merzbow

Well it's definitely a good deal smaller than the stock alt, but I imagine some competitors of yours must be going even smaller, given the complaints on their forums about idle performance. (Not that I'm naming any names, heh.) Anyways it's all the same to me as long as it works.

Got the first alt installed: http://www.*****.com/board/topic/114410-2011-chevy-tahoe-10k-watts-4-fi-btl-15s-4-dc-power-alts/page__view__findpost__p__1644898 Too sexy. Surprised that you guys can go with such a small pulley yet still provide such a high idle output. Anyways tomorrow I plan to throw on the entire quad-alt kit (although the alts will just be running as dummies without the harness attached, I don't have my sub stage battery bank or 1/0 back runs installed yet). And BTW, god damn that is sexy. (Worth mentioning again.) Kudos to your powder coater. And as promised I will find a unique way to work the DC Power logo or name in this area somehow.

After waking up I realized I wasn't quite accurate. The alt is of course not grounded directly to the battery, it's grounded to the frame or engine, and that negative battery cable is also grounded to the frame/engine. So the current clamp doesn't see current returning to the alt, only current returning to the battery. This means it only sees battery load. Doesn't change the conclusion though, you should still upgrade that to 1/0.

OK Kyle, with my GM service manuals in hand I've been reading up on the charging system in this vehicle in preparation for the immense amount of work I have to do here. You probably know all this already but I just want to state it for my own understanding. Tell me if I'm wrong anywhere, please... Guess what this is (2011 Chevy Tahoe): That's the "battery current sensor" clamp. It fits around the negative cable from the battery to the frame. (Actually, there are TWO negative cables, a big one to frame and a small one apparently just for the headlight assembly return path, but whatever.) This sensor feeds into the BCM (body control module), which also measures voltage. Using these data, the BCM controls the alternator (by adjusting the field current supply, I think). This is a problem if we want to upgrade that cable as part of installing a high-output alternator. Just keeping the OEM cable connected and running a new 1/0 cable is NOT sufficient because the clamp will NOT see the current running through the new cabling. Basically, this current clamp must see all current being returned to the battery (that is connected to the OEM alternator) for the alternator to be controlled properly. Luckily, it appears this clamp will fit around a 1/0 cable. (The OEM cable is apparently 4-gauge.) So I think I can just do a straight-replace on that cable. Note that there is no way this clamp would fit around MULTIPLE negative cables, nor is there any way to have the BCM control more than one alternator. Which I suppose is why you recommended I completely isolate the extra alternators and their batteries. However, since I'm also replacing the OEM alternator with a 270XP, I need to upgrade the OEM battery and cabling, hence this worrying. So am I right in assuming I can just straight-swap the OEM 4-gauge negative with 1/0, fitting it through the OEM current clamp, and magic will happen?

I fixed the pic.

Lol, I completely missed that you guys had a knowledgebase section on your web site. Going to go through it in detail... The pic definitely helps, thanks.

So I got the alts (build thread here), and they look great. I have a few questions (emailed Kyle but haven't heard back yet). 1. The relay has a long fused red wire and a white wire coming from it. I assume the red wire goes to a free ignition switched slot in the fuse box, and the white wire to ground? 2. Each of the three connectors has a red wire and a blue wire. Where do I attach these? 3. Any tips on routing the new belt? I assume it's important to get as much "coverage" around each pulley as possible? Is there a rule of thumb for how much of each pulley I should cover in order to avoid slippage (40%, 60%, etc.)? 4. If I wanted to run a ground wire to an alt, where do I attach it? From digging around I believe I have answers to all 4 (1 - yes, 2 - both on output stud, 3 - do your best and see what happens, 4 - on the "ear" bolts), but I really want to be sure before risking equipment.

LOL for the cost of shipping a giant MDF box to Malaysia packed well enough so that it won't split apart the OP could probably hire a local carpenter for a week to build five of them...

OK email sent, thanks. Yay, it's finally shown up on UPS radar and will arrive tomorrow. Yet another instance of UPS being lazy-ass bastards and not scanning things properly. I'm dealing with the same issue myself, having just shipped four wheels and tires I sold to somebody on eBay. UPS has "forgotten" to scan one of them. I never have this problem with Fedex...

OK email sent, thanks.

I ordered two more BTL 15s in May. Bizarrely enough one shipped last week and I got it yesterday, the other hasn't even been shipped yet. I've emailed to find out what's going on.

Thread necromancy much? Anyways the Kicker 2500.1 ZX can do 2500 at 2 ohms, and it's neither expensive (compared to the competition) nor hard to find.

