ssh

based on what? the look? Don't make assumptions, period.

no problem, just try and keep your drug references to yourself

yeah theres not alot of space but a ssa dcon 10 will fit fine, im just afraid it will be all bass and no vocals since its only one pair of speakers . should i put another pair of speakers in also I would say try a single pair and go from there, but I doubt the dcon will drown your mids and highs, it should blend in well.

I'm guessing your on a budget since your looking at a hifonics amp? You don't need 2kw to properly power a btl, just a thing to keep in mind. I would always buy quality used products before new mediocre stuff. Your stock electrical isn't going to support a true 1500watt rms amplifier, adding a few batteries will help, but isn't a solid fix, sure you could play at full tilt for a few minutes draining your batteries all the time, then turn it down while your alt tries to keep up and recharge everything? I'd get an aftermarket alt, don't have to get anything super gonzo if your budget doesn't allow for it. Capacitors are worthless in car audio, don't hold big enough charge to mean a damn, just another thing that discharges and requires charging (all the time). Not sure how big of a system you could have if you don't know what a ported enclosure is... The reason for putting a subwoofer in a box is to separate the soundwaves so they don't cancel each other out. So a sealed enclosure "traps" the backwave into the box, and the output you hear is just the "front wave". Ported enclosure, allows for the backwave to be added to the "front wave" without cancellation. So you can theoretically get double the output if done correctly. The lower the tuning on a ported enclosure, the louder the bottom end will be. Tune higher and the higher tones will be louder, but you'll lose the bottom end. I'm no acoustic engineer so my terms and wording could be off a little, but you get the general idea.

your box is tuned to 37hz? How about you build a new box and drop tuning to 30hz with lots of port area.

Never had any issues with them myself, glad to hear they're taken care of you.

All can perform musically if the enclosure is built right. Out of the above, I've only used the BL, got loud, and sounded good doing it. Why exactly are you switching? Is your goal to maintain same spl as your 18 but have better sq? cone area does not dictate sq.

and it's the manufacturers fault right? Good read. But seriously this is a perfect example as to why many high end speakers come with no warranty, they don't want to deal with people blowing everything up and saying the drivers were faulty.

per, or total? I believe that is total. So a whooping 18.75watts per driver before rise in impedance due to heat. Perfect case of "you don't need thousands of watts to get loud" but it helps

Your ignorant and clearly don't know how to use one and the reasoning behind them. Good luck finding one OP. Try emailing Jacob of Sundown.

is it one channel per speaker for the front stage? because it only has the one pair of door speakers. You need two channels (Left and Right) for a pair of speakers in your front stage.

Do you have a design of the box? if not post up dimensions like stated above. Do you know the port length? measure the port width and height as well. Fi doesn't have layouts for specific cars, so he either got a basic design for an optimal enclosure volume and it just happens to fit your car, or he adjusted dimensions it would fit, or he didn't actually contact them. Mind posting a video of the driver when it sounds like it's "bottoming out", record the driver so we can see the excursion (not saying well be able to look and say it's moving by XXmm but it may help) What are the settings on the amp set to. List all settings please.

Why don't you just meet there, seems easier?

It may, but either way your not going to hear the difference between 600watts and 800watts. Just get what fits your space.

Well thats a different storry I just saw the price on the site you listed for $1099 and was like "fuck that" go for it and tell us how it is

You'd be paying roughly 36cents per watt. or $1099 for 3000watts. Where as a brand new crescendo 3kwp is $550 for ~3300watts. although there currently out of stock. Personally, I would just buy a used saz3500d or 4500d. Hell, buy one of Marks new 4500ds if your willing to spend that much, you'd have tons of headroom and won't need to upgrade amps for the future. (Both amps, 4500d and this massive one are huge!).

Dude, she is fat... How is she fat? She has an hourglass waist, along with big boobies(probably fake) and some meat on her bones, I'm sorry but I don't fuck anorexic women, I'd end up breaking them in half. That's great.

With the MB Quart Discuss 1500.1 at full tilt? wired to what ohm? I would check the voltage with a dmm, or an adjusted stinger volt meter, better accuracy then the gauge in your dash.

no, not really.

Never heard of it, It's 2ohm stable, not 1ohm. Just something to remember Also has a max voltage rating of 15v, not sure how precise or "how big of a deal" it is for it to see over 15v. But I know my h/o alt (dc power) on a stock 12v system reaches voltages up to 15.5, not sure if that extra half a volt would harm it.

I would take a look at the ssa icons. They have great power handling and get loud for a SQ driver. They also fit right in your budget. Only thing I suggest, When you wire up your amp to 1ohm and are setting the gain, watch your voltage drop. Most stock electrical in vehicles cannot support a 1500watt rms without upgrades. Running the amp with lower gain will be easier on your electrical and may or may not be that much of an audible difference in output. Just a few things to consider

what about 35hz and go with big port area.

I get stuff mixed up all the time Just didn't want the OP getting confused lol

Yes there will be a differene, how much of a difference will be hard to tell. Usually with a smaller box you gain efficiency (sub will need less power to perform) and you may sacrifice some low end and gain some more overall output. This is usually the difference between bigger and smaller boxes. The question is why do you want to go to a smaller box, this will determine if it will be justifiable. Is it worth it I doubt it but more information will on why you want to change box sizes will help us answer this question better. A change in box size from 1.5-1.35 wont yield that much of a difference but 1.5-1.0 will. That's polar opposite of the truth. Bigger box = increased efficiency, less power handling smaller box = decreased efficiency, more power handling. Don't bother building a new box if your going from 1.5cubes to 1.35cubes. Unless your competing and trying to gain some power handling then perhaps, but if you were seriously competing you wouldn't have asked the question.

No, don't bother building the new box.