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Everything posted by oxsign
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On a strong 14v electrical, what can I expect? I have a 275 HO Alt, 3 YT, 4 runs of 1/0 (2+/2-). I've sold my MM 2K autotek and i'll be looking for another bigger amp shortly, and i'm kinda leaning towards this.
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Nice so far. How soon for another update?
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That's a nice one. That's probably the biggest i'd go with the box myself.
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A quick search will get you your answer.
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I'm working on pretty much the same setup for my truck with 2 10"s. I'll be doing the setup as down firing system with the port firing up.
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I'm redoing my box for 3-10" (or 3-12" not sure yet). Now currently my port is down low facing the dash. The current box is a TON louder with all the windows down vs up. I know this is normal sometime, but I don't like driving around disturbing everyone with them down, lol. So I was wondering if moving the port would help or make a difference? Port up with the subs, port back towards the back wall of the truck, or try it again with the new box faceing towards the dash again? Just an idea of what it looks like at this time. You can see the "box" at the bottom. It's an "semi-external" with 8" outside & 4" inside to save some space.
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I'm with you on that. The box I'm working on right now is a down firing box.
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Is it a problem? Space is limited in a crewcab. What suggestions do YOU have cause your post doesn't help at all.
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Sound Splinter Dual Rl-i8 setup with pics! :D (Advice please!)
oxsign replied to sotelomichael's topic in SoundSplinter
What are you going to ask for them? I just sold my 2. These things are starting to pop up everywhere, lol. I've seen 4 pr in the last month F/S. -
How to keep your box from crumblin to pieces...
oxsign replied to djjdnap's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
That box looks like it got wet, and it doesn't look like very much glue was used. I'd say that was the biggest problem. I've gotten in the 50s before with doing most the things and NEVER had an issue like that. -
I think maybe you should look for something else. Running a crescendo 3K and looking for numbers, you'd be better off with some SA-12, DC, etc. I hate to turn anyone away from an awesome sub, but your not looking for a great SQ sub. Your looking for a great daily beater, and these arent going to give you what your looking for in my opinion. Ive owned almost every sub Mike (Sound Splinter) has put out, but I think your looking for more SPL.
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They will get loud and sound good, but Unless you have that amp turned down your going to kill them. Do you own them already, or are you looking to buy them?
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No & No. Those amp are under rated, and those are SQ subs not SPL. I would'nt push them to that limit. It'd be a shame to blow them.
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In the right conditions I've given them 1200-1500, but they don't really need that much. A good 800-1K and these things can get loud and sound damn good doing it too. Also, in the right box/tuning these things are low end monsters. One of my all time favorite subs.
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You'll be very happy in the end. I had my 2 RL-p 18"s in a wall tuned to 32Hz and they KILLED the low end.
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There is not recone kit for these. You'll have to get a quote from PSI or elsewhere.
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You don't "HAVE" to go bigger. But I will say that they are low end monsters sealed as well. 3cubes will work just fine with them if that's the space you have. It's not going to be a major difference.
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These SS subs really don't like anything higher than 35Hz. They are SQ subs and low end monsters. I've had/ran almost every sub Mike has put out and after talking to him, a tad bigger and lower tuning has always worked best.
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I listen to mostly HipHop, and I had the best luck with them in 2 cubes each tuned to 34Hz..
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Does he have an amp yet?
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This is what I did. That solid piece will make the door very heavy. And I did mean to say round over the edges.
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Make sure to router the edges so it "flows" into the door panels better. Otherwise, good start.
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Yup, so the speakers could fit and not stick out so far. Just roll your window down all the way first to make sure they will clear without hitting. I screwed the door panel to the door first using flathead self tappers because as I mentioned it'll get heavy and those plastic things wont hold. Then I screwed the wooden panels to the door panels.
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I cut the flat peice that shapes the bottom of the panel out of 1/4" ply. Then I cut the oval ring out of 3/4" MDF. I used a 5" hole saw to cut out the sheetmetal behind the door panel. Then I put it all together. That was 2 mach5 audio 6.5" running off of a ZX300. It got nice and loud and sounded good doing it too.
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One of the things you'll have to be careful with is the fact that those door panels are only held on with those plastic plugs. If you make the panel to heavy you'll have to find another way to hold the panel to the door AND still make it look good/right.