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Well, the filming sucks to really tell much, looks stout though! But if its a Team only sub who really cares much.

I will try to be there. I coach a softball team on Saturday's but maybe someone can fill in for me. haha

The look on someones face when a massive burnout occurs is priceless. Launch control in a Murci is just pure hell. Push a button.... Peg throttle and hold the fuck on! It quick revs and launches at about 5-6k rpm wide open. With TC off it just acts a complete fool. You never think one of these could launch that hard. I

The Grey one

I drove the black one and him the white one that day twin turbo 1500rwhp orange one another white one

scroll up,

True, thats why he has had 2 white ones, a orange one, a matte grey one, and 2 black ones. And 4 Porsche Turbo S's. lol. I like have liked all of them. I posted some pics of them in the photo section in a thread awhile back. But honeslty a Porsche isnt much more practical if you can afford either one. Same space either way. A Gallardo is nice for daily driving if you really wanted too. Has good ground clearance, raise the front with a push of a button to get over large speed bumps, etc.

Cool, sounds fun. Thats alot of money out each event though to enter each class. Sounds like my kind of thing. Goos luck with it and create a build log. I have my second Meca event this year on Sunday at Freezefest. Should be a fun day

Well if your not concerned with classing then go with alot of power, 2 18's and run M4. That would allow some big power to be used and should meet your goals. I'm still not famiiar with bobos, what is that again?

I have a 2008 Murcielago LP640 in my garage right now. Unfortunately it threw the drive belt off and my friend had to leave it here. We tried for hours to get it back on. Getting to the idler pulley in one of these is a BITCH. Looks good in there though. Maybe one day... LOL

For a blow through to do that I would go with probably 4 15's and atleast 6k watts. Not the same obviously because I have a low tuned street type setup but I did a 150 headrest and a 128 PP with 2 18's on about 4k. I also did a 153 headrest 131 PP with 3 18's on 5k. remember you will be in a Mod class because of the blow through. So think about cone area + fuse rating x10 = class your in.

This is gonna sound awesome!!

Hope it turns out better than the one that caught fire. Haha

The is a good friends truck. He gave me free run to do a what I want in his truck, I am keeping the budget for the entire build to $1500 or so. It already has a Kenwood headunit under the bench seat where it will stay and be operated by remote. The goal will be to leave the interior as is basically. It has a very small battery behind the seat which I may relocate to the bed if he will let me. 55 Chevy 3100 series. 350 2 barrel, automatic, Monte Carlo frame I believe, bagged with 4 switches, frame is notched and the bed floor raised to hide the air tank, compressor and wheel tubs. Its a bad ass fun truck. The goal is simply to get a nice sound in it. Nothing crazy but fairly loud and sound good. This is behind the seat. I was thinking of doing either one 12in Dcon or a couple 10's. Bottom depth is around 9in and top depth is maybe 5in (outside measurements) Width is no issue. One set of components will go in some kick pods I will make. It has the perfect space to make nice pods. So here are my thoughts. He listens to mainly Rock, 80's, 90's and some newer Pop music. Not alot of rap if any at all. Electrical....It will all run on stock electrical but I will do a nice 4 guage amp kit. I will also replace that small battery with maybe a D3400. Amp... Since I am not using my Alpine PDX 4.150 I will may just sell it to him and it will be good because it doesnt draw alot of current. So 150rms x 2 (4 ohms) for front components and 300rms x 1 (4 ohms) bridged to power the sub (s). Front Stage... A nice 6.5 Component set. Undecided so far, needs to be clean and be able to get loud. Opinions? Sub... maybe a single 12 Dcon or 2 (10's) of them sealed. Depth is a issue. Any good shallow subs? Sound Deadner.. I will be doing the entire cabin except the roof in Second Skin Damplifier Pro, the Floor will also get Luxury Liner on top of the damp pro. It sounds very hollow in there now and alot of road, engine and exhaust Noise. I will fix that. I am open to opinions. I think I will cover the pods in either bed liner or just settle with carpet. This is a Rat Rod, lol. Box will be done the same.

Looks loud! Congrats!

1 cube sealed is what is recommended for a 12. Not a 10, thats why i said buy 12's. Dont buy new boxes, if its truely 1cu net then cut the hole out bigger. Your not going to get "low" with small sealed boxes in a Convertible! Your showing up to the drag strip with a red Yugo with bald tires, wondering why your not fast asking if the Blue yugo will be faster. Buy 12's, use same boxes....

Going from entry level subs to entry level subs is not a good bang for your buck. You need 12's in that size sealed anyway. Buy 12's, that's your upgrade.

I dont think either would be a upgrade from CVR's. Both are entry level subs. That would be a waste of money IMO. Build a ported box for the CVR's.

I dont think it will matter, you wont hear a difference. Strapping amps is alot easier as the main amp controls both.

Well technically its not a Rod at all. Its a truck. But it is sorta a ratty type of build, just has a couple comforts, (heat / air, system, carpet) Alot of the nicer rat builds you see have the vintage air in them. Especially the ones that do the long trips. There is nothing "cool" about sweating your balls off if you dont have to. lol Not sure what you mean about the A/C panel? Its was already done prior, just need to put back on the one vent on the drivers side.

Pods are done and installed, they sound incredible being in these sealed pods, very nice mid bass, the tweeters are rotated upward towards the center of the cab. Box is in, gonna just hook up my DD SS2 amp on the sub for now and run pods off head unit till I get my 4 channel issue figured out. I will have it done tonight. This weekend we replaced alot of rubber gaskets around the doors, windows, fenders, etc. So the actual system part have been slow. I am really happy with how my first fiberglassing venture did. I have always stuck with the box building and stock location installs. I feel confident to do others now.

If you still have lugs on the power and ground tape is fine. That alt doesnt make much at all at idle, if its doing 109 @1500 then at a stop light its probably doing 50 @ 800rpm. Not enough to be thinking it will be able to with stand a load from the stereo. Not sure what your expecting out of it. The regulator will decide what voltage it will rest at, the alt power will decide how much it can hold it there under a load.

No way to really know the answer. I would say 35hz would be the common answer here. I always try to build to what will sound best to MY ears, then if it gets loud and is competitive its just a plus. Comps are for fun anyways....