rysc86

u can bet your right nut they are

is the AA component available currently?

old amp was rated at 12v, new amp rated at 14.4 but old amp is 11 years old so it may not still be making anywhere near rated. i seriously doubt if its making double the power but the only way to to really know is to fix the tsunami and clamp both of them but it isn't important enough for me to bother

not if there is added viscreal sensations too. It did not shake my steering column before (atl least in this big ass crown vic) nor did it blur my vision before.

but i still heard a audible diffrence between a 1000 watt amp and 1500 watt amp irregardless of actual power even though people here said u cant

but i still heard a audible diffrence between a 1000 watt amp and 1500 watt amp even though people here said u wouldnt

spark plug wires carry 40K plus volts and look how thin those wires are. its amperage that makes u need large wire not volts. but shizzon your post kind of confuses me since it seems like it contradicts its self. It seems like your saying run 1/0 ground from alt or front battery to rear battery AND ground rear battery to frame/chassis. Is this something like how you leave the factory grounds when you do big 3 since current is going to travel through path of least resistance?

but if the only purpose for the wire, amps, speakers ect in the first place is for me too here something, wouldn't saying "it doesnt make a difference if i can't hear it" be accurate? For Big High current competition installs where u want the voltage to be as high as possible and get every single watt you can get in the quest to make the highest number on a computer screen, OFC is the obvious choice but for everyday listening system that would draw less than 200 amps the slight drop in voltage and rise in temp wouldnt hurt anything since you would be far from the stystem max current draw most of the time anyway so that leaves audible diffrence the only factor remaining. A bodybuilder's diet mainly consists of chicken breasts, brown rice and green veggies (along with a lot of test,d-bol Hgh ect) if u just want a lil muscle on your frame and a 6 pack do you need to follow such a restrictive diet? NO because you aren't concerned with bieng at 3% body fat and bieng dehydrated to show off every striation on your muscles to beat the next guy.

just because the batteries show the same voltage doesn't mean they are all fully charged they all just have a decent charge to them. Don't get me wrong i'm planning on running Xspower batts when i get the funds (probally a D3400 or whatever close to it that fits under my hood and 1 or 2 D680's hidden in the rear quarter panels) But i only listen to independent unbiased opinions, tests from sources that could care less what the results show. Like on another forum a somebody posted what would be the best amp for his W7's, people named the typical, AQ, sundown ect. one guy posted he wouldn't run any of the internet brands because he doesn't feel they have the sound quality to match the w7's and would run JL amps but he works at a shop that sells JL audio but not sundown ect.

only problem with that test is that it was done by xspower so its going to be biased. (no real proof all 3 batteries are new or fully charged other than his word so u can't completely rule out the resullts bieng skewed to the side of xs) now if it was done by a independent party with nothing to loose or gain no matter what the results show i would take it with a grain of salt.

I don't quite agree with the "you can't tell the difference between 1000 watt and 1500 watts" theory. i had a Tsunami Gxa1000d that is rated at 1000watts rms @ 12v so at 14.4 probably puts outs 1100-1200 watts. i "switched" (really replaced since the tsunami got wet from me not fully sealing the "roof" of my trunk near the opening when i cut it) to my powerbass xta 1500d and me, my wife and friends noticed a difference. A difference such as with the tsunami i could feel it vibrating stuff and sending pain in my ears while the powerbass did that plus slightly blur my vision and shake my steering wheel. now i doubt if u would really hear a difference between the sundown and the brutus. I've own the zeus 1000d and had it a bout a year before it blew (my alt also went out at the same time so i can't really blame it on the amp because it could have been a low voltage issue) used my ikesound.com warranty and got a Brutus1000D that i ran for a week until i ran into a situation where i could sell it for 200 bucks and buy the tsunami gxa1000D. I never ran or heard a sundown amp. They seem like solid amps from what i've heard on forums about them but what keeps me from buying them new it the price tag. I know you quality costs money but considering i can get a hold of a new rockford fosgate 1500bd cheaper than a sundown 1500D which is as good if not better, i'm not really pushed to fork over the bucks for sundown.

i've used some 1/8th inch thick 1/2 x 1/2 inch "L " brackets (really just some waste metal trim from the retail fixtures i built at a old job) i would say the enclosure didnt vibrate but all-thread, nuts, washers and loctite would probally do a better job

nice. if i didn't already have a double din nav i would install some form of android tablet in my car. Ipads are dope but the cheapest one is like 399 and they only come in one large size which would make them pretty hard to cleanly install in most cars vs android tablets coming in multiple sizes. hell for the price of a ipad i would rather just make some form of dock for a netbook. wouldn't be as clean looking but way more features for less scratch.

one issue is that you are aming the sub at the trunk lid and just asking for it to rattle. try firing the sub through the pass-through hole. I've had a setup like that in the past,you'll love the sensation of the bass slapping you in the back of the head and it does reduce a lot of trunk rattle

dope panther. if ssa doesnt re-stock the bravox cs603CF's i might do something similar to my 97 vic

old thread or not i would have to say still a bad ass sub. I don't know how u couldn't get any lows out of it. mine is in 3.5@33hz firing through the rear deck in a crown vic and still can hits some 20 something hz stuff(according to the tags in Decaf's screwed zips).of course not as loud as the 30-40hz stuff but u can still feel it shake the big sedan. Comparing it to my old/blown Avalanche 15" i would say its a good deal louder and when i stuffed it in the same enclosure (3.5@30hz) the BL hit the lows deeper and had louder "high" bass, also remember ava's had a fs around 19hz. surprisingly both have/had better high bass than what my idmax had in a 2.5@30 hz box but that was kind of a big box for a 12 that likes sealed more than ported.

what happens if somebody gets the RROD in the middle of a match? j/k

i had a avanlanche 15 tuned to 28 hz and that was a very fun experience