ssh

The public can buy passes for like a $100 to get in right?

Your using a single saz2000?

Not sure which 8s your talking about? sa8s? unless there midbass drivers, 67watts isn't going to make a whole lot of a difference

Well honestly, thanks guys. This thread was sort of a joke really, I put bassahaulic up to it to just Annoy Aaron. Aaron says all the time that more and more people only thank me because they are not aware Aaron is a part of SSA ROFL. (New Customers mostly), so I thought it might be funny to have another thread ignoring him a little. In summary this thread is really thanking Aaron. Thanks Aaron for all of your hard work on this site! **this is just part of my sarcastic personality ** Aaron who?

I'm tempted to go ahead with it, money isn't easy to come by for me so I'd hate having to build another box if it doesn't work. Time for me to decide Anyone know the distance between cone and floor for unloading should be? Drivers are sa12s.

Or you could do interchangeable ports for tuning, one set of ports for daily, and another set for burping...

Depends on the vehicle, enclosure, etc.

Width (from fenderwell to fenderwell): 34" height: I'd like to keep under 16" depth: 31" If I down fired then the actual volume of the box would be reduced, instead of 16" for height it would be ~13", assuming 3" is enough space for the cone to unload...

Florence and the Machine You've Got the Love The xx Remix.

Very clean build, I like the false floor having all your amps battery(s) and wires hidden.

Thanks Mark and Aaron, I honestly hate 90% of all forums due to their lack of knowledge and filled with people giving wrong advice, somehow ssa just doesn't have that, it's a whole bunch of well grounded nice people, ssa has the best atmosphere with the best information. And it looks pretty

Yep, just to clarify since you asked something somewhat simple, Put positive lead from dmm on remote turn on wire and put negative lead on anything grounded in the vehicle, chassis, amp ground, negative lead on battery, etc.

I understand that, instead of loading directly into vehicle, it's loading into this narrow chamber and then out to the vehicle. I'm guessing it would be similar to the back waves coming out of a port... I could make the gap or "loading chamber" range from a few inches up to 17" in width. I feel like unless someone posts with prior knowledge from testing a similar design to this, that I should just go with down firing... Thanks Helotaxi

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the only content that would take advantage of 5.1 movies?

As just about any vehicle does, I have many options, but I've narrowed down my choice to fitting as much cone area as possible. I'm looking for a loud daily driver. I am not however, looking to do a wall. So my latest idea is 4 sa12s either down firing or in this design. What I like about this design is the overall height of the box would be reduced by a few inches verse down firing, (the more space for storage, the better). I have about 7.5cubes gross to play with, and sa12s lean on the smaller side of volume requirements (reason i choose them), So I'm looking to have a net volume of 5-6.5cubes in end. With my current enclosure I have found that firing forward, port forward, was audibly louder then rear and up firing. If I did this design, I could have the opening of the enclosure directly between driver and passenger seat (center console area), and ports directly behind seats (with respective space for ports to breath). So it has several points that fall into my liking, but I'm not aware of the disadvantages compared to a regular ported enclosure.

I'm not following you?

How so?

Bandpass enclosures are sealed behind the driver (At least that's what I think), this would be ported. As far as mounting the drivers, build bottom and sides of enclosure, leave top panel off, install first baffle in enclosure, mount drivers on that baffle, put next set of drivers on next baffle, then install second baffle, then install top panel. The only down side is you don't have access to the drivers once installed, if you need them out, time to cut open box... I guess I could make the top panel screw only and not use glue, but that wouldn't seal very well or be very strong, plus I'd have dowels in between for bracing... Hm many you could make some sort of access panle to reach the subs. And the band pass you mentioned is a 4th order, there are many diferent kinds of band pass designs like 6th or 8th order. I thing your slightly resembles an 8th order. Well I'd like the box to be as strong as possible, so less openings the better. As for the bandpass and orders, learn something new everyday

DC Power flexing it's muscle New machine is pretty awesome for more measuring everything. max output 4.7kw All the possibilities... mmm

You could say that... that build is on a slightly larger scale

Yeah I would have to measure how much space I could do for the gap, but it would look cool to see the motors, and it wouldn't be some ghetto shit with the subs inverted on top of the box. I'll wait on others to chime in respectively on the general idea before I figure out all the measurements.

If you don't have a warranty, then you don't have anything to lose if you open it... I'm sure somethings burnt up...

x2 It's a business, not a charity group. There being nice as is.

Bandpass enclosures are sealed behind the driver (At least that's what I think), this would be ported. As far as mounting the drivers, build bottom and sides of enclosure, leave top panel off, install first baffle in enclosure, mount drivers on that baffle, put next set of drivers on next baffle, then install second baffle, then install top panel. The only down side is you don't have access to the drivers once installed, if you need them out, time to cut open box... I guess I could make the top panel screw only and not use glue, but that wouldn't seal very well or be very strong, plus I'd have dowels in between for bracing...