realmofexcursion

^^ with alot of fabrication, tucking 26s can be done. you would have to cut your hood though haha. i agree with the lift though, easier to deal with and not as much. ive had both before, a bagged and bodied nissan hardbody. it was cool and all, but to much crap can go wrong. blow a bag here and there and it will start adding up

i mean, i was kinda thinking. and not trying to make myself sound great or toot my horn, but i can do some pretty nice glass work. i just dont know where all i can put some equipment. if i snap some pictures of my truck or give you the year and model, do you think you guys can help me out? i have a 95 GMC Sierra Ext. Cab.

oh, i was just putting a few pieces on to get it to stand up. i already have the sides and all that built. have some cross bracing on it. i just dont know if i want to give up all my cab room for all this stuff yet. im still thinking about it before i dump a couple grand into the system

Well, im not going to lie, this build might take longer then i really want. i have BIG plans for the setup im wanting to do. i plan on running 2 DC level 5 12s. Im also going to get a stetsom 7k amp to power them. the box is going to be 5.5ft^3 tuned to 32HZ. i already have all the port material, i just need to start cutting them. i am going to make 6 4" round ports. i will have 75 sq inches of port area. these are the only pictures i have as of right now. ill get more in depth tomorrow, seeing as im about to pass out now haha. to tired to really get to work tonight. here is the port material im going to be working with.

the subs are D2 coils. im not that great at wiring everything up, but couldnt i get both subs to go to the amp at 1ohm?

i dont know how much the stetsom 7k cost yet. i know it will probably be close to the same price as the SAZ4500d. i know i will have to put a couple of batteries in the truck, but it will be well worth it. im just trying to decide it the 4500d will be enough to get the lv512s moving.

ok guys,, i NEED HUGE HELP. should i go with a stetsom 7k amp? or should i just a Sundown 4500? either way it goes, i plan on dropping a good bit on the amp. Im kinda leaning towards the 4500 just because of all the good reviews on it. what should i do?

^^ its a 95 GMC Sierra. I traded my dad my old 99 Chevy Silverado single cab ONLY because i wanted more room to build the audio install i want. plus the truck has a brand new 350 in it

well. i finally got to start working on the "false floor" if you want to call it that. i still have alot to do, i only worked on it for about an hour today. i wanted to see if screwing the MDF was better then nailing. I think if you do it right, it is more sturdy and strong in the long run. i still need to do the side, i plan on keeping the seat mount post so i can take the system in and out. i plan on putting all the batteries etc etc under the platform itself. i just need to find a way to make it easier to access. i will more then likely finish it tomorrow, just cant promise it. enough with the talking, here are the pictures.

i layered resin then i put fiber while it was still wet then i put some more resin over the fiber then i let it dry if it was already kicking off, then you should be good. i just dont like to lay the mat down, then put the resin on. it starts to stretch the material and it takes more time sanding and bondoing(sp)

for your first time, i give you props. i was the exact same way when i tried to glass, i didnt quite know what i was doing. From experiece, i find working with woven mat instead of that type, extremely easy to deal with. It wont pull the strand of glass when you apply it to the fabric because it is woven together. I also think you get a much smoother surface to work with instead of fiber mat. So that means less sanding. Did you put a layer of resin on the fabric, let it get hard, then put a sheet over? or did you just put the glass sheet on the fabric, then started laying the resin?

im mainly going for active. for the mounting locations, im really wanting to do the door panels and kick panels. i can fit them in there once i glass the door panels and all. budget really isnt a problem, i just dont want to be spending a fortune on mid-bass. and thanks everybody for being patient with the build. i SHOULD start building the raised floor and all tomorrow.

forgot to ask eariler. what would be the best 6.5 mid-bass subwoofer to run? im looking to glass some door panels and the kick panels.

well. here are the pictures i promised yesterday. couldnt get them on here considering i got stuck out in the gulf of mexico in a boat haha. so that also means i couldnt get any MDF. anywho, here the the ports almost completed. i to finished rounding the edges over, and i think i might use some type of small router and see how that goes. i have around 76in^2 port area. which should be perfect.

haha oh yea. about $70 worth. have the pipe and everything cut. just need to get some pictures. should have them by the end of the day. forgot to mention, im going to be picking up 2 sheets of MDF today. i have to make a platform for the box, batteries, etc.. to sit on. then im going to start building the box.

well, ran into a small problem. i cant cut the ports quite yet. i have the wrong type of blade on the chop saw. i need to pick up another one.

i talked to a rep. at DC and he said i need 17inches of port area per cubic foot of airspace. how can i tell the port area of a round port? im going to be building 4, 4" in diameter ports, that will be tuned to 33HZ. the box is going to be 5cubes when its all done. i just dont know if i i will have enough port area to keep the port noise to a minimum. any help?

im going to be running 2 DC level 5 12s. he said that they normally dont do round ports, just slot ports. he said for every cubic foot of air, i would need atleast 17 sq inches of port area. i need atleast 85 sq. inches of port area.

haha, i think it was pretty pathetic for everyone trying to bash. it was a simple question. i didnt know where else to put the damn thread so i stuck it there? you have a problem with it, and if you cant give me the answer im looking for then what is the point in even opening the thread? oh. and i'd prefer round.

i know how to get the area of it. but i was talking about the entire thing. lenght wise and all.

im just thinking of how i can fit that big of ports in the box. would it work if i put some type of elbow and extended it?

just checked how long the ports would have to be to tune it to 33HZ. each one would have to be 37" long haha. so i think i might just have to stick to 4" diameter ports.

ill just probably go ahead and do the 6" ports. do you think that their will be alot of port noise?

i hope you weren't trying to be smart about what i was asking. know how to get the basic part of the circle. but being that they need to be atleast 20 inches long each. i was trying to find out the entire area of the inside of the port. this is my first time using round ports.

oh, i thought it would be way more technical then that. im just going to wire it normally, then see if he wants to see what it will sound like with the phase changed.