ssh

One 0gauge input for power and one 0gauge input for ground. Which is fine, you can always run 2/0 or two strands of 0gauge into a reducer...

Sounds good lpf could be set a little higher, but if you have midbass drivers picking up the rest after 60 then I'd say it's good where it's at.

There's more to tuning then setting the gain.

Did you tune the ssf, and lpf by ear as well? lol

I got a couple sa12s sitting in my room for my next build too Looks like sundown getting all the love.

Bangin, you need a new motor Oh and you coming to the show in tucson next weekend?

Video by shizz? mine as well record in a dark room saying "see it open? now its closed"

*throws up in mouth* Depends on your needs, goals, power, etc. I'd never use something that thin, but I know bassheads who will disagree. Different goals. They don't list the thickness...You could send them an email and ask. the port can be trimmed to change tuned frequency (nice addition, not just tuned at 45hz and there you go). Edit after further reading, I think that box is good for a low powered subwoofer, but an Icon on a 1000watts is gonna tear that apart. HUGE problem with that box. It is 1.25cuft which is enough for a SEALED Icon. No way, no how will anything sound good in it. If you have to use it, seal the port and call it sealed. Port tuning is also seriously shit in that enclosure and not made for a "real" sub. It won't get torn apart if it is truly mdf, but I still don't recommend it for anything I'd own. Doubt the box has any bracing, I guess if the glue used is decent enough...

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They don't list the thickness...You could send them an email and ask. the port can be trimmed to change tuned frequency (nice addition, not just tuned at 45hz and there you go). Edit after further reading, I think that box is good for a low powered subwoofer, but an Icon on a 1000watts is gonna tear that apart.

Thank you for starting this thread, it's made me very happy I have faith in our country.

Big 3 helps lower voltage drop, but it doesn't magically increase the alternators amperage rating. Not really. Most stock alts make just enough power to run your lights, ecu, ac, and charge your battery, adding say a 1000watt monoblock with awesome efficiency your looking at an additional ~70amps... Expect bad voltage drop, and increased heat & stress on amp... Bad combination.

sa12s are orientated towards ported, not the best driver for sealed, at least from everything I've read and heard from Jacob.

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp is your friend

You can always upgrade amps down the road. I know if it was me I'd probably lean towards doing the sa12s, but that's just a preference not a reason the choice is up to you.

Yeah, then I can't store stuff on top of the box I think I'm just going to do a simple down firing setup, it's easy, if I need to get to my subs I won't have to cut the box open, I don't have to guess with the center gap. Thanks for everyone's opinions, except for the glue gas bs.

I agree with Julian, more contrast, more vivid, and navigation through the pages is easy.

Even playing a test tone, your still pissing in the wind. I just don't see the point in knowing any way. It is what it is. If you need more power, your already going to switch amps...

Love your amp rack

Clamping your amps to try and find power output is a joke. ? Its a good thing to check out just to know. Tells you how much power your recieving on your electrical system with the amp. Now i wouldnt use that as a reference point to max my subs out would be a bad idea but just to know isnt that shabby. "Always remeber music is always changing on independence never will be the same". I'm not stating whether knowing your amps output is a good or bad thing, I'm stating trying to do it with a clamp meter is a joke. Yes impedance changes over the course of the frequency range, and the time between these notes affects cooling and in turn more impedance rise. I like your quote Viva la Musica, Independence!

Clamping your amps to try and find power output is a joke.

For instance, the xmax is the farthest it will move in 1 direction before distorting. The xlim is the farthest it will move while distorting. Usually the excursion is either stopped by the excursion limiters(whether it be the spiders or the limiting-ties), or on older/cheaper subs it's stopped when the coil bottoms out(or in rare cases the coil jumping off the pole). Some subs have a small xmax whilst having a giant xlim, so that you can option to drive them hard(move alot of cone area) without the coils crashing. The bad thing about spiders limiting the travel is when you have the embedded tensil leads, it can cause unnecessary strain on them during excessive cone travel(excursion). I just found a site showing how xmax and xlim are defined, you can take a look if you want to know what I'm referring to. http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/xmax.htm So you want to find how far you can push them past their limits? Perhaps you should get a btl.

I don't think so, I thought you have to have a business license to get in, I could be wrong though... Nevermind, I'm thinking about the CES... lol