ssh

lol, I wouldn't do that unless your leaving the parking lot... And even so I try to respect the public

All Preorders have been shipped and these woofer's are now actually in stock! if OP can wait a little bit, he can see what people have to say about them Also to the OP, are you willing to upgrade your front battery? or add a second battery to the rear? Do you know what your alternator specs are? I had to gain down my saz1500 when using it on my stock alt, or I'd have bad voltage drop... Just don't want you to spend a lot on something you can't fully take advantage of

I would personally get a sundown amp before an AQ. Reason I say this is, I've had several sundown amps and have had zero problems, no issues whats so ever. If I was buying a single driver as your are in your case, I'd probably go for the BL since it has a higher power rating and I love my current BL . Reason my next build is 4 sa12s and not 4 BLs is money, sa12s are cheaper, and I'm not running enough power to put them to their potential verse the sa12s lower power rating. As far as the skar drivers, I know they have a nice presale going on right now, but I don't know anyone whose actually tested them...

We can't tell you what exactly you will need because we aren't there doing it for you. But here's what we can recommend. If you run the saz-2500d at 1 ohm you will need electrical upgrades. Here is what you should try in order. Big 3, Battery or Batteries, High Output alternator. The saz-2500 draws a lot of current. You need power to make power. With the Saz-1500d you will probably need to do the big 3 and have an extra battery. Anyways, 2500 watts is a lot for those subs. SSDs are rated at 800 watts and with that amp you'll be giving them 1250 watts each. It may take it, but then again they may not. It really all depends on the install. Since you said you are new, I'd personally play it safe and go for the saz-1500d and run it at 1 ohm for 750 watts to each sub. make sure you get Dual 1 SSDS so you can wire to 1 ohm. Hope I helped. So everyone tellin me if i get the 2500d i will blow the subs wired at one ohm i thought them subs where beast that they where underrated and could Handel atleast 1300 watts what about if i find one of them discontinued 2000d's i dont want them to only get 750 watts and be underpowered so whats a good range to keep them in watt wise Give them rated power. And use smaller font size. If you want to run more power then quit being cheap and buy the BL or BTL. And to go along with this step up of power, upgrade your alt and get a few batteries for the back. I'm giving you good advice, DAWG.

I would not run 0.5 for daily...

Well depending on the stock alt I think running a full 1000watts in going to be hard on electrical, unless he adds another battery. I've also read that DC audio drivers are considerably inefficient, this would leave me to believe that in order to get the full potential out of a dc lvl4 driver, your going to be need at least a 1000watts but most likely more. So if it was me, I'd go with the BL or sa12 Correct me If I'm wrong.

Thank you for the welcome. You guys seem to have a wealth of knowledge. I am kind of leaning towards the BL, but i have heard great things about the SA-12. Thank you greatly for your input. SA12 is the best bang for your buck, at least that's what I see. There cheap, underrated, and everyone seems to love them. I currently have one sitting in my room, still haven't done any testing with it. Another thing that's nice with them is they like smaller enclosure sizes, so if storage is an issue then the sa12 may be the better route. Although I have an sa12 I haven't had the chance to listen to it yet, but I've ran ssa icons (latest model) in the past and they sounded awesome. The bass was tight, never muddy, punch in the gut feeling, and that was in a ported enclosure Currently I'm running a fi bl and the sq between the two is hard to notice, unless you have a trained ear Can't compare output though, as I had different enclosures and different size driver(s). Also if your on a budget, check out the for sale section, you can always get great deals on slightly used drivers. Not sure about your stock alternators amperage, but I think running 1000watts would be okay with a second battery, or just gain down a little bit (and down the road if your upgrade electrical, you can simply readjust your gain). Do you think the SA12 can take the 1000 - 1200 RMS daily and be safe? It is rated at 600 RMS right? I know people are pushing them much harder than that though with great results. I will definately check out the For Sale section. I have not checked that out yet. Should i feel safe purchasing used drivers from others on this site? Thanks man A lot of people that are running way over 600watts(listed rms) on their sa12s are doing it for burps. I'm not sure if your familiar with the term, but it basically means there competing and they only run such high power for extremely short periods of time (anywhere from a couple seconds to perhaps a minute or so depending on class and competition type). Power handling also comes down to enclosure size, bigger the enclosure, the less power handling, and vice versa. I've read some people were using "1200watts" to a sa12 and started to smell coil, but around ~800watts they said it was good. (this is for daily). But I don't remember what their enclosure volumes were... I'd get an amp with ~1000watts just to have the headroom, then you can start messing with gain (without clipping of course) and see what works and what doesn't work power wise with your enclosure. As far as buying from others on the site, I would check to see if they have any references, ask for pictures of product along with their username in pic, etc. Some users I trust and others I just don't know well enough... Also ssa has a transaction feedback section under "for sale", so you can see if the user has positive feedback and what not.

