danssoslow

So I just received a call from a maintenance company we do work for to make a service run to a Wal-Mart in London. 2:15am and a drive from Louisville, do-do ain't hapennin'! Welcome!

That's what I would recommend. Size recommendation?

I'm having trouble finding info on this particular sub. I have searched a bunch of forums and tried Googling, also. I'm not real sure weather it is a tc9 or tc7 based sub; and knowing the many variants of those models left me skeptical of considering an appropriate sized enclosure based on another sub. I originally figured this is a TC9 variant, so I've been planning a ballpark figure of 1.5-2 cubes net ported to 28-30hz, using a 4-5" pvc port . I'm looking for a flat response, with as much extension as I could get. I'm mounting mli-65's up front as dedicated midbass drivers; and plan on them mating up with the sub in the 60hz area. The power will come from two bridged channels of my older RF Power 800.4, so we are looking at roughly 400w to power the sub. I drive a 2002 Blazer 2 door, so if anyone familiar with this truck knows what kind of cabin gain I will get, chime in please. I'm not out to get an overly exaggerated bottom end; and if a sealed enclosure will do me just fine, then I'm cool with that also. If anyone needs an idea of my musical tastes, I listen to a bit of rock, mostly 90's alternative or classic rock if so, alot of old school rap music, but mostly R&B music. I don't mind getting jiggy with it every now and then with some bass heavy rap music, but even then I'm not one to have my music up so loud that it can be heard from 3 blocks away. TIA, Dan

Very clean build. Hate to see that it has to go.

http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31

I found some factory refurbished Orion WCC 8001's for sale on fleabay for $80.95 shipped. Cheap enough for 400 watts @ 2 ohms. The appearance is a crapshoot, but they claim factory refurb'd with a 6 month warranty.

I'm in the market for a sub myself; but know diddly about numbers. What numbers do I need to look for and how do I interpret them in determining whether or not this will be a good choice for a sub?

http://www.psp-inc.com/ There's a port length calculator there.

Queensryche- Empire album STP- Core Both albums, the whole albums.

L Cool J- Def Jams Greatest Hits- Going Back To Cali Beastie Boys- Paul Revere Tupac - California P.M. Dawn- Boomerang Soundtrack- I'd Die Without You Nemisis- Munchies For Your Bass Wrecks-in-Effect- Rump Shaker Blackstreet-No Diggity Blackstreet- Don't Leave DJ Magic Mike- Lower The Dynamite 2 Live Crew- Me So Horny Luke- Friday Soundtrack- Hump With It

If you could take a request, could you take a listen at D'Angelo's "Brown Sugar"? I haven't heard many car audio systems that didn't sound muddy playing the first 20 seconds of that song.

X2 lol I think you mean 268in^2 No, no he didn't.

SUBE!

Has anyone ever used EMT or some sort of metal conduit sleeved over the allthread inside of the enclosure? I figure it would be stronger and alot more permanent that a nut on the backside of the baffle.

You could wire each sub in series, the 2ohm and the 4ohm coils, for a 6ohm load; then parallel each set for a 3ohm load per channel.

The mark4 Brahma had a 2 1/2" vc, didn't it? If so, maybe robotunderground could do you one up.

You can still use all thread by using one of these: These are used with all thread as standoffs in plumbing. Screw the foot down to the wood on both sides, and insert the all thread in between.

This is just a guess here, BTW; but I figure there would be a tonal difference between the two ports. Like a tuba and a trumpet playing the same note.

If I'm reading you right, than what you have stated is an impossibility. -Let's assume that the two port thing is correct in that two different sizes will create a tuning that is somewhere between the two. -You say you have a target tuning frequency, a frequency in which one port would be too long without bending the port. Now, knowing that a single straight port will be too long, the two port/split the difference technique wouldn't work because in order to reach your desired tuning "average", one of the two ports would have to be longer than the original single port that is too long itself to begin with. Now I'm screwed up...

With 4 subs-series coils/ paralleled subs, you are looking at .75ohm total load.

I'm not getting how you figured the 1) .5ohm coil and the 1) 1ohm coil. The way you figured it, you would have 3) subs each presenting a 1ohm load, or 3) 1ohm coils. Your system would not break down into 1) .5 and 1) 1ohm coils, since you are working in numbers of three. Your 3) 2ohm DVC subs, all coils paralleled, would present a .333ohm load. If you are looking for a 1 ohm total load, then do as shizzzon has said; series each sub for 3) 4ohm loads, and parallel those subs for a 1.5 ohm total load. Edit: Scratch that, Acidburn> me; the load would be 1.3ohms.

Have you tried out any designs with your Atlas?

If you don't mind loosing some flexibility, any local electrical supply should have 4/0 copper for sale.

I'll bet a dollar to a donut someone farted into that horn sometime during the construction. If not, that's a damn shame.

Doubtful, and if both doors are running the same size wire, I'd say it's a non issue at this point. Have you switched the speakers yet? Troubleshooting isn't hard. It can get more involved trying to track things down, but the work of tracking it down is the same. You HAVE to start switching things around, noting the changes, tracking the symptoms (wether the problem has switched sides or stayed) and start to isolate the symptom down to the cause. Wondering what might be the cause and completely changing what you believe to be the cause at this point can get costly. Say you change the speaker wire and the problem still exists; now you're out a couple bucks on some wire you didn't need. Personally, I'd start at the speakers and work back. Swap the speakers. -If the problem swithces sides, it's the speaker. Done. -If the problem stays on the same side, swap speaker leads at the amp. -If the problem stays on the same side, it's in the cabling or in the door installation. Done -If the problem switched sides, swap the rca's at the amp. -If the problem stays on the same side, it's the amp. Done. -If the problem swithced sides, swap the other end of the same set of rca's (be it at a processor or the radio). -If the problem stayed on the same side, it's the rca's. Done. -If the problem swithced sides, we then isolate the next unit upstream. I will assume the amp is directly connected to the radio. At this point we would assume the problem is in the radio. Swap the radio out with another radio, and see if the problem still exists. If you are using an external unit, such as a crossover or equalizer, we would start to repeat the steps we did at the apmlifier by swaping the rca's at the input of the unit you are attemting to isolate. And so on, and so on, looking to see if the problem swaps sides everytime something upstream is moved. Basically, if something is changed and the problem doesn't change accordingly, the problem is downstream from the change. If the problem does change, move another step upstream. Depending on how many pieces there are to your system will detrmine how involved the troubleshooting could get. Now, You'll see I wrote done ond the end of some of these steps, where our problem had been found. This only means the the problem has been narrowed down to a specific component in the system, so we're not actually done yet. At this point you should disconnect the specific component, looking for obvious signs of damage. Say we found the problem was in the speaker wire or the door install. At this point, disconnect the wire from the amp, uninstalling/unrouting the wire back to the door. Noticing any signs of chaffing, breaks in a conductor, tears in the shielding, etc. It's important to note where the problem happened on the wire, as this would be a sign to avoid a bad situation again; making sure that whatever caused the damage does not pose a threat to the new wire that you will later run. Let's say that you do not find a problem with the wire. If possible, reconnect it at the amp (now running directly from the speaker to the amp, outside of the area it is normaly routed) and see if the problem still exists. If it does, swap the wire out completely. If it still exists after completey removing the wire from the system, it has to be something in the door, as we have already removed the speakers from being the possible problem. Check the door install as closely as possible. Sorry to be so long winded; but the only way to get your problem narrowed down is to get in there and attack the system like a madman. Good luck! Edit: It seems I am having a hard time spelling "switched" correctly. Sorry.