007

Regarding the choice on 4-spoke Eclipse basket. I'm not sure who is supplying them to you, but we designed that basket in 2001 and we have a 14 year patent on it. I'll be happy to give you the patent # if you like, but the problem is that this is not a "generic" basket. We paid over $20,000 to have the tool made and we really don't like it when other people use our baskets and make it seem generic. Eclipse, one of our bigger customers and they hold a license for this basket. They are the only company by contract who gets the rights to use this basket for car audio, and we supply them. We legally can not allow anyone to use this frame, or the 6-spoke 15" and 18" for that matter. Thank you for understanding. If could please tell me who supplies you with the frame, I would greatly appreciate it. Kyle TC Sounds

I'm not sure I understood all of that, but COOL! TL and m3's are you talking about acura's and BMW's?

Don't bother with teh names, just kick the ass! =D

We're really sorry bout that Mike, our vender got a chit storm for this. It takes over 2 months to re-order the damn things.

Aint that the truth, considering that is costs about $10,000 for a well made casting tool (per driver, per size) Its no wonder why people just opt for the off the shelf 12-spoke. So for a 10, 12,15 and 18

it doest matter which way you wire it, red to red, or red to black. All that matters is if you wire it in parallel or series. Also when you measure it, try not to move the cone because that will throw off the resistance measurement. My moving the coil through the magnet by hand you actually invoke current in the coil. Sort of like a reverse speaker, you

You'll have to wait a few weeks and find out...

Great tip wit the battery thing, we do this at work a lot. I can't believe we let that out the door, but it happens. We must soldered the terminals on the wrong side of eachother. No harm done, but the colors are backwards from your other speaker. Its easy to do because the voice coils are not color coated or anything, and neither are the spider leads so its a matter keep the red on the left and black on the right. I'm guessing in your case it was reversed? In anycase, the the red wire should goto the left ternimal adn the black to the right. MAke sure you have it like that on both subwoofers. Right now you either have it like that or reversed. If if its reversed, your subwoofers will be out of phase with your car speakers. Not a huge deal but it will cause a bit of a gap in the crossover. So double check! Again, I'm really sorry about that, we shouldnt fudge up like that period!

Ya, these subs are totally underrated, I hope eclipse steps the marketing. but they have done well with everything else so I have faith.

I am curious the differences between the 8200, RL-s, TC 4Hp <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Rl-s is off the 3HP I think, but its pretty much its own deal. Its has the same 3" diam vc as the SW8000 and SW8200 but its a longer VC for more Bl, hence the use of the quad magnets. the TC 4HP is our high end subwoofer platform. 4"vc and 500 ounce ferrite motor very expensive. The 4hp

Thoes specs are kinda skewed, but its because of the LM. I'm really not too sure. but anyway, the fs is 20hz, not 16.

small sealed is ideal.

A little cleaner than the SS LMT because of the surround and 1 less spider, but not quite the excursion due to shorter coil, it will still pull 3" peak to peak if you push it. Its definitely in the category of a LSQ driver and certainly is the best LSQ driver I have come across. Sounds a lot better than a 12W7, and the head to head tests I did on a klippel confirmed that.

Sealed is typically less efficient, and the reason it takes more power is because the air inside the box acts as a spring because it has no where to go when you push or pull the diaphragm. try pushing a syringe while plugging the end. Same idea. It requires more power to move the driver. How can it take more power? Well, the driver now has to do more work because it has an extra force pushing and pulling on it. Power is typically limited by the suspension (max power) and RMS is typically how fast the voice coil can cool and take on a continuous amount of power. does that help or just confuse you? Sorry, im tired.

for home audio: Klispch Wisdom Audio Krell Definitive Energy / Mirage / API Rockets / Onix SVS Sunfire Rythmic Soundspliter for pro audio: Bassmax Worxaudio JBL Meyer for car audio: Eclipse Soundsplinter favorite company: TC Sounds

well said, btw, is new RE XXX that really tall black subwoofer with yellow spider and a half dome poll cap?

lets me see if I can shed some light here. The RLp's are rated at what? 500 watts? They can and have been proven to take more. It is true that newbie

with 29hz tuning frequency and that box size with that port area, I take it the lenght of your port is 30" in each subwoofer Is that the case?

RLp's are a step up from W7's as far as quality goes imo. The W7's have a massive surround that adds a lot of distortion. The W7's will play a bit louder than a RLp inch for inch (of course, the 15 rlp will kill the 12w7 for SPL and it will dig a lot deeper). If you want to out do the W7's get teh RLs, it will actaully play louder and best it with ease for qulaity. It also has a high roll surround which allows maxium cone area and maxium travel. Its an ideal surround for SPL + quality.

You can run the dual RL-s's in parallel and get the DCR below 2 ohms. I don't know anything about the XXX's, but the RL-'s hold the title for king of low distortion, so they can go about 6dB higher than a non linear driver of equal design at the same tolerance of THD. Also because of the high surround, they have a very high xmax and can be overdriven pretty darn far too, almost 4" peak to peak.

It is its own custom motor. The RL-s's will sound the cleanest.

Just paint it. I'm relly not sure which paint to use to be honest, but that's what I would try. Look for some metal spray paints.

Just saying hi, and I hope everyone enjoys the subs. -Kyle