swift

None without doing pods or panels, maybe try a single 8 or single 10. I can go with a sealed bolt on pod or a bolt on IB panel if its a small Neo motor maybe. Looking at 18sounds but the qts is super low

****, haha

Ok, I bought some ID cd Ultra's with ID mini horns. So it begins, lol

I'm almost certain I will take one or bot of these. I am fixing to do a build for a friends 55 Chevy pickup truck. I will be going by to measure today and will let you know.

Oops just noticed this. That was copy and pasted from crutchfield. All 4 speaker plugs are included with this amp. I am missing two of those plastic caps you see that are not installed in the pics. Probably in my garage somewhere.

Thanks

Good point, he can't. (2) 8ohm speakers run parallel = 4ohm load. Does that effect the way the speaker plays at all. Will a speaker have the same quality throughout its freq range if wired that way is the question Let's back up a second. These drivers you keep referring to as "8ohm speakers." Are these the horns your talking about, or midbass drivers? I was presuming horns since you haven't picked a definite set of horns, and therefore hadn't picked a midbass driver yet. If horns, then why would you wire two together, as that would create mono--unless you decided to use 2 per side, and 4 total--which makes no sense. If your taking about using multiple midbass drivers than I retract my previous statement about not being able to do it. My other point was: if your using your headunit for active processing then it doesn't matter what ohm load anything is, the crossover points will not be effected. You know if you simply answered my question instead of asking more questions or trying to figure out what I'm doing this would all be much simpler. What if I want to run my front stage off of a 2 channel amp? Then wouldnt it make sense to run a 8ohm tweeter and a 8ohm mid in parallel at a 4ohm load with the appropriate crossovers in place to do so? And if you did that would the tweeter still play at the same quality as it would if it was wired separately at 8ohms? No it would make sense to buy a four channel amp, and use one channel per driver. Left horn = 1, right horn = 2, left mid = 3, right mid = 4. Putting the left horn + left mid on one channel, and using inline crossovers to separate the signal is a bad idea. You wouldn't be able to adjust the power or gain between the horns and mids, and the impedance change would mess with the crossover design. It literally makes no sense at all to attempt the latter. Its was a real simple question that cant get answered because you are trying to hard too figure out how or what I am doing. It really is a yes or no question. Does a 8ohm speaker play the same wired to 4 ohms as it does at 8ohms? Forget the crossover point, the power, etc. You can't wire one 8ohm speaker to 4ohms, but if you could with magic than it would have the same frequency response. If you wired one 8ohm speaker with another 8ohm load to achieve 4ohms, and the speaker was relying on an inline crossover network that was designed for 8ohms, than the speaker would have a different frequency response due to a change in crossover points. Your like a whiny kid asking if cars run on diesel, but don't want to hear anything regarding a gasoline engine or diesel engine. I never said you can run one single 8ohm speaker to 4ohm. I even said 2 of them parallel the first time you said it. I never said I would run a horn on the same channel as a mid, hell my "example" even says tweeter. not horn but do you honestly think I am that fuckin stupid not to know you cant adjust power between two speakers being run of the same channel. But people do it everyday with components, same thing. See, you never came into this thread offering any advice or help until you found something to disect or disagree with. Maybe my question was a dumb one or you just didnt have enough common sense to understand it, But either way you can go fuck yourself and troll someone else's thread.

Thank you, correct it has nothing to do with my topic. When looking at mids I have noticed that the 8ohm version has different t/s parameters than the 4ohm version. One may have a high qts that would make it better for IB and the other has a low qts making it not ideal for IB. I just wondered if you had more than one 8ohm version ran parralel that it would throw off the t/s parameters. Like I said, it may have been a stupid noob question. Dont know why it was so difficult. Thanks

Once again. Why so many questions to my question? No I won't run 4 horns, yes I'm running active, no I'm not running passive now, yes I have a 4 channel amp. LMAO it's just a question Take 2 of the same speakers, . Take a 8ohm speaker and the same speaker in the 4ohm version. The 8ohm version has a qts of .50 and fs of 82 but the 4ohm version has a qts of .34 and a fs of 80. If I wire that 8ohm version to 4ohm does it affect the t/s numbers?

Good point, he can't. (2) 8ohm speakers run parallel = 4ohm load. Does that effect the way the speaker plays at all. Will a speaker have the same quality throughout its freq range if wired that way is the question Let's back up a second. These drivers you keep referring to as "8ohm speakers." Are these the horns your talking about, or midbass drivers? I was presuming horns since you haven't picked a definite set of horns, and therefore hadn't picked a midbass driver yet. If horns, then why would you wire two together, as that would create mono--unless you decided to use 2 per side, and 4 total--which makes no sense. If your taking about using multiple midbass drivers than I retract my previous statement about not being able to do it. My other point was: if your using your headunit for active processing then it doesn't matter what ohm load anything is, the crossover points will not be effected. You know if you simply answered my question instead of asking more questions or trying to figure out what I'm doing this would all be much simpler. What if I want to run my front stage off of a 2 channel amp? Then wouldnt it make sense to run a 8ohm tweeter and a 8ohm mid in parallel at a 4ohm load with the appropriate crossovers in place to do so? And if you did that would the tweeter still play at the same quality as it would if it was wired separately at 8ohms? Its was a real simple question that cant get answered because you are trying to hard too figure out how or what I am doing. It really is a yes or no question. Does a 8ohm speaker play the same wired to 4 ohms as it does at 8ohms? Forget the crossover point, the power, etc. Example answer 1.... Yes, it doesnt matter what ohm load its wired to it will still play the exact way it was designed. Example answer 2..... No, if you wire a 8ohm tweeter or mid to 4ohm it will throw off its fs and could effect performance. Thats all I was asking. Nothing more, nothing less. Maybe the question was simply too stupid to even answer. lol

