merzbow

Rob I'm curious why the waterjet-cut brackets turned out to be junk, isn't waterjet cutting supposed to be superior to everything else?

Don't turbos get very hot? I'd be wary of adding so much more heat when you already have added multiple alts.

Mechman is the only other company I'd dream of considering, because of the number of satisfied customers on his forum. But I actually emailed him while researching alts, and asked about a triple or quad-alt bracket, and the response was a flat-out "no", he didn't even bother referring me to anyone who could build a bracket. But even if you just want one alt, he's still a one-man company. Who knows why Iraggi and Tejcurrent decided to disappear? Maybe Mechman is immune to the same temptation but the track record of one-man companies in the high-output alt world is absolutely terrible long-term. If Mechman is smart he will lay out some expansion plans and become a real company, and give DC Power some competition. Choices are always good. But as it is now, DC Power's products are flawless... nobody has complaints about their performance. They are the platinum standard by every measure. Just goddamn wait. Is it really that hard?

Iraggi and tejcurrent were also "one-man" alt companies like Mechman and Signer, and they were "the shit" for about two years, until they started putting out shit product and then disappeared from the scene leaving hundreds of angry customers. Not saying this will be the case with Mechman and Singer, but anyone paying big bucks to a one-man company is taking a huge risk. DC Power isn't going anywhere, from what I hear they have big contracts from military customers and the like. So you have a local alt guy who makes brackets? Good for you! Want a cookie?

This: Took about 8 weeks, and is working awesomely well (I can pound 10k watts at idle on a V8 - 600-700 RPMs - without dropping to battery power). There's a REASON people wait for the products from the smaller companies. In fact, when it comes to alts, you have absolutely no choice. I can give you the name of a company that will build and Fedex you a high-output alt in less than a week, advertised as 300 amps, that will not do even 50 amps at idle. Nobody's stopping you from walking into the nearest car audio shop and buying a 1500 watt JL Audio system for 5 grand.

The answer is yes, call them directly.

Legendary thread is legendary...

Did you buy it from Woofers Etc.? Use the contact form on the website for a quick response. http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/contact-us.html Contact form works well. For the 200.4 -- it has to be repaired under warranty as we don't have any to replace it when. http://www.db-r.com -- repair service request -- tell him it's for warranty -- send copy of original invoice. I used the contact form on the weekend, no response. Yeah it was from woofers etc. I will do as you recommend here. Can you send an email to the guy at dB-r and tell him to repair my amp? He is being a dick and saying he isn't going to touch it unless you contact him. And yes, I sent him the invoice from woofersetc.

Did you buy it from Woofers Etc.? Use the contact form on the website for a quick response. http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/contact-us.html Contact form works well. For the 200.4 -- it has to be repaired under warranty as we don't have any to replace it when. http://www.db-r.com -- repair service request -- tell him it's for warranty -- send copy of original invoice. I used the contact form on the weekend, no response. Yeah it was from woofers etc. I will do as you recommend here.

Someone post or PM me Sundown's phone number... my SAX-200.4D was blown right out of the box and they are not responding to my warranty request over email.

Make absolutely sure you're accounting for the volume of internal bracing (budget up to 0.5cf), port wall, double baffle, and a properly-sized port (which means you need to decide on your desired tuning and port area now to do your calculations). If that pushes net below 5cf, go with the 15 for sure.

Problem seems obvious to me... if you are jacking the gain to 100% and still volume is much lower than you expect, the problem is with the RCA input voltage from your HU to your amp - it's not high enough. Double-check the wiring between the HU and your sub amp, and your HU's settings (sub channel turned on? sub channel level set to low? EQ issues?). Check the voltage on the RCA itself while playing a 0db sine wave at 50hz at 3/4 volume on the HU, it should be anywhere from 1-5v.

Please test the power wire from Powerwerx.com, I'm using that in my install and it's outstanding wire, pure copper and very flexible, yet only $2.50 per foot.

More details after working on my box more... the diameter of the sub as measured from one screwhole to the opposite screwhole is the same, thankfully, so as long as the sub fits in any given cutout, you can match it to any predrilled screwholes. (I imagine if it was otherwise people would have noticed before!) The variance is strictly in how much the basket arms "flare" outwards - that is, if I put one of my subs in a smaller cutout, it "catches" on the arms and won't go in more. Odd, but in my mind, the smaller the cutout the better since that leaves more wood between the cutout edge and the screwholes - more space for tee nuts, less chance of breaking the edge of the MDF, etc. My suggestion - make all the baskets to the 13 3/4" cutout size (or smaller if possible) and mark as such on the website as "minimum cutout". If people want to add wiggle room because they've got shaky hands, they can do so on their own.

I always like to make the smallest cutout possible for extra stability. Most people just assume wiggle room, I guess, and don't bother to measure it exactly.