Ginobli07

I've been trying to figure out some theoretical expectations from a few subs using Winisd. I want to use a sealed enclosure, but I can't figure anything out with the SSD (12 inch Dual 2 ohm) until I know the higher qts. Does anyone know what it is? Hopefully I'm not being dumb and just can't find it. I know the Qts is figure by using the Qes and Qms numbers, so which ever changed would be helpful too.

I didn't officially weigh mine. It's just what the shipping label said. LOL Thank you, LOL! Anyways, my blown JL 12W6 only weighs 20Lbs. Wow! These Fi subs are on steroids. They also take an extra 400 to 900 rms, so it's all relative. I'm going to be trying a 13W6v2 soon, and I'll give you a review if you are looking for one. Sure, post some video clips too...The W6's subs aren't meant to be pushed too much when it comes to power handling. I guess that's the reason why JL came up with their monster W7's subs. I can't wait to get my Fi Q12. I want to match it with a clean amp about 0.1 - 0.05% T.H.D. ported or sealed?

I didn't officially weigh mine. It's just what the shipping label said. LOL Thank you, LOL! Anyways, my blown JL 12W6 only weighs 20Lbs. Wow! These Fi subs are on steroids. They also take an extra 400 to 900 rms, so it's all relative. I'm going to be trying a 13W6v2 soon, and I'll give you a review if you are looking for one.

I didn't officially weigh mine. It's just what the shipping label said. LOL

That is what my pos Silverado had and it had NO problems with more power than you are asking. I ran JL power hog amplifiers as well. 1000/1 and 450/4. Correctly wired and voltage drops were far from an issue. And definitely remove the cap, it is hurting not helping. Sounds good! I'm looking at new wiring right now. School is done in three days, than let the fun begin.

I own a 2003 sunfire which currently has a 105amp alternator. I was looking to run about 1300rms off it, but I know the alternator isn't big enough. The problem I'm having is that I can't find anyone who builds a high output alternator for my car, and I looked into getting it rebuilt, but I can't do that either. I don't know what to do. Are there any specialists for problems like this, or am I screwed?

Was that 1500 watts RMS or peak? Idle or driving? What gauge wire did you use to the trunk? Big Three?

At idle? or at driving RPM's?

I looked online at there sites. No dice I have found one now, but it's $500 (275 amps; wayyy overkill). The original part number for my alternator is 334-1468 (AC Delco). If anyone is feeling ambitious would you mind helping me look please? The site I found was this: HO Alternator

Long explanation, but really helpful

Okay I'll check it out

Okay. I have dual wires running off my alternator now (8awg stock (goes to the starter than to the battery) and 4awg (straight to the battery)). I would think that would be more than enough with a 105 amp alternator. The grounds are redone too. Wouldn't 1/0awg be complete overkill?

No it wouldn't hurt. Lol. Why should I take the cap out? The Alt is the power source for your car, the more batteries, caps you have in your car the more work the alt has to do as it has to charge all parts in the system. The usual reasoning for removing a cap is because you have enough power from your alt and enough reserve power in your battery to bridge most amperage draws. If upgrading your alt is not possible, then a bigger battery would be an alternative as it can deliver more amperage over a longer period of time versus a capacitor. Will transients or quality suffer if I took the cap out?

No it wouldn't hurt. Lol. Why should I take the cap out?

So I see Okay. I'm also thinking of a second battery.

Dumb question alert, where do you recommend testing with the DMM? At the amp, battery, etc...

More info: I currently have the 500/1v2 and the 300/4v2, as you can tell by my signature. I'm thinking of going to a 1000/1v2 or a RF T1500-1CP. If I add all the fuse ratings for the amps, 1000/1 and 300/4, it is 140amps, otherwise I don't know how to calculate. I can tell I need a little bit more power by the current output of my sub. It's still fairly new but it can take more power, up to 1000rms, so I wanted to give it all 1000. With my amp's, 500/1, gain set the way it is now I get voltage drops from 14.1 to about 12.5 (capacitor display) at idle (lights and blower motor on) on big notes. I have an 8 farad cap, 4awg power wire, an Optima yellow top battery, and the Big 3 done.

I looked online at there sites. No dice

I already have an Optima battery, not sure if a second one for reserve would help enough.

I currently have a 2010 Fi Q12 in a sealed box powered off of a JL 500/1v2. It sounds great, but I want to unleash the sub's full potential by giving it all of it's 1000rms rating. I plan on putting in a high output alternator, so suppling power isn't an issue. The sub is dual 2 ohm, so I can wire it to either 1 or 4 ohm. My question is: Is there a noticeable difference in sound quality if I push an amp at 1 ohm (if stable) vs 4 ohm? The reason I ask is because I was looking at Rockford Fosgate Power amps and the T1000 Constant Power was stable at 1 ohm to 1000rms, while the T1500 Constant Power was capable of 1000rms at 4 ohm. While money isn't a big concern I would find it pointless to buy a bigger and more expensive amp if I didn't need to. Thanks guys

No! with authority. :-) You have practical experience to back that up I take? Not with the Q personally but what I have read and what other members have said it is strictly a Sound Quality Subwoofer. You may want to look into The SSD, which I have experience with and that is a great all around subwoofer. Loud, low and still remains musical. If your stepping up in power then look into the BL or the big daddy BTL. I meant with the ohm load. I know about the sub, I already have the Q and I'm happy. I just want to fully unleash it, that's all.

The new 1500 Constant Power amps do 1000rms at 4 ohms. My mistake, didn't see the new model. That's different, an amp that does 1500watts at 2ohms or 1ohm... If you think you might want to upgrade your subwoofer down the road than I'd get an amp that makes even more power and then you'll have plenty of headroom (and since money isn't an issue ) /////Alpine baby PDX amps I was looking at the new PDX (1200rms) too. I figure the second series should have many of the original problems ironed out.

No! with authority. :-) You have practical experience to back that up I take?

The new 1500 Constant Power amps do 1000rms at 4 ohms.

The scale was right there so I figured I might as well weigh it. I'm curious to see how much my 12" Infinity Kappa Perfect weighs now. I can't wait to start building the box. I am putting this speaker in the corner of my trunk so that it takes up almost zero space. I will not sacrifice ANY trunk space this time around for my stereo. That's why I decided to try FI. Due to the power handling and tiny enclosure. I surely hope the speaker was worth the cost. Cost... Agreed. I have high hopes and everywhere I look I see good reviews. I'm going from a 10" ported (400rms) to a 12" sealed (500rms more if needed), so we'll see how that goes. I'm not going to make any assumptions. I've had plenty of sealed subs before though, so I'm not expecting to be taken by surprise or anything.