swift

I may do the top that way but I cant on the sides because the box is at max dimensions and would press on the sides of each seat pretty good. Worked on the box about 6 hours yesterday. Measuring, drawing, cutting and had so much MDF dust on me it was hard to tell what color my clothes were. Today I have 2 more cuts to make and will glue and screw the box together. I will post build pics this afternoon.

I think I may have to take a front seat and center console out just to install the sub after the box is in place, haha It really isnt as bad as the pics look. But it will be large, It is perfect height for an arm rest as you can see it almost matches the front A look at what kinda room I have to work with. port goes behind seat on right, amp rack behind left seat I will start tomorrow and hopefully have sound by Sunday

Thanks, Nope, all clear. And when I lean it forward there is enough room to adjust the settings too. It even clears the dist box with the seat all the way back. Did another cutout tonight for final measurements out of cardboard. This phucker is huge! LOL I may just carpet it with the leather Harley arm rest on top? I have a hookup at a furniture store to get Black sofa leather but will have to wait a couple weeks for it to come in. Thoughts?

me too, lol Thanks

HEAVYLIFTER76 I mainly play COD Black Ops Team Deathmatch

Thanks, I like the orange also, wish the had kept making them.

Well another late night but all wiring is done, Big 3 is done. Only thing left to do is build the box and hook up the sub. She is ready though. I suck at documenting each step but here are pretty much the finished photos. I will put the back seats in this weekend once the box is built. Big 3 pics, I left all stock wiring and just added 1/0 to everything/ I really like these Monster Cable terminals! driver side batt passenger side batt, it has the additional ground coming off the side terminal mount that you cant see Here is a few misc pictures also showing the whole setup. Head unit also showing Beltronics radar detector mounted in dash. Hands free Bluetooth and Nav Mics in corner pass side Got the Memphis tweeters mounted, crossovers in doors. Sundown gain knob mounted Here is the rear setup, once the seats go in you will not see anything. and the box will but up against the right side of the amp rack and run to the other wall. I am really pleased how this all turned out. Pic shows, sundown amp, distr box, alpine pdx 4.150, alpine modem, power inverter for laptop, etc. Now I have to go get 4 hours of sleep and head to work. Only thing left is to add the bass! Thanks for looking and any comments welcome

With the sub in there the volume is less, same goes for the port also. You always subtract sub, port, bracing etc when doing figures.

Thanks, I am curious how the sub will sound. My friend that has been in car audio for 15 years thinks it will sound better in the back seats because the sub will be almost in the center of the truck right between the front seats almost. But I am hoping that the port in the rear corner will help with that.

Welcome to the forum!

LOL, thanks I love the truck in your avatar! I looked at buying one of those for awhile and eventually bought a SRT-10 Truck. I did buy a set of those 23in Saleen wheels and put on my wifes Expedition. Looks good

I have a new 15in Q that will be going into roughly 3.5cu after port and displacement. Would it be ok to use one 6in round port with flared ends? Looking for 28-29hz tuning. I can do 43.75sq in with a 3.5 x 12.5 slot port but the box will be much more difficult to build. Which would sound better? This will be a console style box, sub forward and port will fire into the side wall.

I thinks its all personal preference unless competing which I never plan on doing. I like sound coming from all around me and have always tried to have my rear setup keep up with the front. But again, thats my preference.

It wouldnt take away low end, its just best suited for a sealed encloser. I am going portedbut I love the way sealed sounds too.

Sounds like a great plan, I have one sitting in the house waiting to install and its a beast. I think it is around 45lbs, lol. Very impressive driver for sure. Good luck with it and let us know how it sounds!

Thanks, Well, looks like I am either stuck with going with two 4in ports or a slot port. There is not enough room behind my back seat for a flared 6in port, well maybe at the very bottom if 8in is enough. Only have maybe 5.5-6in at the top, definitely not room for two 6in ports. Plus they would have too be long as hell. Honestly I went with a Q because I listen to a wide range of music and not just rap, wanted good clean sound and am not too concerned about running people out of the truck. For output solely I would have went with two 12's. I wanted to to tune it low because I like the lower notes to be much stronger than the higher notes (50hz up I dont care for unless its a punchier kick drum in rock). BUT, I still want the output to be impressive. Not sure if my decision was correct on the sub but its what I got and I am sure it will suit me just fine. When I was younger I definitely would have wanted some BTL's. Anyway, here is my two designs I have chosen. Again, this will go in as a center console between my back bucket seats in my F250 work truck, lol. The port runs behind the seat. Slot port version, you can see this one will be alittle more difficult because the front will need to drop down to get more airspace because of the port. The round port version. In this, the wood on the port side is just bracing. Also it will be easier for me to build because its basicalli a wedge box that I will cut hole for the ports. Oh and thanks about my dog, he is my buddy. 12months old, 22in tall and 80lbs. I will start a build log maybe next week. Any opinions welcome.

Thanks, I did read back on some things. Looks like sound will not be affected. Now I am just wondering if one 6in will be enough or two 4in would be better. Looks like length would be around 22in in either app so that would work great if I can do it.

I just bought about 50ft of the Knu OFC in 1/0 and another 10ft of the 4ga. Looks to be great quality and easy to work with. I also purchased some 10ga speaker wire and it looks huge! The jacket is as big as the 1/0...lol. Its easy to worry to much when making a buy like this, just pick something out all copper and be done with it. Also if it is the new sa1500v.2 you may want to run a 150 amp fuse near the amp since it doesnt have them. Atleast thats what I was recommended to do.

I have a Alpine PDX 4.150 that I want to run my mids and highs with. I currently have 4 Alpine R 5x7's and would like to add an additional set of 1in dome tweeters on the pillars. How would I go about wiring that up? Thanks

I had a down firing sealed setup that sounded great, besides home setups I havent heard a ported one yet. I almost went that direction in my truck and curious how that would sound.

Well with the full range coming from down on the doors I just wanted alittle more up top. Would the crossovers that come with them not be enough? Worst case I guess I could sell them and buy components ......

Is the BL that big of a difference compared to the Q? From the videos and reviews I have seen the Q can get pretty loud.

Found this...... Looks perfect for what I want to do. For 12 bucks looks like a deal http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_26594_Tsunami-FDB9002M-ANL.html

How many in-line fuse holders do I need? 1/0 from front to a Stinger T splitter (http://www.woofersetc.com/p8033/SPD512--Stinger-1-0-Gauge-Tee-Distribution-Block.htm) and 1/0 going to SAZ-1500, and 4ga going to a Alpine PDX 4.150. I am going to order a Stinger 150 to go between the SAZ amp and the T and a 60amp to go between the Alpine amp and the T Do I also need a 250 amp inline up front under hood or is that overkill? Thanks

OK, thanks, based on that I do need to run 3 fuses. One at each amp and one main at the batt. Because I havent seen a junction fuse box that has 1/0 outs.