mr.sagat

That's a good seller. I got 3 of my koles from them. They were selling the koles for $169 shipped. You can get the audiopipe 1500, but for $5 more you can get a refurb kole from them (90 day warranty) IMO if you want more power and wiring flexibility, get the kole, if you like the 1 year warranty, get the audiopipe.

ahh I'm not some spl pro but in my opinion you'd do good by going for a huge box and the tune to be in the low 40's. It would peak at the mid to upper 40's and that would be louder since it is probably closer to the resonant frequency of your vehicle. Give me some dimensions to look at and I could mock you up a box using a program. Does that car have a trunk, or is this a hatch setup?

The amp is SOLID. I can honestly find 5 articles on the net where they have been clamped and put out power. Pasmag ( a reputable audio mag) Tested one when they first came out and made 2240 rms @ 1 ohm with less than 14 volts. That wasn't a peak either, that was measured four seconds after initial burp. In terms of power, they make less than a GP3000D Pro, and a Audiopipe 3000d, but I'd guarantee you in a high volt low ohm burp they'd push more power than a AQ2200D. Anyway, in your low power situation, the kole won't even get warm, and will not send a dirty signal. Mine gets warm @ .5 ohm, but how many $200 amps do you know that play .5 ohm all day everyday like a champ. Here's a birth certificate to one of the amps that it shares the same board with Well, get what you want, I spam this forum with praise about that amp all the time. So, I'll shut up now

I'm not sure if you're a brand whore or not, but here's my suggestion and I promise you it'll freakin wang for a lil under $400. 2 12" Crunch Ground Pounders (GPV12D4) and a Kole QX1-3000D The Ground Pounders are known on the maxxsonics forums to be budget monsters. Two older model 15's hit a 155 on the dash in a van, while around 3000 watts a piece for a burp. The new model is slightly less beefy, but more sensitive, and is still a great budget sub. Kole QX1-3000D- This is a monster of an amp for the price. The amp really does over 2240 RMS @ 1 ohm. The amp is also .5 ohm stable. There are a ton of clamp tests for this amp, and it puts out ridiculous power for the price. I've owned 5 of these now over the years and never had one blow on me or clip a sub. The amp has the same guts as the Soundstream Picasso 2000D, PA A3000DB, Opti2000D and a couple of older Planet Audio amps. Here's a few pics of amp guts. The first is a 600 watt rms 2 channel cadence, the 2nd is the "kole" board Dude, it's not even close....

I had a pair of infinity reference 12's I picked up for $50 about six months ago. The guy from the local car audio shop wanted to trade me for his old school 15 inch Cerwin Vega Stroker. I've owned one of these in the past and could never get over how freakin loud they get with so little power.

Id say it sounds "decent" for an old school sub that was meant to fart. My box's tune is actually pretty high, tuned for 40, peaks at 41 and F3 is at 37. The peak note for the install right now seems to be 43hz. I have never made a box with that high of a tune before, but according to bassbox pro 6 I would of lost a lot of output with a lower tuning with the stroker. I normally don't take bassbox pro as the gospel truth, but the stroker has a lot different T/S parameters then what I'm used to using. So I was worried about using the huge box, huge port, low tune approach I normally take. I am for sure taking your advice and sealing the trunk and front firing when I get more mdf.

I got her installed and played around with my meter. Over 2 db's louder facing it toward the back. I want to seal off the trunk and frontfire, but I ran out of mdf I gained a tenth of a db over my previous setup, and the funny thing is my old setup was 2 12's and was @ 1 ohm. The stroker is @ 4 ohms.

Well originally I was going to use it in a 4th order cut through on my caddy. After doing measurements and mocking using bassbox pro 6, I found out I couldn't get the port size I wanted without cutting up my rear dash. I then decided on a 8 cube monster of a box, but then decided against that too after realizing that sound pressure will be hard to go from the back of the trunk to the cab with a mdf coffin almost completely covering everything. After punching numbers until 2 am, I finally came up with 4.6 cubes after displacement with 46.5 inches of port. The box peaks @ 42 hz which was the resonant frequency of my caddy last time I checked. The good thing about this box is that it's the perfect size to change positions in my caddy, I could fire it up, forward or backward just by moving the box. I also plan on putting the face on the "outside" of the box, so I can use door weatherstripping instead of wood glue on the face, and change it out to other setups. I normally run bigger ports, but my program kept telling me it'd be louder to sacrifice port space and gain on internal volume. I've ran a stroker years ago and found they are really "different" when it comes to likes and dislikes.

imo the termlab price should drop. Correct me if I'm wrong, but all the termlab really is, is a modified mass air flow sensor for a ford. You can get a new mass air for around $150. So I am guessing that the new case, modding the sensor, splicing it to an ethernet cable and giving you a computer program add up to a $600 "Termlab". I'm not trying to sound like an ass, but it seems like the profit margin for TL's is huge compared to other car audio products.

