deernet

I'ma try to later tonight. My phone doesn't do videos, my uncle's does though, and he's coming by later tonight, so I'll get one up later. I've never had something this loud, I'm loving it! The flex is awesome, I can put a handful of change on the roof and it bounces. I'm sure you guys don't think its nothing special, but I'm excited, haha. Just thought I'd share.

Used? It retails for $599, I've searched and can't find it any cheaper than around $449.

I think it might be tough to find an amp for under $350 that puts out 1500 at 2 ohm, a quality one anyways. Thats why I got the dual 2s, because it seems that you can find alot more amps that put out 1500 at 1 ohm for around $350. I got my T1500-1bd (which on the birth sheet says that it was tested at 1796 watts at 1 ohm) for $395 shipped, brand new.

I'd like to see you explain it more. I'm interested in why the cooling wouldn't have an effect on thermal failure.

You could get a Crescendo 3KWP that puts out 1650 at 2 ohms, 3370 at 1 ohm for $549. Why did you decide to go with the dual 1 instead of dual 2 so you could run at 1 ohm?

I can't believe so many people are worried about the color, when for the price difference you could have the thing custom airbrushed. Aesthetics are one of the last things I'm concerned about with an amplifier.

This thread seems like a great testament to the quality, patience, and customer service of DB-R. Also goes to show that even though you think the problem is one thing, you should always make sure that your entire system is in working order before turning it on, especially on a brand new install. I'm surprised they're going to warranty it again for free when it is obviously your fault. I'd consider yourself lucky. I also think an apology would be in order for questioning that the amp was even tested, and insinuating that he sold you a bad amp in the first place. That's what this guy does for a living, I would hope that he would take precautions, and make sure everything works before it goes out the door, and obviously he does.

What kind of vehicle? Seems odd you can fit two twelves, but not a fifteen...

As everyone else has said, they sound like shit because your using the low pass....

Lollerskates....

I also say to put the amp into a known working system and try it out. It definitely SOUNDS like an install issue to me. That would be a surefire way to rule out any other problems with your system, just put it into a known working system and see what happens. Although, if something is wrong with your setup, the damage may already be done... Also, I wouldn't be so quick to lay the blame on DB-R. I've personally never used them, but have heard nothing but good things about them.

That thing is badass, especially for the price. I'd been saving for a T2500-1bd, but I think I might go for a 3KWP AND a 1000C4 for LESS money. I'm seriously thinking I'm going to go with one of these in the future. Same circuitry as the Sundown, for a much better price, looks like win win to me. I'd never looked into Crescendo before, I'm glad I saw this thread. I've found out about all kinds of great stuff through SSA.

I guess I'm in the 1% then, because I had a Memphis two channel that I hooked up to an enclosure I was going to buy, and the dude had two twelves wired together, except he had the positives and negatives hooked together. I was stupid for not checking it. Before I could turn it off smoke literally rolled out of my amp.

I don't think just unhooking the RCA's is good enough, there is still probably power running to the outputs if you are putting power into it... I'd pull the fuses like suggested before.

How much? $1,350, or $1,215 if you buy four or more... haha Fountek Altitude 3500 Tube Amplifier - 32 Watt from Madisound

If they did touch together, you probably would have noticed the smoke rolling out of the amp, haha. I've been down that road.

I've been looking for some 8s that have a very shallow mounting depth, to use in my doors to get some good midbass. So far all I've come up with are the JL TW5, and they're 13 inch. I'd really like to find something closer to 8 inch. I know that I could use deeper ones and glass the doors out, but then I think I would always be rubbing on them with my leg while driving. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd appreciate them.

If I wired the SLS's in parallel I'd get 4 ohms. I'd also be limited to one channel. Since these would be going into the doors, would I want to have them on separate channels (left and right), or would it really matter with midbass? If I got the REX's I could do the same thing and get a 2 ohm load, thus more power from the amp...

As for speaker cable, I went with the Karma SS just because I think it looks cool. I got the 12 gauge, because I figured it would be fine for my application (around 2000 watts).

Predrilling will help with splitting, i recommended predrilling Every hole you're going to drill. Yeah, the predrilling really helps. I'd definitely do it.

RaTtLz, What kind of amp is that in your avatar?

No thats not all I'm worried about. The SLS has a blank dustcap, which would go well with anything I suppose. I guess I'll be going with the SLS8 after all the good recommendations. Madisound has a huge selection on its site, I found a lot of interesting stuff on there. Those Hi-Vi SP10s look pretty cool. Anyone here used them? I'm wondering if there will be any disadvanteges to the SLS being single 8 ohm whereas the REX is dual 4.

I've always wanted one of these: Its a little out of my price range right now though.

Here are the specs for the Peerless SLS8: Nominal Impedance 8 ohm Re 5.9 ohm Fs 36.5 Hz Sensitivity 87.2 dB Qms 7.8 Qes 0.59 Qts 0.54 Vas 33.1 liters Bl 8.3 Tm Mms 33g Cms 0.57 mm/N Le 2.1mH VC diameter 39mm X-max 8.5mm Peerless SLS 830667, 8" Paper Cone Woofer from Madisound And the REX8: 8" Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.38 Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 4.21 Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.34 Free Air Resonance -Fs: 22.8 Hz Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 27.1 liters One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 12 mm Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 81.2 dB SPL Effective Piston Area -Sd: 195 cm^2 DC Resistance -Re: 3.2 ohm Nominal Impedance -Znom: Dual 4 ohm Thermal Power Handling -Pe: 175 W Force Factor -Bl: 15.4 Technical Specifications - RE AUDIO

For crossover, I'd like to eventually get an Alpine PXA-H701, I probably won't have the money for it for a little while, so until then I'll just be using the built in crossovers in my amps. I'll probably be putting around 200 watts a piece to them. Do you really think the SLS drivers are that much better than the RE's? I really wanted to go with those REX's so that they would match my components.