BASSnoob

There is nothing wrong with CCA, it can handle slightly less than fully copper i know the CCA from Knukonceptz can handle 300 amps, and the actual copper can handle 300+. but unless you're running extreme amounts of power, you're amplifier WILL not be pulling 300 amps constantly. the downside to CCA it is slightly less flexiable when very cold. but i've used CCA for almost everything in my car. awesome will def look into CCA i live in arizona so i dont think it will get cold anytime soon.. we are in summer.. 100+ degrees lol

a few links that may help: Charging systems The Big 3 Battery Isolators Sizing batteries to match your audio system The ratio of power to volume explained There's no real way to tell the amount of power your amplifier is supplying based on the volume or bass knob, since a "1200 watt" amp is rated by the manufacturer with a resistive load on a test bench with a stable power supply and a full spectrum pink noise test tone input at full output, whereas you are using the amp with a dynamic input source, in a car cabin subject to factors like cabin gain and transfer function with a subwoofer that's a reactive, inductive load in a box subject to impedance rise, while the speaker itself varies in impedance based on the frequency it's producing, and where half the audible volume from full output is equal to a tenfold drop in power output, and so forth.. you get the idea. The actual power output of an amplifier in a car is typically nowhere even remotely near what it's rated power is on the amplifier case. Also of note, you shouldn't really be relying on batteries to power the audio system when the engine is running. As long as your alternator puts out a higher voltage than the batteries, it's the alternator's job to supply current. If the alternator isn't large enough to accomplish this task, then it needs to be upgraded. Good luck! AAH OK im running 110 amps stock alternator. so should i get bigger alternator then?? As said up above do the big 3 upgrade and then check your voltage drop with a dmm and go from there... AH OK.. FOR THE BIG 3 I HAVE 4 GAUGE ROCKFORD FOSGATE POWER WIRE 20 FEET.. WOULD THAT WORK?.. OR SHOULD EVERYTHNG RUN IN 0 GAUGE?? I JUST DONT HAVE OVER 200 DOLLERS TO SPEND I LOOKED AROUND EBAY AND STINGER PRO O GAUGE IS SELLING FOR 3.75 A FOOT IF I GET 50 FEET OF THAT ITS OVER 200 DOLLERS..

a few links that may help: Charging systems The Big 3 Battery Isolators Sizing batteries to match your audio system The ratio of power to volume explained There's no real way to tell the amount of power your amplifier is supplying based on the volume or bass knob, since a "1200 watt" amp is rated by the manufacturer with a resistive load on a test bench with a stable power supply and a full spectrum pink noise test tone input at full output, whereas you are using the amp with a dynamic input source, in a car cabin subject to factors like cabin gain and transfer function with a subwoofer that's a reactive, inductive load in a box subject to impedance rise, while the speaker itself varies in impedance based on the frequency it's producing, and where half the audible volume from full output is equal to a tenfold drop in power output, and so forth.. you get the idea. The actual power output of an amplifier in a car is typically nowhere even remotely near what it's rated power is on the amplifier case. Also of note, you shouldn't really be relying on batteries to power the audio system when the engine is running. As long as your alternator puts out a higher voltage than the batteries, it's the alternator's job to supply current. If the alternator isn't large enough to accomplish this task, then it needs to be upgraded. Good luck! AAH OK im running 110 amps stock alternator. so should i get bigger alternator then?? As said up above do the big 3 upgrade and then check your voltage drop with a dmm and go from there... AH OK.. FOR THE BIG 3 I HAVE 4 GAUGE ROCKFORD FOSGATE POWER WIRE 20 FEET.. WOULD THAT WORK?.. OR SHOULD EVERYTHNG RUN IN 0 GAUGE?? I JUST DONT HAVE OVER 200 DOLLERS TO SPEND I LOOKED AROUND EBAY AND STINGER PRO O GAUGE IS SELLING FOR 3.75 A FOOT IF I GET 50 FEET OF THAT ITS OVER 200 DOLLERS..

a few links that may help: Charging systems The Big 3 Battery Isolators Sizing batteries to match your audio system The ratio of power to volume explained There's no real way to tell the amount of power your amplifier is supplying based on the volume or bass knob, since a "1200 watt" amp is rated by the manufacturer with a resistive load on a test bench with a stable power supply and a full spectrum pink noise test tone input at full output, whereas you are using the amp with a dynamic input source, in a car cabin subject to factors like cabin gain and transfer function with a subwoofer that's a reactive, inductive load in a box subject to impedance rise, while the speaker itself varies in impedance based on the frequency it's producing, and where half the audible volume from full output is equal to a tenfold drop in power output, and so forth.. you get the idea. The actual power output of an amplifier in a car is typically nowhere even remotely near what it's rated power is on the amplifier case. Also of note, you shouldn't really be relying on batteries to power the audio system when the engine is running. As long as your alternator puts out a higher voltage than the batteries, it's the alternator's job to supply current. If the alternator isn't large enough to accomplish this task, then it needs to be upgraded. Good luck! AAH OK im running 110 amps stock alternator. so should i get bigger alternator then??

