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Everything posted by ssh
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Great observation, you should work for border patrol? It's a wide angle lens rotated 90 degrees so you can actually see the bike and the trail...
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Yeah it's fun, If you live in LA you'd probably have to drive pretty far to ride unless you did motocross
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Jonathan's 1994 Camry Wagon build. | Video(s) on page 22!
ssh replied to swagger_wagon468's topic in Build Logs
All your doing is matching an input voltage with an adjustable knob (gain) to get full power at xxx volume without clipping. Whether you have your gain at 1/10 and max volume at 35/35 or gain at 10/10 and max volume at 10/35, output should be the same. (numbers are made up, but you get the idea) -
I've used these in the past and worked fine, although I didn't find them in bulk like that. Good find
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Jonathan's 1994 Camry Wagon build. | Video(s) on page 22!
ssh replied to swagger_wagon468's topic in Build Logs
You could match the gain on the amp(s) so your head unit would play loudest without distortion at it's max volume. Assuming all speakers are being ran off amps and not head unit power. right? but then volume might be too low at normal listening volume? not sure if that is the reasoning for most tutorials suggestions 3/4 volume when adjusting gains.... I could be wrong though.. When using head unit power you can typically turn the volume up 3/4 of the way to max before it starts to distort, but what I'm saying is when your using an external amplifier for all your speakers then your no longer relying on your head units power. So you could set all your amp gains accordingly with the head unit at max volume. It would theoretically work and I don't see any reason it would not, but I don't have an amp for my mids and highs yet so I haven't tried it. -
Jonathan's 1994 Camry Wagon build. | Video(s) on page 22!
ssh replied to swagger_wagon468's topic in Build Logs
You could match the gain on the amp(s) so your head unit would play loudest without distortion at it's max volume. Assuming all speakers are being ran off amps and not head unit power. right? -
10" in an optimal box will kill a 12" in a box too small Thanks for the quick reply. I'm still not sure I could even fit the 12" small ported through the trunk opening. Cardboard mock-up still leaves me unsure. Going with the 10" will make my life a lot easier anyway. I'd still be able to get to my spare without to much trouble. If SPL is a big concern I would try to mock up a 12 in optimal ported cf with an external aero port.External port means that you do not subtract port volume in the enclosure design therefor making the enclosure smaller Bigger
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I think you need a bigger gauge lol. That's some serious flex going on!
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Any manufacture on here has dustcaps, but just shoot Nick or Scott an email from Fi
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I need some insight for my next build
ssh replied to scooterkrunch's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
I agree on doing port on same side as sub so you have more options for testing what sounds best. Every vehicle has different cabin characteristics so it's hard to say what will sound better or louder in your car. In my vehicle I noticed an audible increase in firing forward but didn't hear any difference in sq (but then again I wasn't paying attention for sq when testing). And J, your profile pic = true love -
Welcome to the forum Saw your photo of your s10, looks loud me like! Videos?
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Buy me a plane ticket?
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Port down firing? Near ground or against side of seat?
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I didn't even catch it was a 1500, i saw the size and automatically thought of a 1000! haha Very nice. Sick car BTW Exactly, i had to take another look at the pic lol
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oh iight. how would i go about making the box with the slot port? just do like a L shape with the wood or could i do 2 slot ports right in the middle using 2 pieces of wood leading to each speaker chamber? You can certainly put the port in center and do as your saying but I'm not sure how you calculate the port length. I'm guessing you would add up the sides but not really sure to be honest. As for the "L" shaped port, that's pretty straight forward. Distances between enclosure panels and port piece would be port width and height. Port length would be the length of the "L" If you ask nicely Bromo may be able to make you a simple spreadsheet image of the port dimensions and cut outs
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Nice products in a nice car. I'm jealous how much shorter the new saz1500 is to the old one.
