lordaoshi

just to add some insight, i just got done installing 2 15 inch AA havocs each receiving ahout 1500 w rms from 2 rockford fosgate t1500-1bd's and i went SEALED (about 2.3 per sub) in my subaru impreza outback (hatchback) my friend josh got 2 identical subs ( we got a lower price by buying 4 of teh same sub, thanks defiant audio) josh went ported in the back of his jeep grand cherokee, 4.5 per sub tuned at 33 hz, each is receiving 1200 rms from a saz-1200d both have adequate electrical upgrades, both installs subs firing up (his ports are up too) my impreza has 2 layers of second skin for the roof and one layer on the hatch the cherokee is completely undeadened the sound quality on both builds is absolutely phenominal, the havocs are incredible no matter which route you go, but my sealed havocs sound a bit sharper whith quick bass hits, and it sounds really natural, there is still a slight strong spot around 32 -34 hz which i guess is the butter zone for those subs in my enclosure, and also probably the fs for my car, and where the subs are just loudest, but it isn't really incredibly noticeable unless you are playing sweeps to listen for them i haven't metered them yet, but they are damn loud. i haven't really been able to bottom teh subs out frequency wise in my install, i have done tone sweeps all over the low frequencies, and i can hit down to about 22hz before it just sounds like a helicopter) this thing gets DEEP i can play pretty much any chopped and screwed song out there, and about all slowed songs that stay in the audible range. i can also do "cracked window hairtricks" meainign i can do hairtricks with only the drivers window open half way, that being said, josh's install is way louder. there is an incredible difference in volume between the two vehicles the ported box really makes a difference, but i still prefer my own, because though his is louder his range seems really limited, the subs sound incredible from maybe 29-48hz but outside that range they become really lackluster. he also has a MASSIVE volume spike at around 32-38 hz, the volume feels like it more then doubles between 40 and 35, but below 30 there is incredibly steep roll off, he can't really hit anything accurately below 28 hz ( the low note in put on is still audible, but very sloppy) we are trying to find someone local with a TL so we can get some numbers up to back this up, i will be posting pics of my own car in the build logs section once it gets back from being detailed and reparied so i can get a really nice final completion photo i hope it isn't too late for this info to be helpful

that was the plan, the rear speakers are just to balance out the sound because all i have in the back is subs and if there isn't SOMETHING back there it feels really unnatural putting the alpines on the amp and the rears on the head unit

okay so i have done a search on this all over, and i did find one post about someone who only used the front channels and then connects the rear channels directly, but kept the fader set to the front, but this just sounds like a bad idea what i want to do is amp my front speakers (alpine type r components), but leave my rear speakers on the head unit's power (alpine sps-400's) i just bought a rockford fosgate t400-2 off a friend on the cheap so i was planning to use that (type r's with only 17 watts have absolutely zero bass) head unit is sony-gt240 ( i know sony isn't that great, but the sound quality is just as good to me as it is on some friends alpines and pioneer head units. so it is good enough for me.) how do i wire the head unit to only use 2 channels? do i just not connect the speakers off the channels i don't want? completing the circuit seems counter intuitive because i assume that would fry the head unit any help at all would be greatly appreciated whether it be links or personal experiences

thank you, i was hoping that was all i had to do but everywhere i read just danced around the actual wiring of using only 2 channels

bump

has anyone heard the ascendant audio havoc in a sealed enclosure? i am getting 2 aa havoc 15's (d2) in a sealed enclosure with roughly 2.4 ft^3 per sub after all displacements each will have it's own rf t1500-1bd they will be firing upwards in my subaru impreza outback sport (hatchback) rewound 160 amp alt and 3 xspower d5100 batts second skin on hatch, roof, and trunk floor i have already ordered them from defiant audio and the suspense is killing me coming up from 2 ported infinity reference 1252w's ( one has a cracked cone and sounds terrible) on a single t1500-1bd any guesses on what kinda tl scores i could get with these? i was hoping for at least 140 while still maintaining good sound quality,

I will keep looking around, in the meantime the sony cdx-gt240 should do fine

Hello i am relatively new here and was hoping to gain from the experience of some other members i am currently using a Sony CDX-GT340 and it sounds okay, but i was told the sound quality could be much much better. i am running alpine type r 6.5 components in the front and pioneer 4 inch (3 way) coaxials in the rear doors i am hoping to run these speakers off the head unit for a bit longer and then i will amp them my subwoofers are 2 15 inch fi Q's in a sealed box each receiving ~1200-1300 watts from it's own rockford fosgate t1500-1bd (currently off a y splitter of the rear channel) (electrical system has been upgraded significantly to account for this i don't want a touchscreen type receiver,and don't really need dvd playback, i plan to use my ipod through the aux. input for i really like the feel of a single din with a knob and (i also might consider adding an equalizer later in the second unused din) since i plan to power the system with this i would like some decent rms wattage, like i saw many of the lower tier kenwoods had 22watts rms, also i am new to the concept of preout voltages, but my amp's gains can be set for up to 8v i would like to have at least 2 sets of rca outputs if not 3 (1 for future door speakers amp, and 2 for subs if possible, but i could still use the y splitters off just one if that can't be done) my budget is 100-200 but if it is really necessary i can go higher. any suggestions or guidelines for looking at new decks would be greatly appreciated, thank you

Like just anything? Or any guidlines for which models fronlm them?

