ssh

I know right.

I'm going fucking nuts. Trying to check the status of threads, checking pms, waiting for responses, and number crunching... Car I bought, supposedly the last owner just had the timing belt changed (80k miles), but not sure if they did the tensioner... I called every dealership in the city and had them check their records from the vin and couldn't find anything. So no choice but to go ahead and get it done, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, seals, $650 at revolvstore. gah, I feel like an addict, just wanting some bass back into my life... wtf, rehab for bass. <-= fail. grr, shit. :suicide-santa: :suicide-santa: :suicide-santa: :suicide-santa:

Imagine the cabin having a volume of say 200cubes. Then that enclosure takes up 50cubes. you now have 150cubes to pressurize. VS. 200cubes, walled setup/enclosure, everything from driver & passenger seats forward to pressurize, say 40cubes. The smaller the area being pressurized, more cabin gain, more output. Imagine playing a 10" subwoofer in your house vs your car...

Why should they be walled? I'm just curious here. What would he gain from going subs up/port back like it is now, to going to a wall? Kef It's a giant long box upfiring, so the space above the box is useless, it can't be used for storage or anything, its just more cabin that needs to be pressurized. So if you walled it off, that area would be used for the enclosure and the overall cabin would become smaller, therefore it would be a lot easier to pressurize and get louder, and you wouldn't lose or gain any storage space. Stefanhinote, your a mind reader! shh,

Why should they be walled? I'm just curious here. What would he gain from going subs up/port back like it is now, to going to a wall? Kef It's a giant long box upfiring, so the space above the box is useless, it can't be used for storage or anything, its just more cabin that needs to be pressurized. So if you walled it off, that area would be used for the enclosure and the overall cabin would become smaller, therefore it would be a lot easier to pressurize and get louder, and you wouldn't lose or gain any storage space.

Cone area doesn't affect SQ. 15s, 18s, etc, all in the same driver line will sound the same, just have different amounts of output.

Now I can pm & call you everyday!

The closest I got to Russian is, veelcome

If it was me, I'd buy a plate amp or home theater type amp, something that already runs on 120v (wall socket). It's possible to do what you want, but it's going to be somewhat jerry-rigged and what not.

Just so were clear, the ignition wire should only receive 12v when the vehicle is on.

Pics please My car is white with black interior that sounds nice, does the paint affect the heat dissipation. No.. I have it wired at .25 and doesn't even get warm. But I don't know If I want to sell it. It was my first sundown product. And its my baby still. Car broke down on me I took it out before I let them tow the car...lol 0.25 is pretty damn low.

So the big red wire is between the alt case and engine chassis? Kinda unnecessary but it won't pose any problems. I only see one small red wire. Is the second one behind the relay that's zip tied? Did you wire the red ignition wire to an aux switched 12v in the fuse box? Or tapped into stock alt ignition wiring? The one small red wire I see, looks like it connects to a blue/purple wire and then goes directly into the front battery. <-Is this the ignition wire? If so, it shouldn't be on constant 12v.

Good luck OP, post back if anything is unclear or need more help.

For this scenario it's broken down like this: stock alt charges front starting battery and the cars electrical system, and headunit. H/O alt has a set of wires, it may or may not have a blue wire, if it does, it goes right on the output stud, idk what its for but I know where it goes. The red wire is for ignition, can be hooked up to the ignition wire going to the stock alt, or directly into the fuse box to some extra ignition relay. The white wire is ground, ground it to the frame or engine chassis. I don't believe he has a bypass harness since the h/o alt won't be connected to the stock electrical. Now you just run your big wire from the output stud on the h/o alt to the positive terminal on the rear battery(s). Negative terminals should be grounded to frame with equivalent big wire (0/1) Start it up, stock alt does it's normal job, signal is sent from tapped ignition source to h/o alt, h/o alt "wakes up" and starts charging the batteries in the rear and supplying power to anything connected to the rear batteries. Run your remote turn on wire from your headunit to your amps as usual, and connect your B+ (power) to the positive terminals on the rear batts and the amp negative/ground to either chassis or rear negative battery terminals. It's my bed time.

Yes, but the way I'm suggesting will work perfect for him as long as his stock alt hasn't been disconnected in any way. He'll then be able to wrap this up and have a vehicle to drive.