All the recommended specs are "net" or after all displacements

Good point, he can't. (2) 8ohm speakers run parallel = 4ohm load. Does that effect the way the speaker plays at all. Will a speaker have the same quality throughout its freq range if wired that way is the question

That wasn't the question guys, I'm not worried about trying to throw more power at them. I'm asking if I needed to split channels and they where wired at 4ohms does that change the characteristics of how they play frequency wise. Example, if you have a crossover that is rated at 8 ohms to say 3khz, an it's wired to 4ohms you may have changed the crossover point to say 4.5khz by doing so. I understand channel separation. Never have I had anything bridged so the entire front plays mono. Thanks and I will check with Eric Stevens

Ok question, If I do get nice HLCD's do I need to keep them at 8ohm in wiring to keep them at there rated freq responses? If I wire them down to say 4ohms at the amp will this change the way they act kinda like a crossover does? My amp makes plenty of power at 8 ohms so that's not a huge concern. Also does installation under dash need to keep them level off axis facing my shins or tilted up on axis facing my head? After doing some reading I may actually try to get this thing to be loud as piss an still sound desirable to SQ people. I actually like a lot of different music so maybe I won't be so hard headed and try to do this the right way here. At this point I have roughly 8k in this system. No sense pissing away the front stage. I slept an let the guy sell the linked stuff so if anyone has opinions on higher or middle end HLCD's that would be great. Budget is around 400.00 maybe.

The Saz1500 is a perfect match for that sub Or the Crescendo Bc2000. If you only only getting one sub then you want a D2

After hours and hours of labor I basically have the copper power fuse blocks, copper ground block, battery terminals, and XS bus bars done. I will have to run jumpers on the Die Hard batteries unless I buy wide copper buss bars but I dont think its needed. Jumpers will go parallel and will also have runs going straight to fuse block and ground block/frame from each battery too. After spending hours among hours doing all this shit myself its very rewarding when each step is done. Pics No I can finally start cutting on the truck and running all the 2/0 under truck and up into bed / tool box, through the floor into cab and get the blocks mounted, amps mounted. Then I can focus on the front stage.

Really considering grabbing these hlcd's while they are available. From research these seem like very good quality? Any reason not to? If I do I will run either single 8 or single 10's in the doors... Maybe....

4 sa15's will be loud as hell if done right. That would be my pick

Nice vid

Damn what monsters!! I cant wait to see what these do once people get there hands on them. These look perfect for someone like me that wants a low tuned air moving wind tunnel.

The pioneer 80prs is all the processing I plan on running. After looking in my truck putting the hlcd's should'nt be a problem

Thanks I will look into it

Oh I thought the Beyma's pictured had the horn already attached to it. How do those mids look though? I will look at the HLCD's. where can I look at maybe purchasing some. I need to do some measuring but I'm open minded.

Well, I wish I could sit in one of these cars with multiple pro audio speakers up front and mess with the settings and see if I like it, but unless I drive to Florida I don't see that happening. Lmao There has to be a way to get louder without completely sounding like shit. I could try a single 8 and super tweeter in each door and see if that does it but I just cont see me being content with it. The location will need to be the doors unless I could do a single tweeter on axis in the a pillar with the midranges in the doors. Loud and clear is goal, forget any kind of "stage" I'm not at a concert and don't care if it sounds like its coming from a band sitting on my hood. Yes overkill is the goal here. What about these monsters. But where would they go? http://profesional.beyma.com/ingles/pdf/WL5.pdf http://profesional.beyma.com/ingles/pdf/WL4Fe.pdf Are these good? http://profesional.beyma.com/ingles/pdf/8P300Fe.pdf

These are the copper bars I got in to use as my fuse blocks. They were suppose to be 2in wide but these are only 1.5in wide. I still think this will work. I have a 3rd bar that will be used for the ground block. 6 runs of power to the block from battery bank and 4 runs going to amps and 1 run to the 4 channel. Bad thing is I cant run dual inputs on the amps unless I double up lugs. These will be mounted on pass side when you open the rear doors for easy access. The ground block will have 5 runs coming off the amps and 4 2/0 runs from there going to the frame where they meet the 4 ground runs off the battery bank. I hope this will be efficient. This will be mounted on the driver side when you open the rear door aswell.