s_carter

Most likely due to the fact that the subs are mass marketed, they simply cant tell the consumers that they need a port that has 36 inches of area, and needs to be 3 feet long to achieve a decent tune. Besides, most people dont even realize what port compression and air velocity means. 99% of people buying the drivers will not realize what a properly tuned enclosure should sound like, because they are used to shitty prefab designs with next to no port area and decent airspace...

I really hate to modify my amp, since it is still under warranty, but I hate having it 10 hertz SSF limited more. I haven't been able to find any service manuals or schematics for it, yet, and I have been looking. I would like to be able to keep the SSF, but have it so that with the pot turned all the way counter clockwise, its disabled, instead of set to 10 hertz. Here are the pics of the board. The SSF pot is the second to the left. Strange, the board says 15hz-40hz next to the pot, yet the cover, manual and specs says 10. Most likely since the boards are used in many other amps as well. The pots are B20K, except for the SSF and LP, which are B50K's. Thanks for the help and your time, bud!

Giving them more airspace and tuning lower will give you louder lower bass, but you will sacrifice a bit on the termlab to get them to hit harder on lows. try 28 hertz tuning.

oh you were talking about having them cut the wood for you, i thought you meant an off the shelf blade, haha, mah bad.

awesome deal dude! that will help things along quite a bit! take lots of build pics along the way.

they should have had a nice 40 or 50 tooth blade there, that doesn't make any sense to me.... I make all my cuts with a straightedge and a circular saw with a 40 tooth blade kinda like this one. works great!

i use a 1/16 inch but for predrilling the holes, and then I use elmers or titebond wood glue. you can also go with pl premium, but it is more expensive, and a bit messier.

Hoping to find a 21" basket and cone/surround for a frankensub I am looking to build, I was wondering what you had to bolt to a treo motor with a 4" coil, 6 on 5" bolt pattern, and what it would run me? I really wanted to go 22" but there just arent any parts available right now. Thanks for your time guys! Hope you have a warm and safe Christmas!

Damn that thing looks nasty!

I think you will be better off cutting them separately, your jigsaw will probably be a bit overwhelmed trying to cut through 1.5" MDF.

You will have more wood to bite into and grip with 2 layers, I'm not a huge fan on double baffling a box, just so the driver can be flush mounted, that defeats the advantage it offers. I'm all about reliability/durability first, and cosmetics last. T-nuts are picky beasts, they usually tend to rip themselves out of the wood after removing and installing the speaker a few times, in my experience. There are a few styles of t-nuts that do work rather well, but they are expensive, and I haven't been able to find them lately. Maybe some body else can chime in and recommend some for you.... If you go with 1.5 inch thick baffle, just use screws, it will be more than enough, unless the screw breaks. I have had a few break with my 18's, but I have never had one back out or rip out of the wood. I just need to get higher grade screws.

Thats what 90 percent of people do in the HT forums when building a sub, except they buy their pillows at walmart. I say, fuck walmart, they are killing this country quicker than a plague.

go to goodwill or the salvation army, and pick up a few pillows to stuff in the enclosure, about 4-6 should work nicely for a 10 cube enclosure. super cheap and your recycling something that most people wont buy. shouldnt be more than 5 bucks there.

I usually use Drywall screws for the box, they are super cheap and grip very well. As for the filling, I try to keep it around 1/2 pound per cubic foot.

No, I'm not trying to recone it, I just looking for parts to build it...

Well, I'm only using a 3 inch coil for the 18. What would one of those cost shipped to Portland?

Needing a basket, as the title shows. I was wondering if you two could hook me up with something for an experiment that a friend and I are looking to undertake. I need a basket that will bolt to any of the listed motors, we have a few right now, there's a Treo SSX 534 ounce, 12" motor with a 3" coil, and a Treo 582 ounce 18" motor with a 4" coil, then we have 2 RF power series motors that are old school- like the HX2's that have 4'' coils, and we have an Orion HCCA motor with a 3'' coil. Was hoping maybe I could get an 18" or a 22" basket to play with? Let me know if you guys can help me! Got any parts for the 22" lineup machined yet? I would be happy to test some of them out for you guys! Sam

Thats not really the point, not looking to gain anything for my system at this point. I am just building a few frankensubs with a friend, and I already own two 18's, so we wanted to go bigger. But I will end up building a of couple of 18's out of some of these motors we have anyway, since they are only 3" coils... Are those baskets the same as whats in my SSD's? What are the spider landing measurements? And, the biggest question of the day, whats it worth to you?

Ah, man, that is a bummer! let me know when you start pre ordering the 22's, I want to be one of the first in line. I'm loving the X12's you sent my way, and I havent even put any power to them yet. But they sure do look the part. I am going to see what I can do about some 21" parts before I jump the gun on some 18's... but thank you guys for the response!

I hear that ! its a journey, but it should be a fun one, even if it turns out terribly...

Well I am trying to source all the parts out now, if I cant buy any of the them, I guess I can always have something custom made for it.

The Treo motors originally use TCS baskets with a 6 bolt pattern on a 5 inch spacing, I believe. Looks like the others are the same, except for the Orion motor. Still trying to get that one figured out, but it is going to be used for a later project, I think. Going with the larger 4" Treo motor, to begin with, what kind of basket options are there? I'd really like to source some parts for a 22", or a 21" if that's not possible yet...

OK, I will have my buddy measure out the center to center spacing, and bolt pattern on the motors, and get them posted up here when I hear back from him.

At 10 cubes, with a tune of 22 hertz, I think you will be literally blown away when you crank that beast up on some super low stuff, with movies with a lot of LFE, or songs like "the bass will destroy you". I know I love it on my setup. Did you order the sub and amp already?

yeah 10 cubes is a monster!