^this, or tune your enclosure to 28hz Here's an inline attenuator you may want to check out http://www.hlabs.com/technical/crossovers/

even if you put your nose in the port? lol well of course then. But i mean the amps set perfect & it only does it when the speaker heats up! ughhh i need someone to tune it for me lol I agree with Nick, it sounds like your clipping it. Depending on how much clipping is present, will affect the time it takes for the driver to heat up. Did you set your lpf to somewhere around 80hz? And subsonic filter is set where? and gains set be ear?

even if you put your nose in the port?

on the ported sa-8 how long and wide should a round port be? Depends on the box volume and tuned frequency. Make a new thread under SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I'd set the lpf to around 80hz

Thank you for the welcome. You guys seem to have a wealth of knowledge. I am kind of leaning towards the BL, but i have heard great things about the SA-12. Thank you greatly for your input. SA12 is the best bang for your buck, at least that's what I see. There cheap, underrated, and everyone seems to love them. I currently have one sitting in my room, still haven't done any testing with it. Another thing that's nice with them is they like smaller enclosure sizes, so if storage is an issue then the sa12 may be the better route. Although I have an sa12 I haven't had the chance to listen to it yet, but I've ran ssa icons (latest model) in the past and they sounded awesome. The bass was tight, never muddy, punch in the gut feeling, and that was in a ported enclosure Currently I'm running a fi bl and the sq between the two is hard to notice, unless you have a trained ear Can't compare output though, as I had different enclosures and different size driver(s). Also if your on a budget, check out the for sale section, you can always get great deals on slightly used drivers. Not sure about your stock alternators amperage, but I think running 1000watts would be okay with a second battery, or just gain down a little bit (and down the road if your upgrade electrical, you can simply readjust your gain).

MY GOALS TO GET LOUD PEOPLE HEAR BOOM BOOM OUTSIDE OF CAR SET OFF CAR ALARMS I WANT TO DO IT BIG YA NO.I JUST WANT TO KNOW WHAT WOOFAS GIVE ME LOUDEST DOOF DOOF AND GIVE ME THE MOST DEEBEEZ. When I read this, I actually thought it was the OP lol

lol. If you want help you need to ask more specific questions, state more specific goals. You want to get loud on music, not burping. What's your budget? What vehicle is this going in?

Additional ground from negative stud on battery to engine or chassis Additional wire from positive stud on alternator to positive stud on battery

I had mine tuned to 33hz and sounded awesome playing metallica

Just watch for signs of stress.

just buy it... sealed or ported, it's going to sound much better then your current driver (as long as your box is decent ) As far as underpowering it, there's no such thing. It will perform optimally at rated power, but less will still perform well.

Get'chu some Funkypups!

You could buy a used saz1500d for a little under 300, and you'd have some headroom. Also some people will chime in on AQ and audiopipe amps, I've personally never used them so I don't have any input on them.

Expect to spend around ~$100 on wiring for your amp. Weldingsupply.com has great cable and it doesn't cost extra for "pixie dust car audio". And then you'll need a fuse, fuseholder, and small wire for your remote turn on, oh and some ring terminals

Your box already weighs a ton, you could wrap it 5 times with synthetic leather or carpet and it won't make a weight difference in the scheme of things... I'd be worried about using spray paint and having it flake off...

Hey guys, So here's pictures of stock harness and new one: stock new The blue wire goes to positive stud on alt, correct? I know where the black positive cable from stock wiring goes to positive stud on alt (from stock pic) But where/does the white wire, and the two red wires go to the old wiring? In the pic you see the red wire with ring terminal on left, but on the right theres another red wire about 3-4" long with no ring terminal, just dangling (is this one used?) Thanks

Update, for dc and everyone watching my install, Mounted and wired everything up today, started up my jeep and my voltage was 12v, knew the alt wasn't charging. Checked my 12v ignition wire for power on the stock harness and had zero volts, found a new place to wire up the 12v relay, started it up and same thing. Called Rob and walked him through (or attempted to ) how everything was wired, Sent him some pictures in case he saw anything out of whack. All the while my belt started to squeak, so I moved my tensioner and tightened it down, and boom idling at 15.1v So yeah... had a couple confusing things here and there, Rob and Kyle walked me through everything, and now this monster is up and running :D I'll get a video in a couple days, no longer have to hide my voltmeter Thanks again DC for building an awesome product and having the best customer service.