swift

That would make sense had I ever actually heard the regular song in my truck or on a system, LOL

Looking forward to trying the "On my level" Gotta feeling thats gonna be slappin,

For the record that clipping goes away once your amp lowpasses it...that 0.3dB is just on the vocals I do rebass some stuff but I prefer just slowing it cause I prefer how it sounds slowed, that and rebassing is a wicked PITA since I do it by hand in audacity (including completely remaking the kicks). Yep, takes me like one hour per song or more if I add treble, lol sucks

Gonna try a bunch of these low hitters, thanks

Dayum

Any trades?

The amp is a beast, Thanks

Gonna be adding a couple more runs of this 2/0 I got. This is stage cable for concerts and is much better than standard welding cable. Its very nice to work with, pinky finger flexible, LOL Here it is next to my Knuconceptz 1/0 OFC Small video of the subs beating my truck up, I think the rear window seal is about toast.

LOVE that blue matte!!

Depends on the music you listen to. If you listen to primarily rock then I would go two of the high qts sealed. Two 12's sealed would give more output over a larger range than one 12 ported. But if all you listen to is rap, dub step, pop, etc then one ported would be the way to go. Just my opinion

I have to agree. I am running the Rockford 6.5's and FT1 tweeters but the mids keep up with the tweeters much more than I expected. I will be also adding two 8's to my doors as well and selling my PWX8's. Although the Rockford tweeters are pretty big the mids are shallow would fit doors without major modding. Good review

Did the same with my last order, I emailed them and asked and received one when it shipped. I wouldnt worry

For your space I would use 12's. You have the room as those subs call for 2cuft each ported. They will cost about the same, hold the same RMS but have more output with the larger cone area. This is just a quick sketch but would be a killer sounding box in a truck as it would load well in each corner. Its 4.15cu tuned at 33.5hz with 54in of port. No need for double baffle with couple smart bracing dowels and also the port helps bracing also. It will take someone with a fair amount of skills to build correctly but is still a easy design. Outside dimensions are 43in W - 10.5in D - 27.75in H using 3/4in wood (disregard the 23.5H on paper) Port on each side is 3.5in tall x 9in wide, the center port is the combined 7in wide. Other can check my math but Im close if not dead on. My numbers are after bracing, sub displacement and 45's Good luck and get other opinions but this is mine.

Ever get it fixed?

Watching the Titans game, I'll check things out when I get some free time later. Patience young man maybe someone will ninja it and design something quicker. I'm old and slow, lol

That shit looks intense!! Hard to keep a straight face when something is beating that hard.

Let me play around and check some deminsions

I would do subs forward and a port at the bottom on each side. This will help brace box too. Port would look like a upside down T if you could see through the box with subs on each side facing forward. Would be different and sound great.

Several options if so, subs forward, slot port up in center or across the back the length or on one side. Subs up or forward and port to the driver or pass side..... either will sound good

This?

Go to photobucket.com and load them up and you can post them here. Or just in advanced reply go to add attachment and add them to the thread. What kind of truck?

Do you think a small company has someone just watch emails? They should be returning emails daily, especially this kind. If you get 20 emails a day, how many will you have if you wait days and days to look at them? Thats ALOT of unhappy people. Not a good way to run a business. FWIW I have always recieved a return email within 24-48hrs. Even when I had BS questions.

Biggest problem with a DD1 is people do not understand how to use it honestly. I have one that was given to me as a gift from a customer and I tried it on my sub amp. After going through all the steps the gain ended back up exactly where I had set it by ear, LOL. I could not use it on my mids and highs amp because it would overpower them and I would blow shit up. 300watts rms >160 watt tweeters lol. Thats the biggest issue. If you have a xxxx watt amp you cannot use it to set the gain on something that cannot handle that many watts. By ear in real time is just more reliable I think. Good luck to the OP

lol, exactly

Man I may want to add one of these to the arsenal. 209 is a killer deal. I would have to put this under hood.