ssh

Mine as well use particle board

You should buy three in spite of the above post. So how's that Sundown Audio SA-12 d2 I sold you off of CA.com a while back doing? I don't know I never powered it Inspected it, everything looked good then it sat in the box for about a month and I sold it locally. Plans changed so I didn't need it. Funny thing is, when I first got into car audio it was THE driver I wanted... It was nice however to hold one in person, looked well built.

You should buy three in spite of the above post.

Yes you can connect the second alt to where the first alt connects to your batteries (whether it be your front battery or all the way to the rear). I would run a few strands of 0gauge from the alts to the batteries though. If your running multiple alts, your likely running large amp(s) and pulling massive current, thus needing more wire for carrying current.

MAKE A THREAD IN THE PROPER FORUM SECTION FOR HELP.

First girl = awesome attitude Second girl = Oh new txt message! Gangsta! Gotten any meter time recently?

I believe some people who haven't actually heard a BL, BTL, get into a mindset that the BL and BTL models don't perform musically or up to par with other drivers in the price range, but that they just get really loud. I've personally owned an 18" BL tuned to 33hz with optimal volume and it sounded very good to me. Kicked ass on tight/fast response, attacks in rock music (metallica, tool), and the lows from rap music were breath taking (literally) May I ask what your front stage is? As long as you have a nice set of midbass drivers crossed on the lower spectrum, say ~60hz-80hz you should be good. They can easily be blended in with your front stage, but the sub stage can certainly be excessively louder then the front stage. (but that's what a bass knob is for

There's a couple different ways: When running 2+ alternators, you can use one at 14.4v(although most will sit around 15v)) for your stock electrical, starting battery, head unit. The second and/or rest of the alts can be set to 16v for a 14v battery(s) or 18v for a 16v batter(s). These batteries would be completely isolated from your stock electrical, they could be a large battery bank in the rear of the car for just the amplifiers. Some amps aren't stable on 16v or 18v, so you have to check with the manufacture, but the upside is increased power. Or you could run 2+ alternators all set at 14.4v for stock electrical, battery bank, and amps. This is easier since nothing is separated. But when running multiple alts you have the choice to use some for stock electrical and some for amps with a higher voltage. This is handy because then you don't need to use step-downs if you have a single alt but want 16v or 18v. The case of an alternator is the ground, when it's mounted everything else in the vehicle (chassis, battery negative terminal, etc) is grounded to it (alt case). Hope that helps.

Shits nuts. Love the reactions, classic bass reactions ftw

I'm guessing this is your daily driver, not for strict competition? Believe it or not but some panel flex is used for gaining additional tenths on the meter Anyhow as Skizzy said, 3/4" mdf is the usual, safe bet. Double baffle (two sheets of 3/4" glued together) the panel that the drivers mount to, and internal bracing ftw

I'm on the flip side, if you have the room to do a ported enclosure for the BL, and looking for output, I'd get the BL. The BL is still a musical driver and sounds good at high output, but if SQ is your main priority then I'd go with the Q.

Looking good. Love all the rollover banners, and the dealer/map page

Check your voltage drop at full tilt. Depending on your voltage drop, you may just need a battery in the back.

Nope, unless you switch to a 16v setup. So you can do ~15v and under on stock electrical, may need a bypass harness so the car's computer doesn't regulate the alt's power output, but most h/o alt companies will give you everything you need to get it up and running.

I've never had anything that severe, but for some reason unknown to me, one of my ears felt like it was "plugged" and I could only hear out of my other ear for about two months. It drove me nuts... Point is, you don't miss something til it's gone, and in this case, your fucked.

Everything on page looks correct, but the title says sa-12 May confuse someone

Sold him a pair of bravox speakers a couple weeks ago, transaction couldn't of been any simpler! Thanks, Stefan

8 ohm drivers are generally more efficient vs a 4 ohm driver with the same power. The driver isn't more efficient. Higher resistance or impedance in this case causes the amp to produce less power, and less strain vs a lower ohm load (say 1ohm for example), thus having a higher efficiency. But that doesn't mean it's more efficient on the same amount of power, because a 8ohm driver and 4ohm driver on the same amp will never see equal power (unless gains are changed...) well i ment the same power as lets say a 4 ohm driver on 100 watts vs a 8 ohm driver given 100 watts, the 8 ohm driver is more efficient. Still incorrect man. Depending on the drivers resistance, will change the electrical impedance and cause the amplifier to make more or less power. A direct swap out from a 4ohm driver to a 8ohm driver will cause the amp to see a higher impedance and thus create less power (same thing as wiring your subs from 1ohm to 4ohm. Amplifier produces less power but is more efficient, but just because it's more efficient doesn't mean it's going to be louder, or that the actual driver is more efficient... Hope that makes sense What if the amp has a regulated power supply and makes the same power at 2-8ohms. Now what? What point is trying to be proven here? Your right this is kinda pointless. But I believe amps with regulated power supplies have circuity that constantly adjusts the duty cycle to keep the rail voltage at it's target voltage. Thus allowing different power voltage (11v-14v or what ever) and different impedance's at the same rated power level (rms) At least that's how I understood it

The fuse(s) that are blowing are the "on amp" 30amp fuses right?

Don't really know your goals, vehicle, space constraints, amps, etc. But if you have the space and are on a budget, may be better off going with more cone area and less power. A few new or used entry level subs with ~500-1000watts total or what ever can still get plenty loud. But hard to help or give advice when we don't know the rest of the plan.

Were you pretty active on SMD? Perhaps that's where the name sounds familiar? Any how, welcome back

8 ohm drivers are generally more efficient vs a 4 ohm driver with the same power. The driver isn't more efficient. Higher resistance or impedance in this case causes the amp to produce less power, and less strain vs a lower ohm load (say 1ohm for example), thus having a higher efficiency. But that doesn't mean it's more efficient on the same amount of power, because a 8ohm driver and 4ohm driver on the same amp will never see equal power (unless gains are changed...) well i ment the same power as lets say a 4 ohm driver on 100 watts vs a 8 ohm driver given 100 watts, the 8 ohm driver is more efficient. Still incorrect man. Depending on the drivers resistance, will change the electrical impedance and cause the amplifier to make more or less power. A direct swap out from a 4ohm driver to a 8ohm driver will cause the amp to see a higher impedance and thus create less power (same thing as wiring your subs from 1ohm to 4ohm. Amplifier produces less power but is more efficient, but just because it's more efficient doesn't mean it's going to be louder, or that the actual driver is more efficient... Hope that makes sense

8 ohm drivers are generally more efficient vs a 4 ohm driver with the same power. The driver isn't more efficient. Higher resistance or impedance in this case causes the amp to produce less power, and less strain vs a lower ohm load (say 1ohm for example), thus having a higher efficiency. But that doesn't mean it's more efficient on the same amount of power, because a 8ohm driver and 4ohm driver on the same amp will never see equal power (unless gains are changed...)

You have a nice ass. Does it need to perform musically? or just tones? $300 new only? You can get a lot of used higher output drivers for $300...

http://www.npr.org/2011/01/08/132764367/congresswoman-shot-in-arizona