ssh

Dropped my car off this morning at the body shop to get the bumper fixed after rear-ended. Insurance company had over a week to approve the estimate and rental car but nope didn't do it until I was at the enterprise. Then I had to deal with some BS since I'm not 21. Finally left with a Chrysler 200, shit is so slow.

You're making me want to order a pi and the reader I was looking at along with some other goodies... But I don't have time for it, damn kids.

Ah I see. Sounds like a fun project if you have the time for it all.

You could also just leave it on and have a switch for killing the power to monitor. Look at power consumption between the pi and an rfid reader.

Chill, sounds like a sweet car, better get some pics up when you get it.

Perhaps you could wire some relay so when you unlock the car it starts booting, and shuts off when you lock the car.

The architecture doesn't support any standby / hibernation / resume mode. It's either on or off. Boot time is going to depend on the distribution and sd card class. The latest firmware update has an option "hard float ABI" which will help with boot speed. Turning off system logging would help also. As an estimate boot speed is going to be around 10 - 40 seconds. People seem to be getting the lower boot times ~10 seconds with Arch.

OK I won't use the RE calculator. What should I use? I really can't afford a $300 box. I have no choice but to make it myself. I would be willing to pay for a legitimate blueprint though. That seems fair. I admit, I don't know how to calculate any of the things you meantioned, but I can still put the box together myself at least. I would do it by hand so you understand how everything is being calculated and accounted for. Then use a calculator (provided it matches your calculations) for future. I haven't used the Torres calculator so I have no input on it. You can take a look at this: http://bitpusher.in/?p=ported

Unless you are SUPER conservative on the gain you will be in dire need of midbsas IMOI was in the boat he's about to get in. Ended up going from one extreme to the other.

The RE box calculator is worthless. With your box dimensions you need to calculate the enclosure volume taking into consideration the wood thickness, displacement of the driver, any bracing displacement, and port displacement. You also need to make sure your port area is adequate so you don't run into port noise. You also need to make sure your port length is correct for the desired tuning AND it's being calculated with the correct volume of the enclosure. IE: the enclosure has an internal volume of 2 cubes. The sub has a displacement of 0.15cubes, so the internal volume is now 1.85 cubes. Say you want 30hz tuning and need 30in^2 of port area, and that calls for 15" of port length (these numbers are arbitrary) for 1.85cubes of volume, but the port itself displaces ~0.26 cubes, so your actual volume would be 1.59 not 1.85, which means the port length of 15" would actually raise the tuning, and you'd need to increase the port length to bring it back down to 30hz. It's really not that hard as long as you know some basic math and have the ability to search around for what constitutes adequate port area. It's also worth mentioning the above isn't even touching the subject of picking what enclosure volume and/or tuning would be best for an application, but rather just making a basic box. I hope you design and build the enclosure all by yourself, that way perhaps you'll better appreciate the amount of work that goes into such and I won't have to read another one of your posts whining about peoples' pricing. P.S. The RE calculator is worthless. If you use it and your box sucks, I told you so.

Yeah it's a shame that bitch is in the photo too, otherwise we could see the faucet.

That's some awesome work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDCmdXTpbPc

I second the HDS because that's the combination of drivers I'm using in my car (ex-anarchy + hds), and I've been extremely happy. I have my tweets installed in the a-pillars so they aren't quite off-axis as they would be in the doors though. Just to give you a rough idea I have the tweets crossed ~1950hz with an 18db slope. Don't remember the filter type off hand though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMq3ozw7VME

http://vimeo.com/80704110

Brrrr.

Fuck.

Good luck. When I had my TJ with a hard top the best I could do was 143 with an 18" and big ported box.

Youtube comments, jesus.

I saw a blacked out Acura mdx? (had no emblems) today and seemed like something you're sorta looking for--except for the power issue.

Has their always been full length movies on Youtube? I watched a few yesterday and was surprised they weren't taken down by mpaa. Better quality than Netflix or Amazon Prime too.

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period. Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12. If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!! here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8 I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure. Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though. Depends on the application. The water will separate into hydrogen and oxygen. Oxygen is a requirement for combustion . The methanol also adds to the benefit. It burns slower, and quite completely in a combustion chamber. Essentially it increases the octane rating by controlling the burn rate. I stress essentially because that is not a literal explanation but it simplifies thing. It allows for a better timing curve and increased boost without fear of pre-ignition. It is a win/win. You need to be sure it is a quality system. Progressive systems are worth the extra money. A straight shot can created flat spots in acceleration. In some cases if tuned incorrectly it can create a dip in overall top end performance. A good adjustable map is important. Not that it really matters, but I don't think water contributes either hydrogen or oxygen, just cooling. What's the range of temperatures in a cylinder (generically speaking)? ~2400 degrees in a best case scenario, but there are many factors contributing to the temp... Load, cooling system viability, EGR, valve timing, load, mixture, octane rating, and a plethora of other variables. Plenty of heat to separate oxygen from the hydrogen, and yes, it does contribute. Oh, I didn't think it got that hot. I looked up the thermal decomposition of water but I didn't find much info other than some decomposition starting around 2000C.