This setup will be in a 1985 celebrity wagon. I want insane, air moving hard hitting lows. Two different setups.... 1. I was considering a wall running directly behind the front seats with 4 L7 15's and the most port I can run and still have a low tune. I'm guessing about 300 square inches of port. 2.Another idea I was considering was running a huge box with subs up and port up that starts with the box directly behind the front seats and takes up all cargo area, but keep the box just tall enough to have the port firing on the angled back glass. Of course the port will be as big and tuned as low as I can logically make it. On the 2nd idea I was going to run a lot more cone area, wanting to fit anywhere from 12 to 24 (hifonics HFI's) 12's in it depending on how many cubes I got to play with.... I think the 2nd setup is alot more easier to make, and will potentially get louder since there will be so much more cone area, any ideas? I think the angle of the back glass on the wagon will be perfect for redirecting pressure, here's a pic of a car like it..

I think you're right with the rear end of the car sagging. Well after talking it over with the owner of the wagon, he decided he's wants to do a cut through on his 97 Silverado.

I've got a Shiva that I haven't used in over 5 years that I just installed in my vehicle. I forgot how loud this thing can get. One of my favorite subs ever. Back a few years ago I ran a pair of MKIV Shivas. I went to a local sound comp with them using a slot port box facing my rear in my 300zx. When it was my turn to get metered, I raised my hatch to reposition my box and the onlookers busted out laughing when they saw I was running "paper cone house speakers" As soon as the first burp came out and I hit a 147.8 with a 43hz tone everyone was silenced. I was the loudest person on the dash that day. I beat out 2 13w7's on 3000 watts, 3 10" L5's on 2000 watts, 3 memphis M3 15's on 3000 watts and a cut through truck with 4 3000spl pioneer 12's and 2000 watts. It's all about the install and box design, and the locals still don't understand that. Those were my first audio trophies. Later that night, I had my girl over at my house, and being the man/jackass that I am, I was telling her the whole story while I was shadowboxing, and kicked my trophies and broke one of them into pieces IMO shivas were great, they were like cheap JL w6's but better lol

ahh man, hating on jl, I love it

You don't hear about xbl mcuh because Dan Wiggins holds the liscence to the product and he only does OEM work now. Kinda like a neo magnet, not many companies use it right? But what most people don't know is neo magnets are used on just about every small application from cell phones to the motors on the active braking on a Toyota Pruis. Mr. Sagat, if you miss Adire, I am working on 12 and 15 that achieves 24 mm of one way linear excursion with only 600 watts that might interest you. Dude, if you can make it an sq monster and it looks bland like adire products did, then I'm all in

I miss adire audio

Just get a Power Acoustik A3000DB or a Lanzar Opti 2000D. Both amps will play .5 ohm all day and toss out over 2000 watts when needed. They are also under $300 new. So if you have dual 2 ohm L7's, you are good to go You shure about those amp options arnt the best quality dont want a crappy single and clip your subs to death. Audiopipe 3000d would be my option! have a little more power running to your subs and turn your gain down lower so it wont send a clipping single out! Dude, the A3000DB board is easily the best priced board for the value and has been that way for half a decade. I've owned 5 of them, they never gave me any problems, never clipped and killed any subs, and put out mad power for their price point. I run one of mine @ .5 ohm daily with no problems. Last time I've seen one clamped, she made over 2400 watts @ 2 ohms with 15.8 volts going to it. (measured after 3 seconds burping, so it's rms) I would take the audiopipe over one a3000db any day, but you can get two a3000db's for the price of one audiopipe and a3000db's strapped would make the audiopipe look foolish. Oh yeah, lanzar is usually a trash brand like power acoustik, but the "opti" line is actually really good and does rated output.

nightbass on quad maximus imo sucks compared to nightbass on the reload album Dr. oblivion remake on reload album is good too. I like blockbuster on faster, harder, louder. Woofercooker on bass hit has nasty lows. For music there is a latin/ techno CD called ERA. On some of their songs they have rumbling lows, like an earthquake, ameno is one of them...

hahaha yours is the exception! That gp pro eats most amps for breakfast lunch and dinner. ohhh, a 1200 watt hifonics brutus is close to your budget and I'm sure it'll put out over 1000 @ 1 ohm.

I decided to try a shirt trick today. My setup did an ok job. Only thing that sucks is that cd's skip. I guess I should run everything from my ipod from now on. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsw16V1g0CQ

Here's my wall in my Z, info is in my sig below. A rough look, but serves the purpose. I kinda want to put suede over her. The port beats up on passengers pretty well, since it is so close to the headrest.

Here's a few newer pics. Still very ugly, but starting to look better after I cleaned it up and painted it. I want to go with vinyl or suede over the face, but I know with my lack of skills, there will be staples showing and adhesive not holding

I don't think xmax helps on a meter too much. I used to run an old school stroker, that thing was only rated at 13mm xmax and got stupid loud on higher spl tones. Xmax and cone area do seem important if maximum air movement and displacement for hitting lows is your agenda. I'm sure others on this forum know a lot more about this subject than I do.... (sits down in front of computer and waits to learn)

Just get a Power Acoustik A3000DB or a Lanzar Opti 2000D. Both amps will play .5 ohm all day and toss out over 2000 watts when needed. They are also under $300 new. So if you have dual 2 ohm L7's, you are good to go

I like the wagon with the dd's in it

I wish I knew more info about your install, but on a low wattage setup, it would be hard for a single 10 to compare to 2 12's if they both have nice ported boxes.... So, I say custom box for the kickers