ssh

Swapping the belt at the same time may be a good idea while you're at it. Look at mileage, and cost of new belt.Depending on the aftermarket alternator it may require a relay hooked up to 12v power when key is in ignition (I think I worded that correctly. Basically it needs 12v when the vehicle is running, so it knows to turn on). My aftermarket alternator needed this, and I tested the circuits in the fusebox for power when the vehicle was on, and no power with vehicle off, than I spliced into one. Labor is going to vary largely from one vehicle to the next. I did everything in my jeep under two hours. The same job on my volvo takes almost twice as long if you've done it before.

You can't wire a d1 to one ohm unless you have two. your choices are .5 or 2 ohms. Good catch.

Damn, she's up to 562 reps.

2000watts / 14.4v = 139A @ 100% efficiency. Amps are not anywhere near 100%. Wiring lower than "1ohm" will increase this amperage draw. Generally stock alternators don't come with much headroom as it's not cost effective nor needed very often, so expect the majority of your alternator's output to be used by the car. So I would say no.

Fixed.

Find the nearest wall, and bang your head against it.

?Honnestly guys ... The average competition SQ vehicle usually has no problems putting up anywhere from a 135 to a 150DB SPL number up on the board along with their SQ score ... Several vehicles compete SQ and SPL, my truck being one of them ... When I listen to music I don't want the sub over-powering the front-stage, and that's pretty easy to do in almost any setup. I understand for some people that compete in "SQ" that having multiple large drivers is beneficial because of the increased output/headroom and less distortion from less cone movement, but I don't believe most people require that for what I consider a "SQ" setup, hence Rick's post asking the OP to define what he really wants. After reading his later posts it appears he just wants a lot of sub output and wants it to sound good, so as I said before just about any driver sold here would suffice.

Jack3d had meth in it so maybe. J It's a false positive from what I've read on the internet.

I actually wonder if a company like TN or GNC could get away with it. Tricky part would be advertising.

Frankly almost any driver sold on this site would suffice, but when I think of SQ, loudness doesn't come to mind.

They're a front for shipping cocaine, you must have missed the news!

what bar did you use? And dropping the fan would be a pain in the assIt's just a 3/4" breaker bar, nothing fancy. ^^This and the radiator fan is a lot easier to take out then it looks its literally just 4 small nuts that are easily reachable, but you shouldnt have to take it out to get a breaker bar in there. It IS a really tight fit though How did you get the electrical plug out of the alternator? Remove two small nuts.

what bar did you use? And dropping the fan would be a pain in the assIt's just a 3/4" breaker bar, nothing fancy.^^This and the radiator fan is a lot easier to take out then it looks its literally just 4 small nuts that are easily reachable, but you shouldnt have to take it out to get a breaker bar in there. It IS a really tight fit thoughI have a feeling my TJ had a bit more room than your Cherokees. Wanna fight?What?That's what I thought.You must be bipolar.

They are pretty simple and easy. Biggest issues are body roll and HP. I didn't know they/some of them come with turbos. Perhaps a larger turbo, injectors, downpipe exhaust, big wing, and fuzzy dice for the HP. Hey now, I have fuzzy dice in my p5.That's why I said it. Good guess I had.

what bar did you use? And dropping the fan would be a pain in the assIt's just a 3/4" breaker bar, nothing fancy.^^This and the radiator fan is a lot easier to take out then it looks its literally just 4 small nuts that are easily reachable, but you shouldnt have to take it out to get a breaker bar in there. It IS a really tight fit thoughI have a feeling my TJ had a bit more room than your Cherokees. Wanna fight?What?

what bar did you use? And dropping the fan would be a pain in the assIt's just a 3/4" breaker bar, nothing fancy. ^^This and the radiator fan is a lot easier to take out then it looks its literally just 4 small nuts that are easily reachable, but you shouldnt have to take it out to get a breaker bar in there. It IS a really tight fit though I have a feeling my TJ had a bit more room than your Cherokees.

what bar did you use? And dropping the fan would be a pain in the assIt's just a 3/4" breaker bar, nothing fancy.

Oh Stefani... Oh Ricky.

the bolts were machine screwed and drilled on so I can't take them off is my problemMight try penetrating oil beforehand. I used a big breaker bar and they came off no biggie.There is not even room for a breaker bar i have tried lol. Damn crammed spaces! Oil might work though!That's a drag. My jeep was uber easy, but my volvo is a pain in the ass.

the bolts were machine screwed and drilled on so I can't take them off is my problemMight try penetrating oil beforehand. I used a big breaker bar and they came off no biggie.

I have one but my alternator is hard as hell to get off. I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee if you have any advice to get it off I would appreciate it greatly. I will probably have to take it in to get the alternator on. Any suggestions on how much that will cost me?I had a 1997 Jeep Wrangler with the straight six 4.0. I believe it's the same engine as yours. If that's the case than it's super easy. Took me an hour-ish to switch the alts, replace the belt, and wire a relay for the new alt. Here's some pics: http://blog.stefanhinote.com/jeep-gets-a-power-upgrade/

They are pretty simple and easy. Biggest issues are body roll and HP. I didn't know they/some of them come with turbos. Perhaps a larger turbo, injectors, downpipe exhaust, big wing, and fuzzy dice for the HP.

Asshole.