mr.sagat

Well, the grounds of the big 3 are important, but imo will not make as dramatic of a difference as the positive run from the alt. Here's my reasoning. Almost all vehicles already have battery ground to chassis and chassis to engine block grounds ran. These are usually a little thick, (2-6 gauge) and are usually short lengths too. The alt wire, is usually some puny wire (10-14) gauge and is usually a lot longer run (could be up to 6-8 feet) then the ground wires of the big 3. So wire wise, your making a night and day difference between the positive, but only a dusk to dark difference between the grounds.

Like you said? You never mentioned the size of your Massive, I had to assume the massive was small, since the ppi 2600 isn't really all that great by todays standards. AFAIK massive never had an amp that puts that puts out 8000 watts rms. I'm not trying to be a dick, I just don't want you to have unrealistic expectations of your system. Windows will probably never break and any current or past model of Massive audio amps will not put out 8000 rms.

You strip about 3/4 of an inch of insulation off the cable. You put the bare cable into the ring terminal. You then crimp the mess out of it! LOL The ring terminal has a hole in it, you then put the stud from the battery terminal through the terminal ring. Here's a few pics for you that I've done myself. That is a stud on the back of my alt, and I used a ring terminal to connect to it. The same principal applies to the studs on the battery terminal.

I just use marine grade battery posts from autozone. They are like $3.99 a pair. They have threaded studs on the top to accept ring terminals. They also tighten down with a wing nut so you don't have to have any tools to connect or disconnect anything once the terminals are on... so your saying it would be a waste of money to spend over 50 dollars on terminals when I could probably spend less than 20 at autozone? As long as quality isn't sacrificed I'm fine. Yeah, the connection will be really good as long as you get the terminals crimped on and not crushed on using a vise. I used to be a ac and dc ship electrician. So, I dealt with ring terminals and 50 foot runs of 4/0 everyday. I can promise you if they are crimped on right, they will not want to ever come apart These are what I'm talking about.

I just use marine grade battery posts from autozone. They are like $3.99 a pair. They have threaded studs on the top to accept ring terminals. They also tighten down with a wing nut so you don't have to have any tools to connect or disconnect anything once the terminals are on...

If you want to be as possible then build a wall!! LOL A couple of 18 inch xcons would be sick. I had a daily driver wall setup, it wasn't too unbearable, I just hated backing up....... What model amp you plan on running? That ppi amp, isn't really gonna unlock the potential of a serious sub setup....just sayin, not enough power.....

The installer used SolarGard HP Supreme 4% That is the exact same tint he installs on the local DEA and DTF cars. I got a brow on it too, but nothing too crazy. The local police don't care about the tint, but state troopers have fits. This is on a very sunny day with white leather interior, and my idiot self has armor all on the windows

sorry of the dp, but I think I've found accurate picture of it. Total fusing is 60 amps, if that is the case that amp might do 600 RMS @ 1 ohm. What are you looking for, for what price? I love running off brand budget amps that are actually decent, maybe I could suggest something for you....

are you sure that is the right pic of that amp? If it is the same amp in the picture, the most that amount could make is around 500-600 watts. In the pic, there was only 50 amps of fusing on it. Not really cutting it

Someone please put that monster in a light socket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dude, I'm not knocking your boxes, that box is sexy enough to fornicate with. Your making what your satisfied customer is asking for, and delivering it to him nicely. I agree that the carpet filling capabilities won't change tuning by a significant amount. The carpet would raise it slightly though, you're right Even though it does not go inside the port, I still would believe that carpet inside the box could potentially upset the velocity of the air before it makes it to the port., which could in turn, slightly lower port velocity. I've gained .6 db on the meter by glassing, sanding, and waxing the inside of my box with out touching my port. (I ran out of resin) Smoothed fiberglass helped me, so I would assume something with a rougher texture than mdf (carpet) would potentially make you lose output. I'm sure it's less than 1 db so hearing will not detect the difference, but the meter would tell otherwise. Then again, maybe glassing just increased my box's rigidity enough that I gained because of that. I'm not sure.... Anyway, the box you're making is to customer specs and it's a daily driver setup that I'm sure is going to be a SQ monster and get loud doing it

I've played around with meters alot, and from my experiences with carpeting you will lose output. I've lost it every time on the outside of an enclosure, so my guess is that it'd hurt on the inside too. I'm sure it's going to hurt port velocity, and I would assume it would act like a very mild dampener, and may lower box tuning slightly.

Your alternator doesn't "kick on", it doesn't have a clutch like an AC compressor. Whenever your engine is running, your alternator is charging. That's partially correct. There is no clutch on your alt, but the alt does not charge to it's full capacity at all times. So, if he is running a power hungry amp, it will strain the alt and make her charge at a higher amperage than usual to compensate for the voltage drop that is occuring. Will that make for more resistance on the alt/ drivebelt system? I'm not sure........

Everything looks sweet so far. For some reason 8's have a special place in my heart.

old school strokers FTW. Those subs got stupid loud in the day, and sounded like ass doing it. I miss mine. Best $40 sub I've ever had. There's a guy hitting 152's with one jackhammer. That's not a bad number, but for the money it isn't worth it at all.

right on thank you! Brian is right, I used this stuff from walmart called "big gap sealer" and it dried faster and expanded more than the red devil brand I used to use.

Dude, next time you spray that stuff, do it a little at a time. Spray a can, then let it solidify a little. Then spray over what is solidified. The reason it didn't cure is because it isn't being exposed to oxygen. I'm not hating or anything, I made the same mistake with my wall

I can't suggest too much, but I'd look on a great site like crutchfield to find the headunit that you want. After you find it, get the part number then look for it under google shopping or froogle. You should be able to find a cheap but good vendor from there. I've got a amp that puts out way over 2000 rms for under $160 shipped doing that. I also just ordered a pioneer headunit for $150 shipped, that comes with a oled display and ipod support.

Nice mustang. Just please get rid of those cheese grater taillights. Throw some lx tails on it. I've had 5 fox body mustangs, I can't get enough of them. Here was my 86, the car was pretty raw. She ran high 11's in the quarter and looked stock under the hood!

When I was in first grade, (1991-1992) I had a folder with one of these, and I used to stare at it in awe everyday, lol

ROTFLMAO

Dude, just get an amp that is .5 ohm stable or get two smaller amps that are 1 ohm stable and preferably daisy chainable.

Don't know if you all know about "Donkey Kong"

ohhh, that'd be sick....get them here is the plan...

I know I have a car audio addiction when...... after your sub enclosure is completed, the first thing you do is stick your head inside of it and you make sub sounds with your voice.