mrbojang

Damn you and your mind tricks.

I or A

This.

Note to self: watch out for grannies in the middle of the road. they make a mess of your windshield. don't check out the chick with the nice rack, you might hit a kid and a father.. thanks for the reminder! also, whenever I drive my main focus is not hitting anything and getting away from horrible drivers...some of the things on this video are straight up idiotic. side swiping pedestrians? rear ending a car at a stop sign? geeze.

That's what I keep reading but then some people are saying a tone at 1hz under tuning at full power could cause over excursion and all that nasty stuff? The subs are under powered so I would think it wouldn't matter anyway.. Would it beideal to get a 28hz test tone and setting it that way?

I'm going to be posting random pictures of my installation progress here, and keeping notes of what I have\still need. Excuse the brevity! What I have installed currently: Optima yellow top 4awg from the hood to the rear directed 1200/6 amplifier 2x orion p10d4 (old model subs\amp) stock speakers stock hu - using a line out converter What I have but not installed: mbquart pvi216 component set - most likely will be replaced later 1x sae-1200d 1x sax-125.2 What I still need to purchase: some pioneer HU with, steering wheel controls, onstar, dashkit another sae-1200d some good subs (4xsa-10s? not sure yet.) another battery HO alt (200amp+) 0awg wire, big 3 Ok so that's most of it..Now that I got that out of the way..This is what I did tonight: Sealed the rear vents in my truck. First time using spray on foam, I think it turned out pretty well..Got rid of the rattling. Installed a stinger volt meter: slightly crooked, but good enough i suppose... getting ready to hook up to the amp and test my voltages for tuning the stinger unit... turned out it was tuned fine right off the bat. sweet. testing before i throw it in the dash. it's crimped tight..i really need heat shrink wrap and a hot air gun.. All set!! it's pretty bright, need to tint it later... Also, some battle wounds struggling with routing the wires under the dash: (yeah, i'll cut my nails)

Subs are wired up and screwed in. Sounds pretty solid, gains are set real low and SSF isn't set properly currently. Pics and videos tomorrow. HO Alt is being put in then and the engine block to frame ground. I'd post some pics and whatnot now but i'm drenched in sweat. I swear I just lost 10lbs in water weight in 2 hours...Damn heat.

I've used cheap $10 RCA's from radioshack without a problem. I think the only real variance in RCA cables is shielding\twisted pair, you might get some ground feedback\distorted signals but I doubt it..

Big update...Everything is pretty much wired up except the six sa-10's, engine block to ground frame and my new alternator...Should all be setup by saturday. Subs wired tonight, alternator put in tomorrow... Pics:

Do pretty much all head units send out a clipped signal at 3/4 volume? I remember reading something about 3/4 volume and never pushing the head unit to 100% volume... Also, if that's the case why don't manufacturers limit how much you can crank it (if possible?)

Damn. I wish I still had an oscilloscope. :|

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUJMTH2MQO4 this is our family friends dog and ours...he's acouple years older.

Nevermind..I got it.

So awhile ago I had a battery isolator installed on my tahoe and I'd like to remove it...It's bolted onto the plastic fuse housing, as in inside the fuse housing there's nuts securing the bolts... Any idea how to get to those nuts so I can remove it and put a fuse holder there instead? Thanks

Hey guys, I'm almost done with my audio install on my 2006 tahoe...The total added weight comes out to around 400lbs. I have about 200lbs of stuff installed so far. The weight is distributed pretty evenly, batteries on each side, enclosure centered.. Well the problem is my 2006 Tahoe is handling worse, and performs worse..(To be expected). Stock the rear is lifted 1.5" or so compared to the front...Now it's about even. The suspension feels stiff, brakes are a bit weaker, can't take turns and peel out as easily\comfortably. I'm trying to figure out what I can or need to do to get it to perform closer to stock. Doesn't have to be 100% how it was, but a bit better would be nice.. As far as the engine I'm going to chip it and do intake... I have no clue about suspension and brakes. I'd like the suspension and handling to be a bit loser. What would be a good thing to do, that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? Thanks.

Eagerly awaiting an update. Nearly 3 years later..

Had yours done locally or blackbear takes forever to ship?

I've read up on the blackbear chips, was thinking of going with them...Going to order those airbags..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AIR-60729 Would I need those in the front also, or can I just throw those in the back? Also, I'm thinking of ditching the spare tire under the back..

If anything I wouldn't mind dropping the front and rear an inch...I was reading about those airlift bags, think that's a good route to go? They just sit under the shocks, and you fill them once..Right? I don't expect to perform like a track car, but a bit closer to stock would be nice...I like to be able to get away from the old people\horrible drivers. I suppose I could just get them to want to stay away from me with the 3000+ watts in the back, but I don't want to be that much of a nuisance..

Argent Audio's enclosure arrived in one piece yesterday... Going to set everything up tonight, just need to wait on the alternator...I'm thinking sometime next week..

The fire inspector must love you guys! j/k.

I agree 120%. Jacob is awesome. He's helped me out too!

So extremely jealous, how much does a little pup like yours go for? Sorry. Just now seeing this...We paid $3,500 for him, an additional $1,500 for house training, basic commands\obedience...He came straight from the czech republic. He's going to get bite training\personal protection training when he's a bit older..

Me too man. Apparently there are no plans for one.