AAH OK YES I NEED TO DO THE BIG 3.. NO I HAVE NOT CHECKED.. DO YOU THINK I SHOULD GET A HIGH VOLTAGE ALTERNATOR?? ALSO.. HOW DOES THAT HAPPEN WHEN IM RUNNING 2 BATTERIES AT 4 OHMS AKA 600-800 WATTS??

just one whole 21 in there.. lol

i got an FI Q 15 with the additional 500 rms option.. and it hits hard..fills up my whole car with bass.. i have it on a sealed box 2.3 cubic feet per sub ,subs facing the trunk.. going to buy another the 15 was sooooo heavy and i lift weights im over 200lbs my self.. i can easy curl 45pound dumbbells and this 15 said only weight 37lbs.. i say double that.. lol the bottom is very heavy.. wonder how much metal they use on it and how much actual magnet there is..

ok so i turned down the bass boost and turned up th input sensetivity to about 90 percent.. i can barely hear anything.. what is up with that??

So i bought the fi q fully loaded with cooling option and so it can handle an additional 500 wrms but my subwoofer is geting hot after runing it for 20 minutes. its dual 2 ohms voice coils and its wired to amp at 4 ohms my deck has out puts of 2.5 volts here is image of how my amp is set the volt input sensetiviy got moved by the bass.. its set to 1-2 volts. the subwoofer is on a 2.3cubic foot box.. what could be getting it hot?? i only use bass knob that came with it i dont even go pass mid bass knob and at the end of the ride the amp is a little warm but not as warm as the subwoofer.. im scared to burn it.. is my amp set right??

STOCK everythingn except an extra battery on back and 0 gauge power wire and 0 ground wire.. here are the amps specs..also if i turn down the bass boost i cant hear ish when i turn it up.. # Class D Rubicon Mono Channel Amplifier # RMS Power: 1 x 1700 Watts @ 2 Ohm # RMS Power: 1 x 2500 Watts @ 1 Ohm # THD: 0.50% # Frequency Response: 15Hz - 150KHz # S/N: 95dB # Damping Factor: >350 # Sensitivity: 100mV - 2V or 2V - 8V # Low Pass Filter: 50Hz - 150Hz @ 12dB # Bass Boost: 0- 18dB @ 45Hz # Subsonic Filter: 10 - 40Hz @12dB # Phase Control: 180 # Dash Mounted Remote Gain Control

all i can say is your guys subs are awesome running an FI Q 2 ohm dual on soundstream rubicon 2500 and it bumps

ok my head unit is 2.5 volts my amplifier has a switch to set between 1-2volts and to the right it says 2to8volts.. i have it turned to the left would that be right?? and my input level is about 70 percent turned up.. becuase any lower and the signal dissapears.. Can you show me a picture of the settings on the amp? And which input level? here it is.. the subwoofer is wired at 4 ohms..box is sealed 2.3cubic feet per sub. just noticed the imput sensetivity got switched.. hehehehe the bass moved it..

ok so the amp set up i have is a soundstream rubicon 2500 running to 1 fi q 15 1500 rms sub. i have the sub wired this way from amp.. negative to negative positive to positive. and then on the other side i have positive to negative.. is that a 4 ohm wiring?? my amp is only 1 and 2 ohm stable.. is it ok for my subwoofer to be wired that way?? my imput level is up to about 80% and my bass knob i dont go pass half the volume. the only reason why my imput level is up that high was becuase when tunning it it was at the only level that it picked up good bass.. will this kill my sub??? the FI Q has all the bells and whistles.. its fully upgraded.. Class D Rubicon Mono Channel Amplifier RMS Power: 1 x 1700 Watts @ 2 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 2500 Watts @ 1 Ohm THD: 0.50% Frequency Response: 15Hz - 150KHz S/N: 95dB Damping Factor: >350 Sensitivity: 100mV - 2V or 2V - 8V Low Pass Filter: 50Hz - 150Hz @ 12dB Bass Boost: 0- 18dB @ 45Hz Subsonic Filter: 10 - 40Hz @12dB Phase Control: 180

ok my head unit is 2.5 volts my amplifier has a switch to set between 1-2volts and to the right it says 2to8volts.. i have it turned to the left would that be right?? and my input level is about 70 percent turned up.. becuase any lower and the signal dissapears..

