Ginobli07

I didn't officially weigh mine. It's just what the shipping label said. LOL Thank you, LOL! Anyways, my blown JL 12W6 only weighs 20Lbs. Wow! These Fi subs are on steroids. They also take an extra 400 to 900 rms, so it's all relative. I'm going to be trying a 13W6v2 soon, and I'll give you a review if you are looking for one. Sure, post some video clips too...The W6's subs aren't meant to be pushed too much when it comes to power handling. I guess that's the reason why JL came up with their monster W7's subs. I can't wait to get my Fi Q12. I want to match it with a clean amp about 0.1 - 0.05% T.H.D. ported or sealed?

I didn't officially weigh mine. It's just what the shipping label said. LOL Thank you, LOL! Anyways, my blown JL 12W6 only weighs 20Lbs. Wow! These Fi subs are on steroids. They also take an extra 400 to 900 rms, so it's all relative. I'm going to be trying a 13W6v2 soon, and I'll give you a review if you are looking for one.

I didn't officially weigh mine. It's just what the shipping label said. LOL

That is what my pos Silverado had and it had NO problems with more power than you are asking. I ran JL power hog amplifiers as well. 1000/1 and 450/4. Correctly wired and voltage drops were far from an issue. And definitely remove the cap, it is hurting not helping. Sounds good! I'm looking at new wiring right now. School is done in three days, than let the fun begin.

Was that 1500 watts RMS or peak? Idle or driving? What gauge wire did you use to the trunk? Big Three?

At idle? or at driving RPM's?

I looked online at there sites. No dice I have found one now, but it's $500 (275 amps; wayyy overkill). The original part number for my alternator is 334-1468 (AC Delco). If anyone is feeling ambitious would you mind helping me look please? The site I found was this: HO Alternator

Long explanation, but really helpful

Okay I'll check it out

Okay. I have dual wires running off my alternator now (8awg stock (goes to the starter than to the battery) and 4awg (straight to the battery)). I would think that would be more than enough with a 105 amp alternator. The grounds are redone too. Wouldn't 1/0awg be complete overkill?

No it wouldn't hurt. Lol. Why should I take the cap out? The Alt is the power source for your car, the more batteries, caps you have in your car the more work the alt has to do as it has to charge all parts in the system. The usual reasoning for removing a cap is because you have enough power from your alt and enough reserve power in your battery to bridge most amperage draws. If upgrading your alt is not possible, then a bigger battery would be an alternative as it can deliver more amperage over a longer period of time versus a capacitor. Will transients or quality suffer if I took the cap out?

No it wouldn't hurt. Lol. Why should I take the cap out?

So I see Okay. I'm also thinking of a second battery.

Dumb question alert, where do you recommend testing with the DMM? At the amp, battery, etc...

More info: I currently have the 500/1v2 and the 300/4v2, as you can tell by my signature. I'm thinking of going to a 1000/1v2 or a RF T1500-1CP. If I add all the fuse ratings for the amps, 1000/1 and 300/4, it is 140amps, otherwise I don't know how to calculate. I can tell I need a little bit more power by the current output of my sub. It's still fairly new but it can take more power, up to 1000rms, so I wanted to give it all 1000. With my amp's, 500/1, gain set the way it is now I get voltage drops from 14.1 to about 12.5 (capacitor display) at idle (lights and blower motor on) on big notes. I have an 8 farad cap, 4awg power wire, an Optima yellow top battery, and the Big 3 done.