Dpaw37

Right now I'm powering my 12" Treo SX with a RD 1750.1 wired to .5 ohms. Not sure exactly how many watts I'm getting taking effieciency, ohm rise and other things into consideration but overall I'm happy with its output. Was just curious though...given everything is the same other than switching out the RD with a Sundown 2500 wired to .5 ohms (sub is dual 1 so I'm looking at .5 or 2 ohm options) how much of a difference could I be looking at? The pre sale for the sundowns looks like an amazing price and honestly I'm considering picking one up.

I want one. Just not sure how much of a difference I'd actually see if I switched from my RD 1750.1 wired to .5 ohms. And if it would be worth the money...

Not to my knowledge no...tis a sad day. Guy I bought the Treo SSX from was running a Kicker amp at 2 ohms 2500 watts. With my 1750.1D I am (or was) getting under 2500 at .5 ohms. I'm curious how a kicker amp would sound on it...the sub is dual 1 ohm so it's either .5 or 2 ohms and amps get pricey when your wiring at 2 ohms.

RCAs are fine. Talked to a dealer for RD and he said most likely I fried the ground side of the amp. Great.

Everything working fine until just a second ago. Move the amp and battery around a little (Shuriken BT100 and RD 1750.1D) because they move when I drive which I hate and am looking to fix somehow...but pretty much all I did was increase the subsonic filter a little from like 20 to 23hz, turned the car on and no power to the sub........amp light is on no protection. Checked power connections and everything is fine. Fuse rating for the amp is 4x40amp but I'm assuming they are inside the amp as I cannot see them on the exterior. My only thought at this point is that when a small piece of wire protruding from the amp ground to the amp power that it zapped a fuse? I saw a spark but Ive seen that before and everything was fine. I'm so confused. Updated my ipod and reconnected as well...but the sub doesn't get power on any source. ??

Get a good battery for up front. Get some more wire and complete the big 3 too.

I'll rip it out and take a look. As for voltage, I've never checked it and am curious as to how I would install a voltmeter in the back (or front/both?) You don't need to install one long term. A DMM would suffice to help you diagnose. As for the power wire.....most of the manual's I've read recommend wiring the constant power wire directly to the battery. Thanks man. Would it be ok to run just some 12 gauge speaker wire to the batt? Can't imagine the HU would need 8 gauge.

Interesting. Didn't know this.

I'll rip it out and take a look. As for voltage, I've never checked it and am curious as to how I would install a voltmeter in the back (or front/both?)

Can't imgaine it being a loose wire though...was hoping to get more info on the power issue.

In all honesty, accounting for the fact it is running at .5 ohms, realisticly I went over just to make sure I'm getting at least the 2000 recommended watts. Got a clearance price on the amp for $325 brand new and it's performing flawlessly...just as my 1000.1 did and still does in my brothers car for 2 years now. So, maybe you can see where I'm comming from. In my experience in car audio and on other forums I've never heard RD talked bad about besides this forum which is why I was confused.

It's playing Ipod but I have tried it while on radio/tuner and it did it once. Curious why you don't think I'm doing 2500 watts though. I don't understand why everyone has negative things to say about RD.

Last week my CDA-9886 started doing this thing where, from what I've noticed, at high volumes it will just restart in the middle of a song and keep restarting unless I turn it down. Running 1 Treo SSX 12 powered by an RD 1750.1D at .5 ohms for 2500 watts. Got a nice wal mart bat up front with 800 cca and a shuriken bt100 in the back, big 3 and all 0 gauge of course. Talked to the guy who's sold me RD stuff before and he said if it were the amp it wouldn't making the HU restart like that...which I pretty much knew. From what I gathered it's either a loose wire or worse, the HU isn't getting enough amps because of a shitty power cord to it... just wanted to get some opinions and see if anyone else has had this problem which I find pretty wierd. Forgot to mention what I'm driving. A 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited that came with infinity sound system.

Grand cherokee came with a 136 amp alt and I had a wal mart battery up front with 850 cca and 80 AH already in it. Like I said got a BT100 in the back and after talking with an RD sales rep who I have bought several things from said the 1750.1 would do .5 easy. I agree about testing voltage though just to be sure. What is the best way to do it? My buddy has a regular volt meter I could use. Edit: I see you were questioning whether or not my electrical could handle .5 ohm not the amp. What is the difference of running 2500 watts at .5 ohm or 1 or 2 ohms? Lower impedances make the amp less efficient and have to draw more power. As for the gain, there's no problem in having your head unit at 21 and setting the amp gain higher. That's the whole purpose of the gain. Your gain probably goes from like .2-6 volts, which means if you had a source with only a .2 volt output, your gain would have to be all the way up. There's nothing wrong with that. Having a higher gain setting in and of itself does not cause clipping, as there is no "magic spot" where clipping starts to occur like with most head units. Do not use the bass boost to get more output. Just adjust the gain higher. And yes, increasing the sub level output on the head unit will increase the signal voltage to the sub amp. I'd set the gain with the sub level output maxed out, that way you have a lot of play to adjust for higher or lower bass volume with different songs. Thanks man! This is what I was looking for. And thanks to everyone else for the input as always. SSA ftw.

Really great subs. Finally got my Q I gave to my brother in a ported box and either way they play clean and low. Great subs. I wonder how the 12 compares to the 15 though.