jjcross45

So i had 2 l7 12s under my back seat... it was weak... so i took the backseat out and i told my buddy brian to build me a box (brian owns and manages evolutiuons car audio Lone Grove, OK) but anyways, i was expecting a huge box, instead he said 2 ported boxes at 3.3 cub would create the loudest setup at all possibilities. ill be pushing the l7s with a kicker 1500.1 zx. how loud am i looking? as far as DB wise... and was his plan correct??

i need some feedback about DB wise please

Would a Kicker 750.1 zx be an ideal amp for a 15" 4 0HM L7?

yes sir. thanks for advice

probably 2 ohm

well see i already have a zx1500 pushing 2 l7s so i figured id ask

I finally got my system bought and all put together today!! 2 2 0hm 12 inch L7s Kicker zx 1500 streetwires powerstream 0/1 300A anl fuse optima redtop so the problem is... i turn my truck on, system turns on fine, as i turn the bass up, it shuts off, i turn it down, it gradually comes back on after a few seconds. And does the same thing each time. i grounded it to the seatpost bolt ( which i found out briefly agok, IS NOT ATTACHED TO THE FRAME) i Wired the subs down to 1 ohm each, equalling a 2 ohm load, but the weird thing is, is that the12volt.com said to wire it one way (for 2 ohm load) and kicker said to wire another way?????? so i went with this way- as oppossed to the kicker way. Why is my amp shutting off? bad ground? bad amp? bad wiring? please help

i had a blown speaker this entire time cause im a dumbass

i really wanna add a secondary battery asap. and my alt is 105 i believe. there is 4 terminals on the sub, i wired it neg with white dot to red without dot. and red with dot and black without to amp. on both subs. could this be an issue?

the redtop is the main, i have no auxillary, and no on the big 3

excuse me. thats the picture i actually meant to post,

im looking to buy an amp (preferably under 400) thats gonna push two 2 ohm l7s, each wired down to 1 0hm. whats my best investment? need wisdom....

does it make a difference using 10 gauge speaker wire and 14, as far as performance goes? running to L7s off a kicker 1500.1

im running 0 gauge, from redtop, to a kicker 1500. which the battery terminals are 2 i believe. more or less, am i gonna be using power if i use gauge reducers?

that tells me everything

im looking to get a AudioPipe 3000.1 D, but unfortunately, and for the weirdest reasons, i cant seem to find quality pictures of one. Could someone post a link? or a picture set? i would be extremely greatful!!!!!

I was hoping for more...

im a little confused.... everyone tells me the AP 3000.1 is stable @ 2 ohms, but the AP catalog says one... gimme some real feedback

i need a 2 OHM amplifier, obviously kicker makes the best of the bunch. but i need a good lead to a cheaper 2 ohm amplifer, company, or just model

so i could wire 2, 2 OHM dual voicecoil kicker L7 12s to it easily? correct (just asking the stupid questions so i dont make the stupid mistakes)

im a little confused, audiopipe is saying that they are 1 ohm stable. wtf

i agree the prices are astounding. (compared to kicker) but if you (shizzon) thinki should go for the audiopipe i cant disagree, i just dont want any regrets, and i sure as hell want my subs to hit

sounds great, and it may be more bang for the buck but id like a legit comparison, it honestly sounds great but i want the real deal

between the kicker and the audiopipe, which one is gonna push harder? and is the audiopipe stable at 2 ohms?

400 being my maximum budget, 1500-3000 @ 2 ohms, no size constraints, no features that stand out that are necsesarry, and 2 dual voicecoil 2 ohm 12 inch kicker l7s in a slant truckbox.and currently,0 gauge streetwires, 300A fuse, optima redtop, stock alt, and plan to add auxillary redtop.