I'm simply stating I don't know about mixing the stock alt and dc alt on the same electrical system. But I am 100% positive about wiring to the rear for just the amps and batteries not connected to the stock electrical. Believe it or not, but a lot of people install this stuff without the aid of the manufacturer, (I certainty didn't because I had a bypass harness with no instructions, so I had to call up DC Power. Thankfully I can use what I learned and help him out.) Good luck getting a hold of DC Power

I just want to clarify so we aren't confused, by 14v, your rear batteries are 12v and charge at 14.4v (although alt will likely charge at 15v) yes , sorry about that. Well I'm positive you can run a big wire (0/1) from the output stud to the rear(where just your stereo batteries are). The wire would connect to the positive terminal on the closest battery in the rear. The negative terminal on the batteries would be grounded to the frame. I would do the above because it would allow your h/o alt to charge and supply amperage directly to your stereo. Your stock alt should be able to run your stock electrical system with no issues. Plus I'm not sure what happens if you mix a stock alt and h/o alt to the same electrical system, one is charging at 13.5v-14.4v(stock alt) while the h/o alt will be doing 14.4v-15.4v (h/o alt). I have no experience with trying to do this. thats exactly what i was thinking, but some of my friends told me that i needed a wire from the dc alt to my front battery too... just wanted to confirm.... i guess ill try it huh ?... Your stock alt is still wired up right? As long as you didn't disconnect your stock alt in any way then it should charge your front battery and maintain your cars electrical system and headunit. Then your h/o alt will charge your batteries in the rear and supply amperage to all your amps.

I just want to clarify so we aren't confused, by 14v, your rear batteries are 12v and charge at 14.4v (although alt will likely charge at 15v) yes , sorry about that. Well I'm positive you can run a big wire (0/1) from the output stud to the rear(where just your stereo batteries are). The wire would connect to the positive terminal on the closest battery in the rear. The negative terminal on the batteries would be grounded to the frame. I would do the above because it would allow your h/o alt to charge and supply amperage directly to your stereo. Your stock alt should be able to run your stock electrical system with no issues. Plus I'm not sure what happens if you mix a stock alt and h/o alt to the same electrical system, one is charging at 13.5v-14.4v(stock alt) while the h/o alt will be doing 14.4v-15.4v (h/o alt). I have no experience with trying to do this.

x2 Before I got my dc alt in, my saz1500d would get fairly hot, all stock electrical (though I did have the amp gain'd down so voltage wouldn't drop below 13v). Once I got the dc alt installed, the amp was almost cool to the touch, the difference was night and day. So my point is, if you have enough amperage to feed the amp whether it comes from an alt or a series of batteries, your amp is going to run a whole lot cooler and last a whole lot longer

I just want to clarify so we aren't confused, by 14v, your rear batteries are 12v and charge at 14.4v (although alt will likely charge at 15v)

When I wired my dc alt up, there was a small red wire for ignition (low amperage signal sent to alt to turn on and produce power) and a small white wire (grounded to engine or body). There was also a small blue wire but it was short and just went on output stud. the actual alt case is the entire grounding point for everything being charged, so once the alt is installed in the bay, it's grounded and what not. Now you may have some extra wiring for bypassing pcm that stuff. Next, you need some big wire w/ring terminal to go from the output stud (copper stud with threads) to your batteries. Is this second alt 14v or 16v setup? Is it being used for charging the stock electrical as well, or just the stereo? <-Depending on this, will depend where the big wire from the output stud will go (either front battery(s), or rear).

T. Williams “30 Degree”

12" btl right? box volume? What's the height of the box?

510watts at 4ohms, lower the gain on the amp and it'll produce less power. Would the idea of putting a small enclosure behind the center console work for you? Just disconnect the wires and pull it out when you need to carry 3 people, otherwise you can carry 2. It would be simple, fast to take in and out, and you wouldn't have to mess with your center console. any amp wont do its rated power 99% of the time on music regardless of gain levels. i dont know, i dont see how SQ, and "SQL" are dependant. u can tell me ur fi q is a great SQ sub, but when its design proves otherwise, it falls into the "SQL" category. FI responded to my email when asking about the SQ of the fi Q, "its just a standard motor". yet when u read about the xbl2 motor, or the lambada motor, u can see its in a different league than the fi q i would love to do the single sub behind the console, but it would again have to be an 8" sub unless someone can explain how to fit a 10 or 12. its only 9" wide in every way u look at it, firing up, down, left, right, etc. I perfectly understand your thoughts about Fi if that's their response to you. And if it doesn't sound good enough for you then obviously don't buy it. Sorry about the back being all messy, hopefully you can still tell what I'm getting at: So even if the box was directly behind the center console and stuck out a little on the sides, you couldn't manage a 10 1/2" - 11" width for a 10" driver? Sorry if I sound pushy on fitting a 10", just seems odd that you can't fit it behind the center console, considering the space is open, I don't see why your limited to 9" in width.

Looks like you need to put the belt back on Do you have wire (1/0) going from the output stud to the positive terminal on your battery?