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Hello, when do you want to bang? Welcome to the forum, and most people here could care less about post count, except for Julian and Duran

Well, ~25% per cone could be a differnce once you start to multiply them. Sure it could all add up, but for the average consumer, having a 10" square driver vs a 10" circular driver, the difference would be less then 25% and likely not audible, tuning the enclosure / raising net volume would be more noticeable And were not even talking about the actual sd of the driver, this number varies from model to model. And by your standards of gaining more output the driver could just have more xmax and thus more displacement. But theirs a limit to everything and a point to where it's not worth it, everything has it's trade-offs I guess all in all, its just not worth it? I personally would never use a square driver, even if ssa made it, period.

I would have to disagree with that statement, in simple terms efficiency could be seen as the relationship between input (power being put in) and output (spl). Put 100watts into a 12" xcon and then 100watts into a 18" xcon. The 18" xcon is going to be louder (you could even use less power and it would likely be louder), thus it's more efficient then the 12".

Well, ~25% per cone could be a differnce once you start to multiply them. Sure it could all add up, but for the average consumer, having a 10" square driver vs a 10" circular driver, the difference would be less then 25% and likely not audible, tuning the enclosure / raising net volume would be more noticeable And were not even talking about the actual sd of the driver, this number varies from model to model. And by your standards of gaining more output the driver could just have more xmax and thus more displacement. But theirs a limit to everything and a point to where it's not worth it, everything has it's trade-offs

Yeah, I see your point, but then that would be more money for the consumer, If the buyer could lets say only fit a 10, then basicly, from what your saying, and what the video is saying, the buyer would be more satisfied if he/she bought a square woofer? I know this can't be true because its the overall box, amp, aplication, and the overall subwoofer design, etc etc etc. But, I'm wondering, how come the manufacturers that we love here on SSA, don't produce square woofers. But I think you answered my question by talking about the linear and distortation. I guess that would have to be one the disadvantage of the square design. I wonder if anyone has taken the time to try it out though, like put as much effort into the square design, as they do with the round ones. (besides Kicker) Because maybe if FI, or SA, or SSA or whomever could take the time to develop a proper square woofer design, that would take care of those few flaws in the square design, then maybe they would produce a subwoofer that would have more output without haveing to get a bigger driver? IDK, just wondering. It's not worth it, the disadvantages outweigh it's advantage. The cone area increase isn't dramatic. And it may be very costly for companies like Fi, Sundown, SSA to try and manufacture square cones. As for costing more for the consumer, eh your not talking about a big price jump considering theirs a $20 difference between a 12" and 18" xcon.

Looks nice, next: tint the windows

X2, doesn't sound like anything is wrong with your 3500s but just that your remote wires are all fucked. I'd pull the headunit out, disconnect your remote turn on wires in the back. Run a new wire for the remote turn on to the back of your car, then either connect it to one amp and daisy chain it to the rest, or make a mini distro block for it. And here's some links about adding a delay in between your headunit and amps (Probably wanna do it another day so shit doesn't get confusing) http://www.crutchfield.com/S-g3TYPzhHNUZ/tech/kb327.html http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/how-articles-provided-our-members/2727-designing-your-own-delay-circuit.html Also PAC makes a product that has a built in delay, but I'm not sure if it'll work from the headunit, (it says it can use a low level power source for triggering, ie: speaker wire. but not sure if it'll work on +12v) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18693_PAC-TR-4.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle

This is simple terms and isn't accounting for actual cone displacement and surround widths, but 10" square sub would be 10x10=100square inches. 10" circular sub would be, radius^2(3.14)= 78.5square inches. So yes it does have some more cone area, but you could always have a 12" circular sub and it would have more cone area then both the previous drivers, so if you want more cone area get a bigger driver. The reason they aren't popular from what I've heard is they aren't very linear and distort at higher volumes. But I'll have to look more into this as I've never really looked into this.

Sounds like the remote wires for the 3500s came loose behind the headunit, but the one for the 100.4 is good. You shouldn't have any issues running wire from the 100.4 remote turn on to the 3500ds. But I would still check behind the headunit, as you don't want the wires to reconnect and short circuit if there not connected to anything and just laying on the ground

All your remote wires are coming straight from the headunit right? You don't have any crossovers or anything. So the remote wire from the rca for your mids and highs is working fine. so check the voltage on the remote wire for each saz3500d, put positive lead on remote wire and negative lead on ground, turn on headunit, should see 12v. If not, then your remote wire might be loose or something behind the headunit.

so now the master 3500d won't turn on, where as before it was just the slave 3500d that wouldn't turn on? Your not using a relay for your remote turn on right? As Mac n Cheese said, put a dmm on your remote wire and turn your headunit on, see if the remote wire(s) get 12v.

it's funny cause I saw that episode a while back and just laughed, and earlier tonight my dad said pretty much the exact same thing

x2, Cone area is going to be your friend, and having a good enclosure. From your dimensions it looks like you got around ~40cubes (gross) to play with. Another thing to remember if you go with a lot of drivers and are intending on giving them full rms, then your gonna need a lot of space for batteries and amp(s), so you may in fact have a lot less space then 40cubes for the enclosure. Got any pictures of the interior?

Looks pretty awesome, giant powerhouse. What's it gonna power?

Of course Im not sure lol....Im gunna get out there today and give us dimensions to play with........... Well if were still throwing numbers around, why not put 55 18s in?

oh yea i understand that , an actual sub costs more so its only logical to go with what makes more money, im ok with waiting for a week for the recone kit, but i was wondering how long does it usualy take for paypal to process?..i dont have too much knowledge about paypal its my brother in laws account , so is it a person processing it or a computer?..but my main question like i said was how long does it usualy take to process?..thanks for the help This is a question for paypal, has nothing to do with Fi. Typically if the payment is sent via an echeck (no credit/debit card on paypal account, just bank account) then it takes 4-5 business days to process, if the paypal account has a credit/debit card on the account then the processing is usually instant. Nick types faster then me...

Couldn't you just add an equalizer before the amp and boost the signal range your ssf is set to (10hz). And boost it corresponding to the ssf's slope? Then it'd pretty much even out?, after all the filter is attenuating not a cut off.

Movie Time!

oh that's nice, real nice Looking Stout.

Thanks for the schooling, as usual. x2, much appreciated

View in 720p ftw

I do have a jeep TJ for doing that kind of stuff, but 5-10mph averages get old fast, nothing like the thrill of a dirt bike

2007 rm250

While I can't agree with your subjective analysis of "big difference", let's just look at the numbers. You went from 500w to 750w and gained 1db. You should have gained 10*log(750/500) = 1.76db, so you had .76db of power compression. With double the power, you only gained 1.5db, you should have gained 10*log(1500/750) = 3db. So you had 1.5db of power compression. How much power compression do you think is going to be occurring with 9000 watts on a pair of subwoofers? Oh, and I don't care about your personal subjective analysis of the "audible differences". If you want to prove anything at all with regards to your ability to discern audible differences, go have a properly conducted, scientifically valid test conducted in a controlled environment by someone with the proper training in administering such a test. Does his brother playing him music with random volumes on a cassette player underwater count?