Well i have done all spl in the past so i guess i am after a more ""SQL"" build i still like it loud, but i want it to sound GOOD loud not like bean night at a fat camp i will accept however loud it may be but i i can break 140db with a sealed box i will feel like i didnt make any really huge sacrifices

I have been searching all over the internet to find out about qts (never even heard of it before i was looking into Q's this isn't my first system, i just never accounted for it before. it looks to me like it is highly dependant on what you are doing fi q 15's have the cooling and spider upgrade options, that is it i am going for sound quality with this build, dual fi Q 15 in a sealed enclosure measuring ~ 2.3 ft^3 per sub (after displacement and bracing of course) each sub will have it's own rockford fosgate t-1500-1bd giving them ~1350watts @ 2 ohms (already had one and just bought a second off a friend, who said headroom was a bad thing) they will be in the back of my subaru impreza outback sport hitting upwards (hatchback) plenty of power from the vehicle 250+ amp ho alternator and 2 xspower d2700 batteries (leftover from before i got the new alternator) all wire is 0awg excluding the distribution block which feeds 4 awg to each amp i mainly listen to techno, rock, metal,rap, and hip hop will the heat rings affect SQ if i get them? and also will this system sound better with high or low QTS? i read here that the high qts was for sealed only, so that's me. what does qts even mean? please any information helps for either topic,

i don't have room to build a big ported enclosure, my useable trunk volume for teh box is only about 6^ft total, i had bad experience with ported subs before, maybe they were tuned too high but they were so peaky i was constantly adjusting the volume when listening to songs that had shifting bass it was custom built and tuned to 33 hz and and anything below 30 couldn't be heard unless you head your ear to the woofer, and anything above 50 sounded just terrible. anything between there was clean and loud though.

i think they will work out great, i think my front stage already sounds amazing, alpine type x pro compontents in the front , rf p2 punch 8's in the backdoors along with 5.25 type r coaxials. all the alpines are off a t400-4 the punch 8's share a t500-1bd i am hoping the 15's will cover the lows better then my older ported infinity 1252rw's did. and some days i like the bass to drown everything else out, that's when i make with my punch equalizer

thank you so much bromo, i couldn't find anythign at all about T/S parameters that wasn't a forum discussion, so i will deffinitely go with the high Qts, option. everywhere else i read just commented on " how tight the suspension is" that has cleared up so many things for me , i find it so hard to wade through what people say on other forums now regarding the heat ring. according to the Q enclosure recommendations thread pinned in this forum. it lets it play a little higher, i have rf punch 8's in my rear doors, and then about every other size available, 6.5's 5.25's and then assorted tweeters. if the heat ring doesn't do anything significant below about 60 hz where the low pass of the 8's kicks in then i will most assuredly pass the 15's are solely to make the bass deep, rich, and loud. i am hoping to at least get 140 db since a single q 15 ported can do 145 i am hoping two sealed can at least break 140. any thoughts?

I want to get a a pair of Fi ssd 15's and i am building a custom sealed enclosure for them, fi suggests between 1.5 and 2.5 cu ft per woofer, does this mean that 2 feet would be the ideal? this is my first time designing my own encosure and i would like to have the optimum internal space. would a 2.5 ft^3 make them hit any deeper or will they sound better with 2ft^3 (these volumes are AFTER displacement of course) i am really going for a sq build here please do not try to talk me up to the Q,, i am sticking with ssd's with the bp power upgrade the standard coils that being said i would love to be able to hit the low note in "put on" with this setup i am not incredibly worried about a huge spl number as long as it rattles my brain a bit win-isd confirms the bigger box theory but i wanted a little human input as well more details about my system if it would help wiring is more then capable, 2 powerbastard HO alternators (~250a each at 2k rpm) 1/0 gauge wiring of course for big 3 3 total xs power batteries dynamat trunk and ceiling (overkill for this system but i have bigger plans for the car in the future in the future and they actually only put out about 110 amps at idle so 2 gives me really steady power) plenty of amp power for them each will get its own rockford fosgate t1500-bd running 2 ohm ( both birthed 1350+@2 ohms) (if that isn't enough power i can drop to 1 0hm by piggybacking the amps) i listen to all types of music, a lot of rap, but also metal rock and techno