Blown JL12W6

I finally picked up my Fi Q12 from UPS warehouse after a torturing wait for 2 days. The reason is the package was droped around 5:28 pm last friday at the UPS warehouse and I came there few minutes early hoping that the truck will drop it off but was sadly told that the package is still inside the truck and the warehouse is closing at 5:30 pm. The guy at the UPS asked me.. " Is this sub inlcudes the box already?" LOL! I told him it's just the custom sub from Ficaraudio. He said "I have 2 Alpine Type R's that probably weighs the same as that" lol! Anyways, I finally picked it up today and here's some pics.:

Anyone know where I can purchase a re-coil kit for JL12W6 D2 dual 2 ohms voice coil? JL audio doesn't offer any re-coil kit. Also, is it ok if I use any other brands of recoil kit such as, Fi and any other brands that has the same coil resistance and size? Thanks

Thanks. Do they have website?

1 voice coil is blown but the other 1 is still fine. It still plays but sounds shitty on high volume. Yeah, I think the $$$ will be too much just to repair that woofer. Just shipping alone will cost me an arm and a leg. lol! Thanks

Actually it was dual 4 ohms voice coil, not 2 ohms, but when I measured the coil resistance it reads 3.6 ohms each. Sorry my bad. I hate seeing my JL 12W6 sitting in the corner.. If Fi can replace the magnet and save the basket for recoil and recone kit that would probably work fine and close to Fi specs. The spider and cones will be useless anyways since it will be torn apart. Thanks for the info.

The iphone mic picked up the bass frequencies much cleaner than my shitty sony digi cam. The video sucks though but what matters is the sound. Here's the video clip... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIFmK9BBEIg

Anyone here running about 140 db on a single Fi Q12? What amp and size of box did you use?

So your saying this Fi Q12 couldn't reach 140 db?

Very true. Im a SQ/SPL guy, but it would be nice to surprise a few competitors on a DB drag using a single 12" @ 140 DB. I don't know how accurate my Iphone's SPL meter is but when I measured last time, it only reads around 95-100db. between 35-40 HZ.

Hi guys, I will be building the pre cut enclosures I calculated under RE enclosure calculator but there are a few things I would like to verify. I would like to tune the box between 33-35Hz @ 1.8-2.0 cubic ft. However, I just read that the RE calculator is not accurate. So I searched and found this website Enclosure Volume Calculator (EVC) and made the following calculations: Box Width 23 Inches Box Height 15 Inches Box Depth 15 Inches Material Thickness 0.75 Inches Number of Drivers 1 Total Total Port Volume 258.188 Inches3 -----> see calculations below: Port Width 13.5 Inches Port Height 1.5 Inches Port Depth 12.5 Inches Driver Volume 0.168 Ft3 -----------> From Fi Q12 specs Number of Drivers 1 Total Total Net Volume 1.95 Ft3 I would like to verify with you enclosure experts, if this calculations are ok and will be enough for optimal output of the sub. The sub will be powered @ 1200 watts RMS. Thanks

Alright, I've decided to do aeroport. 4" hole x 11" lenght. Now, does it matter where the port is facing? I want the port to fire upwards and the woofer facing the rear trunk. Thanks

I've been trying different combinations on that WINISD software and I came up with this.... I would like to keep the 1.87 cube box volume so what I did is change: VENT DIAMETER = 0.75" x 12" and my VENT LENGHT = 9" instead of doing the 21.5" BOX = 1.87 cub ft. TUNED = 33.55 HZ NOTE: The 1.5" VENT is the SQUARE PORT WIDTH from RE calculator program then I reduced it to 0.75" on WINISD program. Please let me know if this will work out alright. I would like to keep the box Volume as much as possible at minimum 1.8-2.0 cub ft. tuned to 33-35 HZ without losing interior box volume. Thanks

Yes, the port is 1.5" high. So by changing the port layout to slotted type instead of an "L" shape port, I can add an extra volume inside the box by reducing the length of the first port slot ? I noticed that when I increase the volume of the box, the program reduced the length of the first port slot but the frequency remains at 34 Hz. Thanks

The SQUARE PORT WIDTH of 1.5" that I can't do anything and it will stay the same. The half piece of the "L" shape port which is called SQUARE PORT LENGHT is what I was trying to reduce to either 5" or stay with 15" and make room for extra volume at the same time balancing the tuned frequency. Anyways, Im thinking or either going for Aeroport design or suck it all up and change my dimension to 16" Depth and keep the 23" width just to make room for volume. Any other practical suggestions? Thanks

I finally picked up the pre cut pieces of the box I designed using the RE enclosure calculator, but I would like to verify which port length will be ideal for tuning the 2.0 Cubic ft. box between 30-33 HZ? I know the RE calculator is not really accurate so, here's my box measurements: Width = 23" Depth = 15" Height = 15" Volume = 2.0 Cubic ft. Port width = 1.5" Here's the pic of the box. The length of the port inside the L shape port is what I would like to verify. Now, should I go with 12" or 5" port length? The default RE calculator gave me a tuning freq of 33 HZ using 5" port lenth but it is not accurate. I'll be building the box sometime this weekend so before I put everything together, I would like you enclosure experts to pick the best port length that will be suitable between 30-33 HZ. Thanks.

Yes, I mean the port lenght, sorry this is my first box build. Is the 5" port lenght too small and can damage the sub if the box can be tuned between 35-37hz?

Can I just decrease the port width and tuned higher like 34-37HZ by going with 3"-5" port width? I don't wanna take too much space in my trunk but I would be happy if I can tune this box between 34-37 Hz. Thanks

Good thing I have a few small pieces so I can change the port length and 12.5" lenght of port would be good enough. I can't change the 1.5" port width because it will mess up the other measurments. Thanks.

Thanks, It's just my alternator will be a pain to work on, it's in the tight area of the engine bay.

Here's a few video clip of my Q12 on 1200 Watts rms Kenwood X1200M. Sorry for the shitty digital cam mic. The box is a shitty Bassworkx that I'll be replacing soon when I get a reasonable deal on custom ported box. Let me know what ya'll think.

After tweaking my Gain settings and adjusting the bass knob, I managed to get a slight improvement of the bass output without stressing the sub. I'll do a big 3 upgrade after I replaced my old battery. Here's my latest video clip.

My amp is not power hungry , it just overheats quickly, activating the thermal protection sooner than most high quality amps. The AQ2200 is more stable and will probably take the Q12's 1.6 Ohms resistance than my kenwood. Btw. I lowered the gain to 1/4 for now. Gonna be modifying the used subwoofer box that I bought for $20, and this box is about 2 cub ft. (15"x15"x24"). I just need to verify the ports freq using RE enclosure calculator.

BTW. My electrical system is still stock. I didn't noticed any huge drop in the battery voltage when the bass hits but my amp's thermal protection light went on after a few mins of playing hard hitting bass song. Any good AMP recommendations with the price range around $200-$300? There's a used AQ2200 for sale in my area but Im not sure if it's worth buying it used for $300.

Thats true. The guy I asked about the custom box, insisted of using 1.75 cub ft. tuned at 38 Hz. I sent him the specs of the sub and he didn't replied back.

Yeah, I noticed that when I only played the song "BASS I LOVE YOU" I lowered the gain already.