danssoslow

Along the same note, I would swap the speakers completely. This would isolate the speaker from not only the signal, but any possible physical problems that might exsist within that door.

Found my answer.

I used a parallel notch filter calculator to determine the values for L,C,& R for a trap attenuating 12db between 12k and 14khz. This will be used with the Dayton RS52's I purchased for my Blazer. The values given were: C- 30.03uf L- .75mh R- 2.65ohm I found the cap and inductor on PE's website, but the resistor is confusing me. I'm under the impression the resistor has to be rated for the wattage being used with te speaker, right? If this is so, I'm having a hard time finding a resistor of such little resistance @ 50 watts or better. At this point, I figure I'm near over my head. I figured the home audio guys could help here! TIA, Dan

Sounds like an excellent idea to me.

There are quite a few guys that have picked these uop on diyma. The only caveat would be the size of the amps; haven't read any ill issues as far as the amp's abilities. Going directly to Cadence's site would be the place to get the best deals, as there is no shipping buying directly through them. http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc...?idCategory=125

If your name was on the shipping slip, in care of the store you had it sent to, anyone could have signed your name. Good luck to you, man!

I'm looking to get rid of my Atlas and find something that will work within this situation: I have 450w @ 4ohms to power the sub, needs to work in an enclosure no bigger than 2.5 cubes gross (the smaller the better), I would like something that will play into the 20hz range as flat as possible, and I'm looking to keep the price of the sub below $150 (or whatever I get for the Atlas). Sealed or ported, as long as I can package the whole deal within 2.5 cubes, I'll be good to go.

Through another website, I got in touch with Mr. Haskins about the Shiva-X. He says that 2.5 cubes will be plenty to get into the 20's. Thank God for high excursion! This is the route I'm looking at going. Thanks for the help guys!

the poly is just a budget driver, right, cause poly is not the best of sounding drivers from what i understand. i wish there was a graph on it...anybody have one? zaphaudio.com There are tons of graphs of various speakers there. Good place to waste a couple of days.

Tell me about it. There was a time when my truck was used for nothing but my personal transportation. With my girlfriend in school, I'm the soccer mom and it's my minivan. The biggest kick in the butt is the damn spare in the truck, very uncool...

Also, I'm not tied down to any particular sized sub, either. Any and all options are fair game. I figured that the enclosure size would be tough for the 15" I have, but maybe optimal for an 8 or ten?

The HO will work just fine. The Shiva-X and Tempest-X are actually quite different than the original; for starters, they utilize XBL^2 where the old ones did not. So what's on your mind for the HO, 2.5 sealed? I couldn't find info on the X's on Acoustic Visions site, do you have some more info?

The answers I've gotten on the Atlas in the past has been too keep it above three cubes ported to get what I'm after. I've got all the time in the world, so getting rid of the sub amp and saving up to up the power isn't a bad option. What kind of suggestions do you have keeping the enclosure requirements in mind? Do you think the 12" reference HO work in my app? What about the Dayton DVC series (aren't those supposed to be Shiva/Tempest clones?)?

Just throwing this out there; but for a lower price, lower speaker count set up, how about pro sound speakers?

The Atlas 15 I bought still sits in the closet. Never powered, nothing. One of these days I guess.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11858 $90 shipped Edit: The same guy is selling the equipment here also.

I was looking at the thread here with your pics, and I remember seeing your enclosure in the past. Very good looking setup with the triangular ports. I found beerman's port calculator. Since the only working measurement I have is the gross volume, it isn't going to work for me, is it?

I lost my copy of BBP6 when my computer crashed a couple months ago. My original plan was to run the Atlas at 4 cubes at 30hz. Well, plans change, and I have far too much equipment to run in the back of my Blazer 2 door with the spare inside. I'm looking at probably 2-2.5 cubes tops, and I "want" to reach down as low as possible with some authority. Will 2 cubes tuned to 28-30 hz work without creating a narrow peaky response? I'll be running a set of Dayton Ref 8's in the doors, so I'm ultimately looking at something that will play from 60hz down to the 20's fairly flat. If this isn't going to work, I'll have to look into other sub choices, as the space is now going to have presidence over the sub. If anyone has any sub suggestions, I have 450w to work with. As far as budget, I might be able to swing another $100 (less the better) on top of whatever I can get for the Atlas ($100-150 maybe? it's still brand new).

Thanks for the help, guys. What did you have your enclosure tuned to Vladd, and how was the output? A little exageration wouldn't hurt , so I would like to port the enclosure to get as much out of this sub as I can. I originally made an enclosure for the rear of my Blazer that would take up all the available space possible, with the plans to recess one four channel amp in the enclosure . I planned on chucking the box after it had soaked up a little water from an interior leak. As plans changed and equipment grew, I damn near completely wrote the old enclosure off. This afternoon, I pulled the enclosure out of my son's closet. It looks as if I'll be able to fit all of my equipment, recessed into the enclosure. This is going to reduce the enclosure volume a bit, but I'll still end up with 3.645 cubic inches net. What I need help with now is figuring out the port length and size to achieve a 30 hz tuning. I will have space between the two amps on the rear of the enclosure to mount a 3" pvc port between them, so I'd like to keep the port area to a 3" pvc pipe or a multiple thereof if it's possible. Thanks once again, Dan

It's been so long, I can't remember the model number; but it was a Pioneer deck I picked up at Wally World for $125, and it came with 5 1/4" wizzer cone speakers. It lasted for years, through all kinds of abuse. It only skipped once, and it was when I was speeding downtown and didn't care to stop where the pavement was pulled up at an intersection. It played burnt cd's without a problem. To anyone who has used just one Pioneer unit, you the menus can be gone through in your sleep, very easy to navigate even while driving. I gave it away when I got rid of the last car I had it installed in, and as far as I know, it still runs today. I bought the unit back in '99, and last year ran into the guy I gave it to; it was still working at that time. It might not have had some of the nicer features, or 24 bit DA's; but the damn thing sounded good, and just kept on going, like the pair of BO-BO's momma got you in middle school.

It's an '87 amp. I bought this amp several years ago for ten bucks, along with a buttload of old tapes and some wireless house speakers from my girlfriend's boss. Didn't have a use for it, and sold it to my cousin with a first run RF HE 8" sub. I now have the sub and amp back. Is this amp, in fact, a Zed amp?

<<< Aces, guys! Now let's see how many times I attempt to sign in with the wrong name the next time I'm here. Dibs on three!

Hello all! I normaly use the name danssoslow, but I normaly pay attention to what I type. What can I say? I'm slow!

Depending on how my laptop screen is tilted, that red on this background color is not kind kind to the eyes! Thanks for the hospitality.

That would be awesome! Thanks. Dan