swift

TTT Should I just use a single 200 or 250 under the hood by the battery and call it a day, will this be ok considering one is a 1500 V.2 without external fuses??

I would fuse to the amps or watts you plan on using unless it will exceed the wire. here is a good calculator to see what you need. go down to single phase and enter in watts and volts and it will give you what amps that will pull. http://www.jobsite-generators.com/power_calculators.html

Looks good! Is that a stinger fuse holder? I cant wait to start my build

I have always run red tops in my vehicles with no issues. I am running two of them now, we will see how they do once I put 2k watts through them.

What a beast!

And most likely just like the OP you would have been better off with the BL's and a different box. :bangshead: What makes you say that? I dont remember you chiming in on any thread I have made asking for opinions before.

Some of you guys should like this.

I would get these. 3/4-1in should be fine. Pre-drill your holes first. https://www.madisound.com/store/index.php?cPath=404_18

I had the same decision and went with the Q, I am also hoping to hammer the low notes, box will be tuned to 28 so we shall see. Good luck with your choice. I dont think either one will be a bad one.

Just ran across this old school stuff. I was banging this stuff hard back in the 90's. If you havent heard it you should definitely check them out.

Those batteries are junk, I just replaced one that was only 2 years old on a factory vehicle.

Thanks for the test results. The last sub amp I used was a RF Power Series and it was a beast. This go round I will be running a Sundown and from the reviews it doesnt look like they will disappoint. Thanks

If I do away with a slot port all together and do two 4in round ports and if I make them both going inside roughly 9.75-10in and the rest external I would have exactly 4 cubes and I could tune it to 28-32hz depending on how far the come out externally behind the seat. I would be hard to flare both sides though. How would this effect sound quality and would you rather have 4cu and aero's or 3.65cu and a slot port?

I have a question regarding port length and how to measure it in my application. I have decided on one 15in FI-Q in a downfiring ported console encloser for my truck. Question is: I have attached a photo of an example I did and I don't know how to figure the length. And also, how do I figure the port area and will this be enough for a 15in FI Q. A SA-1500v.2 will power the sub. The port will be 3.5in wide and 14.5 in tall (inside diameter) but how long will it be? Looking to tune at roughly 30hz and the box will have 3.65cu after displacement if this works. Is it A, B or C. Red would be airflow Thanks in advance

Here are the actual build graphs I created (crappy I know) just trying to figure it all out. Center console between the back bucket seats with the port running behind the driver side back seat. This is in my 07 F250 Harley Sorry for the bad photos Top View Side view port side I may 45 the corners but other than that how does this look? Setup will be a Alpine Multi Media head unit Alpine PDX 150.4 running 4 Alpine Type-R 5x7 coaxials in doors and 2 1in Rockford dome tweeters on pillars Sundown 1500v.2 running the FI-Q 15

well the Q says 28mm xmax and the port calculators say minimum 80in of port and I know I cant do that with a slot.... hmmm wtf do I do here?

I thought I kept seeing people recommend 12sqin of port per cuft of internal volume or something along those lines. This box will be a bitch to build and just want to do it right the first time. lol

Thanks, that looks like the only thing I forgot. 34.5 is correct. This looks like it will bring my tuning down to 28hz if the port is only 12.5 tall x 3.5 wide and would be 43.75 of port area based on 3.65 cubes internal volume. Will this be enough port area for this sub and the box size? I could try and give you measurements but its a goofy size and may be better to post another pic of what it actually looks like.

2 ported 10's would do the trick too and should hit harder than 1 ported 12.

Really curious of a review of how this setup sounds and if it hits the lows good. 2 of these in 2.5 cubes sealed could be my next setup. Thanks

FAIL.......LOL

Look around on the caraudio.com forum. You will find someone.

I will be making a order in the near future and trying to figure which is my best bet. This will be for 2 12in ICONS in a 3-3.5cu sealed setup. I will go copper coil but also wondering should I get the dual 1ohm or dual 2ohm. Also is a SAZ-1000 enough or should I go SAZ-1500. I would like to stay with one amp to power both subs. Thanks

Yeah the saz-1500d v.2 is still on pre-order for 400$ which is pretty good compared to the 500$ that it will be after the pre-order. @ OP If you decide to get the Saz-1500 v.2 make sure you have good enough electrical. Or any amp for that matter. Well, I have a Super Duty F250 that has a decent size alternator and two Optima Red Top's under the hood. I may add another alternator if I its required. Is there no difference between the SAZ-1500 v.2 and the other SAZ-1500? It doesnt really matter if it doesnt get here for a month. I am telling my wife all this can be my Christmas gift. lol.

Thanks You! Maybe I will order the SAZ-1200 then, lol.