jdub0802

Thank you for the quick answer.

Thank you both for your quick answers. When putting the fill in, should I glue it to the box to make sure it doesn't end up in the vent or in the cone area?

Hi Nate, Looking for your solid advice on my current project. I have a SAE-1200D running at 1 ohm, and a MB Quart 4125 running at 4ohms per channel. Stock alternator (105 amp) and a Autocraft titanium battery in my 2004 Impala. The big three have been updated with 1/0 wire, and the alternator has been modded so that it produces about .2 volts more at all times. With the car warm and music at half level the voltage at the sub amp and the battery is at 14.8 volts steady. With the music at full tilt with heavy bass the voltage drops as low as 12.9 at the battery and amp. This is when it looks like the car is a disco ball and headlights/all the interior lights dim. The voltage drops around from 14.5 to 12.8 on heavy bass notes. The headlights start dimming when the voltage starts dropping into the 13s. I normally cruise with the volume at 3/4 but like to turn it up when on the highway and the windows are down. I can only afford to purchase a new battery (thinking D3400) to replace the the front Autocraft, or purchase a new HO Alternator. While I maybe able to add to this later it would be months down the line. What would be your recommendation to best help the voltage drop right now. I don't plan to add anything more to the system in the future either. Thank you for your help. Jimmy

Hi All, I purchased a 1.48 cubic foot box for a 12 inch Icon that I was purchasing, since it was the optimal size box after the sub displacement. However, through some serious luck and acts of nature, I was sent a 12 inch Xcon instead of the Icon. The sub is being powered by a SAE-1200D at 1 ohm in the back of my 2004 Impala. While the Xcon sounds great and is finally breaking in, it seems to want a bigger box. The sub is crossed at 80hz, and hits really hard in the 40 to 50 hz range, but below that it seems to run out of steam fast. I am guessing that this is due to the small box. I don't have the funds to have a new box built right at the moment, so I was wondering if adding some poly-fil to the current would help out? If it would help out, how much should I add to the box? Thank you all for your help. Jimmy

Thank you all for the quick help. I think that I am going to try out the Hydraulic Crimpers from Harbor Freight. Seems like crimping is the best option when done correctly. I will report back with how they worked, going to get them this weekend.

I have always crimped my connections as they mostly are 8 awg or less. Moving to large wire I have found crimping to be a royal pain in the a$$. I was looking at soldering as a nice option but I have only ever soldered water pipes. Is the process and technique basicly the same? Flux the wire and inside of bass connector, heat connector, insert wire and place solder around the edge of the wire so that it is pulled into the connector? Any help that you could provide or tricks of the trade would be great. Plan on upgrading the Big 3 this weekend and some under the hood wiring. Thank you.

Thank you both for your help. So it won't turn the Amp off power wise, but it will turn the gain so low that there won't be any power going to the sub? Sorry for the confusion.

Hi All, Complete noob to the Sundown name, but I recently purchased a SAE-1200D to power a SSA Icon 12 as a daily driver. My question is on the remote that came with the amp there is an 'off' labeled to the left of the min setting. Does this turn the amp off if the knob is put there? I was going to install a switch in the remote turn on lead so that I can have the radio on with out the sub at certain times. (Like listening to a hockey game on the radio) But if the remote will serve my purpose then there is no need for the added switch. Thank you for any help that you can provide.