Jester1318

ok, i lied. its no longer working. I Got fed up with it and decided to just take the fuse out for the night, ill either be getting rid of it all or trouble shooting some more. I am almost sure it is the headunit, so I will prob just take it out and have it repaired or replaced if i can talk enough to the guys I bought it from

So today I had a buddy of mine helping with the BIG 3 in my truck. He accidentally hit the positive termninal of the battery with a grounded ratchet. When I Asked if he had disconnected the power wire for the amps he said no. I checked the inline fuse and the fuses at the distro block.... all was good so I hoped for the best. When we finished up and turned on the truck... nothing. After much testing I have determined the 2 USA-50 to possibly be toast but the USA-200 seems to still be good. So unhooked the amps, hooked up the 200 and still no power. When I test the power wires and grounds at the amp i am getting something like ~3 volts WTF. On a side note one USA-50 seems to have a bad RCA, if I move around the RCAs I get sound out of the amps but not the 200. I have checked the fuses and wire as much I thought needed to be checked, but is there something I am missing? I am about ready to just call it quits with this whole stereo thing........

yeah but I have it working. Apparently these older amps are not as forgiving as newer, I pushed a bit on the RCA of one amp and the rest seem to follow in suit and are up and running, Im about to go back out and see if the 200 will be working too.

This is what has been checked so far, all fuses have been checked and will be checked again. the battery has been tested and came out good. i am getting ~12 volts (not running) until the remote wire is hooked up or jumpered from the 12volt signal. Anyone have any ideas

Ok I am getting ~12 volts on either side of the fuses now. But I am still getting no power or protect lights on the amps. Could it be the remote wire that is the problem and how should I go about testing that, also what other fuses would you look at besides the inline and fuses at the distro block, I have checked nearly every visible fuse in the truck but will do so again...

Whats the total amount of deadner you ended up using for everything, ensolite and other

To add to the original post, for those of us with trucks, what are the typical dimensions of a full body and mini horn? In trucks sometimes we are limited in leg space and knowing the size of the bodies would help.....

I have a USA-200 pushing a 12" RLP on a single channel at 2 ohms at the moment. From my understanding the 200 is bridgeable at 2 ohms. This is one of the first usamps I have owned, and I am unsure of which terminals to use for bridgeing. Anyone know if it is the right + and the left - or vice versa, or if I am completely wrong and the amp is not bridgeable @ 2 ohms?

I wasnt sure if that was the problem considering nothing was really hooked up, but I guess it could still happen that way, I dont know, oh well, I'll just have to get it fixed

Has anyone else had the whining noise from the RCAs with the 880? I was switching around some wiring today, accidently touched a speaker wire to the ground wire on the amp and all of a sudden I hear a whining when I turn the vehicle back on. When I grounded a single RCA on the front pre-out the sound nearly went away, still there just barely audible So a couple quick questions about this.... When grounding the RCA would I have to do it to every pre-out being used? (white and red of all 3 pre-outs if all were being used?) Is there a nicer looking way of doing this? Should the deck just be sent to pioneer to be fixed instead?

I've had mine for alittle over a week, and absolutely love it.

Would a us amps usa-200 be a good amp to run a single 12" Rlp? I've heard the amp puts out 600+ at 2 ohms...... assuming the rating is correct (or underrated as most us amps tend to be) it sounds to be a great match. Anyone have any thoguhts?

Thats what I thought too, but wasnt sure if it would fit in the box..... I'll change the pic of it redone and see if thats better

2 options I came up with, I'm liking the second one better just because the box is a bit smaller. Obviously before any kind of bracing is added....

Ok, while im on the subject of the box..... Would you guys suggest using round (aeroports, or pvc) or going with a slot port and using more port area?

Well then its settled, I'm going to go this route and figure out a box...... NowI just have to find a usa-200.......

yeah, deifnately just one, its only a king cab nissan frontier..... I was originally going to do a downfiring box but I may just have to try something else and squeeze in a bigger box......

hmm...... would be very interested if I had $600 set aside for amps at the moment. But currently I have a bit less than that aside in my "special account" for amps....... I'm also waiting to hear from treo about the warranty being transferable or not, does anyone know if it is?

Doesn anyone have any expeience with these amps? I am currently shopping around for new amps for the possibly near future and was reading a little bit about treo. I know their subs are of good quality but what about their amps?

I am looking for a 4 channel and an amp for a 12" RLP. In treos case I was looking at the 75.4 and the 750.1

I bought a usa-425 from Ryan, the amp looks great and everything, but when hooked up...... nothing. Im thinking its the preouts on my headunit. What is the best way to test this theory out? Besides hooking the amp up to another headunit? Also, if it is the preouts anyone know how these are fixed, if at all? Thanks

I had a little bit of luck (if you can call it that) I know its not the preouts, I hooked another amp to my headunit and it worked fine. I then hooked up the 425 to a friends car and nothing still. Looks like the amp is the problem.

ElDorado: no sound when i touched the tip of the RCA oldschool: when a sub was hooked up to this headunit, it was a very weak signal but it did have a signal. I have tried a couple sets of RCAs When I hooked my MP3 player up to it nothing happened. Signals should all be good, as I get a green light (peak) on the side with power, ground and remote, but the green light (power) on the opposite side of the amp doesnt light up and there is still no sound. cant try another amp at the moment no other amp in my possession. I get some AC voltage on the sub out but not the others, then again the sub preout is very weak it seems

For those of you familiar with bass box pro and/or winisd, help me out here. The box is 2 cuft tuned to 30hz (12" rlp), 4" precision port When I do this calculation (Lv=((8466.4*r^2)/(Vb*Fb^2))-(1.463*r) I get a number like 15.89". Winisd gives 16.28" with end correction being .614 (is that right for 2 flared ends?) And Bass box Pro gives a length of 17.35". Which of these is correct? Or is there some other part if it I am missing? It seems as though they should all be the same length if my numbers are identical, but they obviously are not. Also, a precision port ordered from PE is 17" in length with adding the flares and not cutting anything, correct? Thanks

I'd like to get ahold of past versions as well, I have 10 and 11 but that was the soonest I found out about this.