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Just got back dirt biking in the SNOW in Arizona. Video later this week
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Slotted port is using wood to make the port. Or aeroports. Both ways are "ported"
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Umm fix your broken bar? Depth? Pictures? What type of tuning are you going for? What type of music do you listen to? Yeah its in the process of being welded back on. Not sure of the depth, would it really matter? Just dont want it taking up my whole trunk. Pictures of what? and I listen to rap,hip hop, rock. Anything and everything brotha. Kinda tricky making a box with only two dimensions... You say you don't want it taking up your whole trunk, but we don't know your trunk's depth so how are we supposed to know how much space the box will take up? Help us help you. Give us your trunks depth and the max depth your willing to use for a box. Also what's the dimensions on the openings of your trunk? Don't wanna make a box too big and not be able to fit it in, unless your willing to build it in your trunk... Since you don't sound like your competing and this is your daily driver, I would personally tune ~33hz. -Stefan Alright, my box i had in before (completely sealed) was 16" in height. I wanna lower it a little because my previous box put pressure on my torsion bar, and broke it off the weld. Anyways, maybe 15" in height, 35" wide and possibly around 18" or a little more in depth. Would that work? I just dont wanna break the torsion bar off weld again. Nah im not competing. just a daily driver. How did your box put pressure on your torsion bar for your suspension and break it? 15" height, 35" width, 19" depth would give you 4.58cubes gross. After driver, bracing, and port displacement you'll be on the higher side of the recommended volume requirements (which will be good). its an acura for ya. when you shut the trunk the torsion bar lowers to secure the latch when it shuts. and when i shut it after placing my previous box in there( where it was too tall) the bar had no room to come down and popped it off weld. iight cool so if i do 19" depth, I should be good to go? and itlll still sound nice? also how big do my ports need to be and building it, I have no clue where to start? maybe a blueprint of what to do? ahh okay Yeah 19" in depth should be good, your net volume will be perfect. 33hz would be good for daily. Do you want to do a slot port or aero ports (circular pvc ports)?
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Umm fix your broken bar? Depth? Pictures? What type of tuning are you going for? What type of music do you listen to? Yeah its in the process of being welded back on. Not sure of the depth, would it really matter? Just dont want it taking up my whole trunk. Pictures of what? and I listen to rap,hip hop, rock. Anything and everything brotha. Kinda tricky making a box with only two dimensions... You say you don't want it taking up your whole trunk, but we don't know your trunk's depth so how are we supposed to know how much space the box will take up? Help us help you. Give us your trunks depth and the max depth your willing to use for a box. Also what's the dimensions on the openings of your trunk? Don't wanna make a box too big and not be able to fit it in, unless your willing to build it in your trunk... Since you don't sound like your competing and this is your daily driver, I would personally tune ~33hz. -Stefan Alright, my box i had in before (completely sealed) was 16" in height. I wanna lower it a little because my previous box put pressure on my torsion bar, and broke it off the weld. Anyways, maybe 15" in height, 35" wide and possibly around 18" or a little more in depth. Would that work? I just dont wanna break the torsion bar off weld again. Nah im not competing. just a daily driver. How did your box put pressure on your torsion bar for your suspension and break it? 15" height, 35" width, 19" depth would give you 4.58cubes gross. After driver, bracing, and port displacement you'll be on the higher side of the recommended volume requirements (which will be good).
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Umm fix your broken bar? Depth? Pictures? What type of tuning are you going for? What type of music do you listen to? Yeah its in the process of being welded back on. Not sure of the depth, would it really matter? Just dont want it taking up my whole trunk. Pictures of what? and I listen to rap,hip hop, rock. Anything and everything brotha. Kinda tricky making a box with only two dimensions... You say you don't want it taking up your whole trunk, but we don't know your trunk's depth so how are we supposed to know how much space the box will take up? Help us help you. Give us your trunks depth and the max depth your willing to use for a box. Also what's the dimensions on the openings of your trunk? Don't wanna make a box too big and not be able to fit it in, unless your willing to build it in your trunk... Since you don't sound like your competing and this is your daily driver, I would personally tune ~33hz. -Stefan
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Umm fix your broken bar? Depth? Pictures? What type of tuning are you going for? What type of music do you listen to?
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Powerbass looks really dope.
ssh replied to An-i-no's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Not the same then. x2, different vehicle, different cabin characteristics. Hell even tearing out a whole system and reinstalling in the same car is bound to be different on the TL. -
After mounting you really get some perspective on how big those amps are
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FS : 30.9 Hz Qts : 0.60 Qes : 0.66 Qms : 6.12 VAS : 92.7 L Mms : 308.4 g Box Suggestions: Sealed @ 2.5 cubes (Qtc = 0.888) - F3 of 42 Hz Ported @ 3.0 cubes tuned to 35 Hz - F3 of 30 Hz Source: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/43804-sundown-sa-15-pre-order/ Displacement for the driver is ballpark probably around ~0.15-0.2 and 0.05 between those numbers isn't going to mean much, just affect tuning a tad, but nothing you'll notice by ear.