Probably because you're likely clipping the amp with too high of a gain or bass boost, which sends more power than 900 watts to the sub. At full clip it could be near double that. Also, moving to an Fi section since this is just a question, no hello. welll the FI Q i bout is fully upgraded.. dont know how to explain.. bought the upgrade so it could handle an additional 500 rms watts.. so the sub should be good for 1500 wrms so the sub should be good right even if i turn the bass knob that came with the amplier all the way up right?? Not if your clipping the signal, then no it won't be great. what do you mean by clipping the signal?? sorry im "Clipping is a form of waveform distortion that occurs when an amplifier is overdriven and attempts to deliver an output voltage or current beyond its maximum power capability. Driving an amplifier into clipping may cause it to put out power in excess of its published ratings" OH OK.. DO YOU THINK I COULD DO THAT to a soundstream rubicon rated at 2500 rms at 1 ohm? if i install another subwoofer and turn the bass knob all the way up?? just asking some one with more experience before i go out and try it myself and blow out an amp or the subs

Probably because you're likely clipping the amp with too high of a gain or bass boost, which sends more power than 900 watts to the sub. At full clip it could be near double that. Also, moving to an Fi section since this is just a question, no hello. welll the FI Q i bout is fully upgraded.. dont know how to explain.. bought the upgrade so it could handle an additional 500 rms watts.. so the sub should be good for 1500 wrms so the sub should be good right even if i turn the bass knob that came with the amplier all the way up right?? Not if your clipping the signal, then no it won't be great. what do you mean by clipping the signal?? sorry im

im not using any bass boost on the head unit just the bass knob it came with.. i ocassionally turn it up.. when i want to feel the bass hitting my chest.. lol

Probably because you're likely clipping the amp with too high of a gain or bass boost, which sends more power than 900 watts to the sub. At full clip it could be near double that. Also, moving to an Fi section since this is just a question, no hello. welll the FI Q i bout is fully upgraded.. dont know how to explain.. bought the upgrade so it could handle an additional 500 rms watts.. so the sub should be good for 1500 wrms so the sub should be good right even if i turn the bass knob that came with the amplier all the way up right??

i dont know exacly what deck it is.. it came with the car its a jvc same specs but not the same.. JVC KW-XR810 In-Dash Double DIN Car Stereo w/ Bluetooth this is the newer version with out the subwoofer outputs. then why do i feel my subwoofer getting hot if its only set up for 900 watts??

the second one.. im just a bass noob dont want to kill my amp and sub.. i also have an extra battery on back..

sorry its a dual 2 ohm voice coil..

i got 2 15 fi q i got a subwoofer box with the front slanted.. will it make a difference in sound?? i got 2.3cubic feet per sub on the box.. on a 2005 nissan altima running a soundstream rubicon 2500 with kinetik hc600 and rockford fosgate 0 gauge amp kit.. the box is on its way and im worried about will the slant make a sound difference will it decrease the sound quality?? ill be facing the subs towards the trunk away from me. well its in the building process..i can send an email and tell the builder to make it square if it makes a difference..

i just bought the FI Q with all the options.. especially since it gets hot out here in arizona.. ive never spent so much on a sub $345 a peace ooh my.. i hope they are worth it.

hey im new to the bass world.. just wanted to say hello have a question for you guys.. what subs would be good to run with a soundstream rubicon 2500 at 1 ohm.. i was thinking of running 2 15 inch fi Q,s but the sales people told me the subs would prob blow out becuase of the power of the amp.. I have a dual 2.31 cubic feet box per box. sealed.. i was wondering what other subs are my options bedsides the fi q in sealed box. thanks guys

how about the 15 INCH ASCENDANT HAVOC? THEY ARE BY THE SAME COMPANY BUT CAN HANDLE MORE POWER.. DO YOU THINK THOSE ARE BETTER THEN THE FI Q? sorry to ask so many questions its just that i want to have subs that will last me a year or so..