ssh

No one here is being an audiophile, it's just you being content with zero imaging and a jury rigged setup. Either buy a ysplitter for signal and get a plate amp, or put an inline lpf for the left channel (cheapest, and worst way to go).

He may even be able to use a y-splitter and send a signal from either channels to the plate amp (assuming the signal doesn't have any bass filtered). Parts Express has some cheap plate amps

Apparently! FML I might, are you going to the show? yes but I don't have too much to "show" lol

That's really f***** up lol. Get an amp with atleast 2 channels and a subwoofer channel. You have your mids and highs playing on the right channel (not sure how you have them positioned in room? center? left and right? right?) Zero imaging. And then on the left channel your subwoofer is playing everything... I could be wrong but the amp may have a filter to get rid of the lower frequencies for the main channels (meaning your left channel may only play 100hz and up) And to top everything off, the sub is playing midrange and vocals? Your not powering all this off a car battery and some lamp cord too... by any chance?

The show has been moved to Hooters of Tucson, 6335 E. Tanque Verde, Tucson AZ 85015. We're expecting a godd turn out. Please see my latest post. Thanks. Since when does Tucson have a fucking Hooters????? I have lived in Sierra Vista on and off since 2006!!!!! J There's a couple actually

Most vehicles are generally louder with a door open, window down vs the vehicle being sealed right? Depending on the db level is there an inverse effect and a sealed vehicle is louder? Or does it just depend on the frequency as an open door would make the cabin part of the enclosure (4th order?) I know there's different sanctions and different rules among classes, so certain cases I'm assuming the vehicle has to be sealed and can't have any windows/door open. So if my first theory is true, then why do people seal every air leak in their vehicle to gain dbs? Wouldn't they want places for the air to escape (like an open door, just not opened quite as much). OR would this^ be like a leaky sealed enclosure compared to a ported enclosure? Some things just seem contradictory and never asked

Yeah mines louder with driver door open, I have to test both doors open and see if I can tell any difference. Kinda hard without a tl

your car is just full of surprises

Lol don't worry I'm fully aware of prntscrn, but I'm sitting in my car with my laptop on the inverter in my center console and my 3G hotspot isn't working so I have to upload the pics off my phone. I made my fiance go grocery shopping while I sit here and CAD a sub box she's the best in that regard Both of you sound like quite the best Maybe I could pick your brain with an enclosure design sometime

Are you taking a picture of your screen? You can always press "PrtScn" on keyboard and paste image into mspaint, adobe ps, etc.

If you can't run an extra battery or upgrade alternator, I wouldn't run a 1500watt amplifier (unless you gained down for the time being and upgraded electrical down the road). Running both drivers on the 750 should get louder then a single driver due to twice the cone area.

130-140db is easy. Now which setup will be louder out of those options? whose to say...

The show has been moved to Hooters of Tucson, 6335 E. Tanque Verde, Tucson AZ 85015. We're expecting a godd turn out. Please see my latest post. Thanks. Sweet, its right down the road

Why is he better off with a smaller driver? More room for the enclosure and driver to breathe? Tiiiiiiny trunk opening very difficult to fit large boxes through it and if he can't get it through the rear folding seats then he's fucked Point taken

Why is he better off with a smaller driver? More room for the enclosure and driver to breathe?

I'm pretty sure it would, I remember reading somewhere someone did a test with the rear seats up vs folded down in a trunk setup, I believe there was a 3db difference. But every vehicle and design is different and therefore will yield different results. But it's probably safe to assume, a btl 15" is going to give him more bass then a say a 12" btl, if enclosure volume and tuning is correct.

When you say old school vs new school? Could you explain that? Difference in just looks or is it performance? Will the "old school" be able to handle that 15v adapter? Just curious as I will be saving next 2 checks for this puppy... I think Rob is referring to newer designs allowing more power and more costly, verse older designs less power and cheaper. not good or bad, just depends on the power you need and the size of your wallet

I would throw an extra battery in the back and go from there.

Whats your stock alt specs? Is the 3100d your starting battery or additional battery? What was your voltage drop at full tilt on previous setups? What were your previous setups?

But you are. JK There's a prop in az for medicinal legalization (as CA currently is) currently. Very curious to see the outcome. Misinformation about marijuana sure doesn't help the cause. Ignorance is a bitch.

well i have the big 3 upgrade with all 0 ga and when i get the new amp ill be replacing my 4 ga that i have running to my amp in the trunk with all 0 ga The big 3 helps the flow of power from A to B, it doesn't however add power. So you still have a stock electrical. Due to your drivers dcr, you can either wire it to 0.5 or 2ohms. 0.5 is a bad choice unless you know what your doing, and you clearly do not or you wouldn't be asking. I'm assuming this is your daily vehicle, playing music, etc. So your gonna want to wire it to 2ohms. As several have stated, look for an amp that makes 1000-1500watts at 2ohms. If you do get the kicker zx1500, your going to need an inline ssf (check out fmods).

You can get an Early ballot and submit by mail. Honestly if you don't vote, your lazy or just don't care that much.

It is called not knowing any better, and simply being a lemming and doing exactly what the manufacturer that really makes them says. It's simply not understanding how an amplifier works..in conjunction with a speaker. When you start to drop an amp below 1ohm more heat is being built up because the power supply and output portion of things of the amplifier simply cannot handle the demand that the output stage is wanting to get. When you do not have a subsonic filter...or one that is set improperly...you then start to make this thing that you've just microwaved move... You are slamming the gates open/closed on the output transistors at 90+% duty cycle, which is absolutely asinine and they freak out. Take a can of coke, pop the top open and bend it back and forth a few millimeters...within it's mechanical limitations that tab will never break. Now if you start to bend it past its mechanical limitations is when you start to get into trouble. This is where the subsonic filter comes in and making sure that you are not playing full power below port tuning frequency of a sub. If you already have something that's hot from running it hard on one of the Korean amps and you start yanking the soft parts past their mechanical limitations more and more heat builds up... You get to the point where so much heat builds up that the spiders start smoldering...they won't catch on fire until you've clipped the signal to death, vaporized all of the flame retardant spray that the spiders are soaked in and then it smokes. (square wave form, dc voltage out of the amp because the power supply cannot handle what you are doing to it) It's not the sub, there is absolutely nothing wrong with running those leads like they are. What's going on is an issue of the big cheap Korean amplifiers in and of themselves...and total ill-regard to what a microwave and conductive material does. Hope this helps you understand...if you run a Crown A6000Gti you'll never have a problem...because it's an A/B amp....the other stuff that is cheap...don't run it below 1ohm or you are going to have nothing but problems because in order to get that big power cheaply and cut out on the parts that are going into the amplifier the switching frequency of the power supply must be ramped way up...in turn microwaving woofer parts. Yes, that is true, I think, that little which amp can work on on .5 ohm, daily. I think if you have a daily sub in daily(big) box, you have a very big box impedance rise, which mean that if you want more efficiency from amp ( without clipping, buy sub with dual 1 ohm wire and wire down to .5 ohm, because in real life you got 2ohm impedance or more, thats the point of this quote. I don't know for woofer box without impedance rise. So..after I explain why to not do something...you continue to say let's do it? The last thing on your mind in a daily driving install should be impedance rise...in a musical application it simply does not matter! SPL burping is another scenario. Unless you want to invest heavily in recones...I'm telling you do NOT do it. It's sad, someone with such experience and knowledge in the field and yet people continue to ignore you. But hey, they pay the price in the end

If I was of age, I would have

I fail so hard... if someone wants to stalk me...