snail05

I got some torx bits so ill try to get the stripped screw out today considering the weather. I guess I'll just get some silicone and put the t nuts in from the inside.

No, I was gonna use silicon but decided against it. If I have remove them that's one good idea =)

Anyone feel like flaming today??? I used t nits to install the sub... i hammered them in to the front of my baffle. It popped in my head today that air would leak out and cause this buzzing noise I'm hearing. I never heard anything about pushing them in the back from inside the enclosure. My friend actually asked me during our install and I said "no def not... I'm smart... I know what I'm doing." I think I'm gonna tell him to slap me later today. Anyway. I'm thinking its gonna be a pita to get theses out. I have some extra dynamat from my last install. Can I use this as some sort of gasket? Seems easier then removing the t nuts IMO. Thanks again.

=P ok... I'm just thinking if they discontinued the se for the se/x that the dust cap would be different and they wouldn't have any. But w/ e ill give them a call after i check some other things. I was gonna ohm the vc'sout and maybe glue down the tinsel leads and check the spider first.

Bump... Where would I get a new dust cap? If its not too expensive ill just rip off the old and glue on the new

Yes its at low volumes too. You have to listen for, but its there. I can't feel any leaks or looseness on the dust cap. How would I reglue the dustcap? My friend and i thought the same thing. It just seems like something is loose rather than broken. Plus the cone moves pretty good. Edit: i did notice that around the edge of the dust cap it looks like it's raised or maybe just not glued on correctly. Ill try to pry on it a bit tomorrow.

You can't really see much. I used my cell phone. Also sounds much bassier when your not so close but this is the sound I'm talking about. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bDei7sk3Wo

What is ssf? Box should be tuned to 33 Hz @ 1.25 cubes. Built by argent audio Sundown saz 1000d amp if it matters

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!! thats exactly what i need. i googled and found people saying they used torx bits... but i could stand the thought of potentially destroying my expensive bits. basket is the word i was looking for, and yes i know about the new models. i bought the old one cuz i heard the "x" line sucked. anyone think a recone for a newb is ok? ive never taken apart a speaker or anything but i know my way around a car and a tool box

so i bought a re se 10 about a year ago. i bought it from dealer cost audio or whatever. either way ive heard of problems from this site after i ordered. so i installed it friday for the first time. everything was hooked up correctly. triple checked before making it final. i turned on my hu, turned up the volume to just get the sub moving. after about an hour i turned it up a little more, went to the cargo area to check and i noticed this little paper ruslting sound. after a few more hours i turned the volume up more and the sound was more prominent. now its just annoying. i cant really hear it from the front. but its noticable from the back. as volume goes up it gets worse. i can hear it in the port too, however no where near as loud as the cone. so i have four questions. 1. one of my allen head blots is stripped so i need some tips for getting that out. 2. could this woofer be fake? ive noticed most pictures have the cone design that orion (skateboard company) uses while mine has the letters re. still with the design of an fi sub or ssa with the spider cage though. 3. whats the deal? its definatly right from the cone. i can also hear it from the port. but it sounds great outside of this rattling type sound. no distortion, no stuggling with any notes and no smells after having it on for a while and having my nose to the port. ive read the paper rustling sound is probably a burnt vc. but i cant take the sub out w/o an answer to #1 and i dont smell anything. sub might still need some break in time, but it sounds like every other sub when i tap on it. and when i push down it goes down pretty easy, and doesnt seem too stiff. but like i said its brand new so its should be a little stiff i assume. 4. seeing as how im definatly past warranty, bought it from a crap website and it might be blown/fake... what would fit directly in the enclosure i have? i used t nuts ( the things you hammer in) so it need the same specs for mounting depth and cicumference and for the mounting screw holes to match up. i cant find a se 10 anywhere that has the older style cage and isnt from dealer cost. would an fi, ssa, aa sub match mounting wise? anyone that can help will be greatly rewarded... with a big ol thank you!!

If your interested in type x comps ill have a set in the for sale section soon. They are bnib.

Ok thanks. Ill have to wait for the sub to figure that out... unless someone has an AA havoc on hand and wants to measure for me ; ). I'm pretty sure there's a pole vent in the pics on the aa site.

I was just wondering how much space between the end of the driver to the wall of the enclosure is sufficient? Meaning what wont hurt the driver or sq/ spl. I'm thinking of a 15" havoc ported. The xmax spec is 30 mm if that matters. Thanks in advance and merry Christmas to all.

What kind of electrical upgrades, deading and front stage do u have in mind? Ill have to agree with mark on the wow factor... plus it SHOULD be a bit louder. Wish I had money for this kind of build... maybe if I sell my car??? lol

Fi bl's or xcon's I haven't heard much good about Memphis so I'm sure either will be a huge upgrade