I want to push 8-10kw to 4 (four) 1-ohm DVC 15" Fi BTLs. (I'm too scared to go much above RMS, you freaks.) What are my options? The subs can be wired to 2ohms. I was originally planning to go with two strapped Sundown SAZ-4500ds but they are now discontinued and unavailable. I then almost ordered a Warhorse but at the last moment read the manual and it's got some fucked-up wiring scheme that means you can't hook up 4 1-ohm DVC subs. After that my options seems few and far between for this much power. Please suggest some amps that actually look like they might be in stock somewhere...

Yes, I should have made that clear; since the component amps would be somewhere in the back of the car also I would have to run a wire for them specifically from the S3400. Now that I think about it I suppose 1100w is a good deal of power on its own (potentially 80+ amps), although since it's components I probably won't ever be able to hit 1/10th of that without going deaf, lol. I also recall Kyle saying something about the control wire from the vehicle potentially "confusing" the other alternators...

Your right, some of my statement is speculation. But the facts are: Stock case ratings were measured cold loses 5-10% once hot (as do other alts, but just depends where they rate it at to begin with) uses a smaller pulley (which may not be a bad thing) ^This was all gathered from speaking to the company. So it is pretty damn safe to assume that in order for their alternator to make anywhere near the power it is, that they are rewound. When you get your alt installed, post up the amperage numbers from engine idle and 3500rpm or what ever, and show me wrong if you would like... Just trying to help the OP before he makes a purchase one way or another. Sigh. You all were right and I was wrong. The alt is rubbish and won't even push enough amps at idle to power stock accessories. I have given up on car audio in this BMW and am trading it in for a Tahoe in which I will use alts from DC Power. I will probably have to involve my credit card company in order to get my money back from these guys.

I pulled up a bunch of very interesting threads on Stetsom amps on various forums where people were criticizing the design of the amps, and I have to agree... for example, their amps take at most single 1/0 power and ground up to the V 14K2... the 7K2 apparently consists of two amps internally connected by only 4 gauge wire... the conclusion by many was that these are SPL-only amps intended for 16v operation. Hmm I was interested in buying the 2k5e. I did minimal research and did not find anything alarming. I do not think I will ever need over 5k wrms. Kinda weird to hear chit about Stetsom now. (Now meaning: last year I wanted Stetsom but decided to go a different route) The 2k5e has 4 gauge power and ground. For an amp that can pull upwards of 200 amps. That is serious amateur hour engineering right there...

Fixed at 25hz, it seems. Should be ideal for controlling cone excursion at all frequencies to a point significantly above RMS at my planned box tuning of 32hz, according to WinISD.

I pulled up a bunch of very interesting threads on Stetsom amps on various forums where people were criticizing the design of the amps, and I have to agree... for example, their amps take at most single 1/0 power and ground up to the V 14K2... the 7K2 apparently consists of two amps internally connected by only 4 gauge wire... the conclusion by many was that these are SPL-only amps intended for 16v operation.

Decided to go the easy route with 4 Kicker ZX2500s. SonicElectronix gave me a great deal on the 2011 model. And it does rated power at 2 ohms (which very few amps do), which I need for any 4-amp configuration against these subs. I looked into the Stetsoms and indeed they appear too good to be true, they have a very dodgy reputation.

I was not aware of Stetsom. Two 5k2e bridged would be retarded loud, I'll have to call their dealer tomorrow to see what the price is. Meh, how could I have missed that SSA's store sells Stetsom amps? Also there is a store on eBay selling a shitload of Stetsom amps out of Miami at an even better price. As of now they are currently my first choice. Two 5k2e 1 ohm, each amp on a pair of woofers would work, I think (matching the gains exactly with a voltmeter).

Nice, will call them tomorrow also.

I was not aware of Stetsom. Two 5k2e bridged would be retarded loud, I'll have to call their dealer tomorrow to see what the price is.

Alright how about this: 4 Kicker ZX2500.1. Bridge each pair of amps to 4 ohms, so each pair of amps can run a pair of subs (everything in series, equals 4 ohms per pair of subs). Use a Hifonics Maxx-Link for easy gain control. 10k watts total. Advantage with this setup is that these amps are WIDELY available and thus easily replaceable/repairable. Although not a "sexy" brand like Sundown these amps in particular seem to have a very good reputation. All things being equal I'd like the simplicity of two or even one amp but I just don't see it happening.

Firstly, do you have the electrical system to support this? Yes, I'm going for a quad-alt setup. This will be in a Tahoe that I'm in the process of buying. Plus four D3100s and an S3400 in the front. Electrical will be no problemo... Awesome should be sick. Maybe check out Crescendo. Yeah, the 3KWPs. Also discontinued and sold out. Every high-end amp company seems to be perpetually in the state of having discontinued and sold out all of its current inventory while indefinitely delaying their new amps. It's driving me insane.

Firstly, do you have the electrical system to support this? Yes, I'm going for a quad-alt setup. This will be in a Tahoe that I'm in the process of buying. Plus four D3100s and an S3400 in the front. Electrical will be no problemo...