could be upside down for all I care. lol Thanks all for the recommendations!

Don is awesome and so are his products and CS. I vote YES!

I believe you should always fuse closest to the output source. I always fuse from the alt side and mounted it somewhere out of the way but still accessible.

Don't forget caulk to seal up the box too. Hand held for me. Ill use the table saw for smaller cuts like 45's for the corners. Clamps of course. I have the 90 degree clamps and regular pressure clamps. I use drywall screws and I always use Titebond III wood glue. I use the jig saw for the circles but if you have access to a plunge router I would highly recommend using it. Its easier to just buy a quality box, but even if my boxes turn out less then perfect I'm still happy because I built it. Its a fun process too! WAY cheaper to build your own too.

I use a skill saw, jig saw, drill, pencil and an aluminum straight edge Ruler ( yard stick )

Shipping to APO/FPO Address is a huge headache. I had some clients that work for the embassy in Japan. They came home for their wedding and went back afterwords. So I had to try and ship everything to them. Its was like pulling teeth as I have never shipped to one. The address I was given didn't show up in the UPS or USPS computers. So I was going back and forth with the client trying to figure out what the issue was and why I couldn't ship to them. Maybe because it was the Embassy address? No clue. So at this point I am mad as shit because my clients were getting frustrated, and I hate making clients unhappy, especially ones that have tons of money and power. lol We final decided to give everything to her Dad who was flying over on business a couple months after the fiasco. I support the military, I have a few family members active in Iraq and Afghanistan. Uncles, Aunts, Dad, sister all served. Regardless, I will never try and ship to an APO address again! lol

I don't have a listing for this forum on tapatalk either.

No clue but a free bump for a great HU. Love mine! Hopefully someone will know

You could run a million watt amp at 1000 watts if you wanted to. 1000 watts is 1000 watts regardless of amps rated power. So you'll be fine if you pick up the ap1500d. Keep the power down until you upgrade the electrical and you'll be fine.

Cool. Thanks for all the input. Much appreciated!

So I finally order a set of cheap comps to upgrade the crappy stock speakers. I'm wondering whats the best way to position them when you are so tall you pretty much sit in the back seat to drive? Right now I tend to hear the rear speakers more so then the fronts as I sit so far back. The front stage will be louder then the stocks running off the HU, so I think I might be ok. And advice from you other tall people? I'm 6'6" for inquiring minds. I was thinking maybe building pods just off the bottom corner of the door by my foot and firing the mid's towards the back more and possible putting the tweets on the pillars. Clueless right now. Goals are just to keep up with the subs a bit better. They are cheap comps (Crescendo CCX65) so I know SQ isn't going to be the best. I just want a bit more spl and better mid bass compared to the stocks. Going into a 98 Explorer Sport. Thanks for any advice!

Looks good! You like shooting wide open don't you? 1d Mark II ftw!

Like I said above, I hear the rear speakers more so then the front. The front speakers will be on an amp, but I am trying to maximize the output to my sitting position. When I lean forward a bit more I find the center. More after that and the rears fall off. In stock location the fronts are much farther from my ears then the rears. Rears are going to stay stock for now running off the hu. Did you build your doors out at all? Or are the mids behind the panel still? I like the highs positioning on the sails.You have a build log with pics of that for ref for me?

I agree on the amp for a budget setup. I don't agree with adding BP power automatically means the sub can take 1200 watts. That's install dependent. Turning the gain down to match 800 won't harm a thing.

Worst purchase EVER! DB Sucks! I have one myself. 250 amp alt from them, battery in front and back, 1/0 wire, big 3, 2-ssd 12's and a Sundown SAZ-2000d = Dimming at highway speeds. Rear battery drops to 12 volts at full tilt and the front battery drops to around 13v. DC Alt when I have an extra $600 to blow. I'm getting 13.2 volts at idle WITH a tiny ass under drive pulley on it. Don't hit 14 until 1200+ rpms... Whats worse is the highway voltage is all over the place. I can drive down the road and watch my voltage meter jump around with nothing on. I hope their factory burns down..... that's how much I despise them! lol

Sweet man! Now wheres the flex video, excursion video, and hot chick hair trick video?

Why not just email Richard at tech force and ask him which case it is? He is a pretty cool dude.

We cant see it because the privacy on your page is set to friends only. Throw that sucker on youtube! Just being a tease right now! lol