Ohjay

I doubt it makes 3200 watts with only 150 amps of fusing and those 4awg power and ground inputs.

USB in the power port and knob in the ashtray look sweet. This build just keeps getting better. Sure wish I had a stock location for a tweeter, I'm driving myself crazy trying to figure out where to mount 'em.

Have you tried the amp in a cooler environment? If your subs are in the cabin of the car, why not try the amp in the cabin and see if the heat buildup in the trunk is truly the culprit?

That's all I have to say 'bout that.

They look good bro.

Very nice install.

Maybe the dustcap is not glued down properly?

I ordered a B Stock 100.2 from db-r and it has 1 tiny little spot that looks like someone barely bumped a screwdriver against the heatsink while mounting. I didn't even notice it the first time I looked at it, I had to check it out twice and actually look for it to find the blemish. Some of these B stock amps are still nice enough to display in a show type setup. These are sweet prices too, I wish I had some funds right now but I'm broke as a joke.

Group 31 just refers to the size of the battery. It is usually the largest battery that most people can fit in an under hood application. Since the battery case is much larger than most, the factory producing them can pack more inside, giving you more available power. Tuning to a higher frequency will generally (but not always) increase your spl score, so in theory you could possibly raise the tuning of your enclosure and use less power to achieve a similar score. Nobody can really tell you if you will be able to get louder or even achieve the same score as before after dropping amplifier power. I'm guessing your "cutoff" is simply your amp going into protection mode due to low voltage? How long does it take for this to happen during your Termlab testing? Does it happen within a few seconds of a heavy bass note?

Glad he was not hurt, looks like it could have been very bad. I don't swerve for anything smaller than a horse unless there's plenty of room and it is quite safe to do so (like another lane that is empty). The deer would have caused much less damage, he should have just slowed down and took them out. A little cosmetic damage to the grill, bumper, hood, fenders is always much better than taking the chance of flying off the road and tearing up something mechanical along with the cosmetic damage that is likely to be caused buy leaving the roadway (not to mention the most important factor, YOU). It seems like your little brother is lacking a bit in the common sense department when behind the wheel. At 1 AM in the fog and on a gravel road, he should have been driving slow enough to plow into the deer and not cause much, if any damage anyway. Maybe someone should take his Ls for a while for his own safety.

You don't have enough electrical to support 8,000 watts. A single 140 amp alternator is not going to cut it either. If you want to get this most out of this setup and remain in the class you are in, you are going to need the biggest alternator you can find and replace that Optima with the biggest and best battery you can find. If the rules allow it, I would do some fabrication (if necessary) and use a group 31 battery like XS Power's D3100. You're going to need all the help you can get to even attempt to satisfy the demands of an amplifier making 8,000 watts rms on a 12 volt system with a single battery and alternator.

Ouch, shit gets expensive on the new rides.

Looks like one hell of a good time. I think I saw that pink Scion at the show I attended in Durant a couple weeks ago.

What amplifier are you running? I would think you're using a pretty big amp to be in the 150s, I don't think you have near enough power to begin with. You're going to need a higher output alternator than you are running now if you don't want such severe voltage drop.

I'll start by listing all the equipment used in the vehicle (2008 Dodge Caliber) and say that all of this has been installed and working fine for months until tonight. Starting up front, we have a 230amp DC alt, hooked to a factory replacement Duralast battery under the hood and the big 3 in 1/0. There's a fused power wire running from said under hood Duralast to Kinetik 1400 in the back near the amplifier, then on to the amplifier which is a Hifonics bxi1606D wired to 1 ohm. This amp is powering a pair of D4 Skar VVX12s. Now on to the problem, tonight we started the car and immediately noticed a sound/noise coming from inside the amplifier on the power/ground/speaker terminal side (it's louder on this side when listening to the noise anyway). I unplugged the RCAs and the noise continued, so I plugged them back in and unplugged the knob, the noise was still there so I plugged it back in. Then I loosened and unplugged the remote wire which of course shut off the amp and killed the noise, then I put the remote wire back into the amp (car still running) and the amp turned back on and lit up, but the noise was still there, so I pulled the remote wire for now. The noise sounds almost like a small electric fan, I'm not sure what it could be, I'm just looking for some suggestions before I open the amp up and check it out further. Has anyone experienced this before or have any idea what is making the noise and why?

It was not going to do much anyway, your alt is not capable of producing anywhere near the power you need. You might notice significant voltage drop even with another alt.

Looks pretty good

Glad you figured it out.

I would probably just do 1 then, either ported or sealed depending on your preference as the CVRs like large sealed boxes and your enclosure will likely end up a fairly similar size either way.

Eric Church - Smoke a little smoke

I'd say you probably could use a better ground back there, you shouldn't be experiencing that much drop front to back. My brother's Caliber for example only has a drop of like .01-.02 usually from front battery to rear battery.

Ahh, sometimes hard to cipher