ssh

Oh yeah, xcons here you come When I heard xcons in the past, I thought, wow this is super loud yet sounds good, nothing bad at all. This is a sweet driver, but I'm not spending 800bucks... Good luck with your new setup, fi products do not disappoint loved my bl, just like I loved my icons, but in a different way

Couldn't be worded any better.

BTL. the btl has a new series, I believe the n1, n2, nsg. I believe the n2 would be the "daily driver" where as one of the others is spl tones only.

The calculator I used must have been way off or I inputted a wrong dimension do this^, op.

The only difference between the 10" driver and 12" driver is output, depending on the enclosure. The larger driver will not have less sq. But depending on the enclosure, one could have more or less output, or more or less linear response. I would go for the 10" ported, it fits your dimensions well and I believe it would have more output then a sealed 12"

do you mean sealed 12 compared to ported 10? From your max dimensions it looks like a ported enclosure for a 10" Q would fit well. I came up with 1.6cubes from max dimensions, and driver displacement is 0.12, and specs from fi is .5-1.2 cuft @ 28-33Hz. So after driver displacement and depending on your actual box dimensions, you should fall into the higher spectrum of recommended volume. You can always tune lower to even out the response so to speak. Say ~29hz. What subwoofers have you owned / heard in the past? What sounded good to you? I understand you want SQ, but sometimes people get the idea that spl geared drivers such as the bl or btl aren't musical, and that's not the case

This is one of those epic rare logs, everything done right, no cutting corners, father & son work, every detail perfect. Definitely cool to watch from the beginning to finish, and additions here and there

I'd just use 0/1 gauge for power and grounds. 12gauge for speaker wire.

Yep, just added one run of 0/1 welding wire from output stud on stock alt to positive terminal on battery, no additional ground wires. It should be enough to get me by for a few months until DC can make an alt for my car

Welding is continuous power, way more than any car audio application.... Not to mention all the welding wire I've ordered from welding supply.com is all copper, not CCA.

idk wich wud b loudr, port up or port back, it depends on da car, evry1 is diff. a 280 dc alt along wit a few gud batts shud b fine.

Okay I'm bad at build logs... I installed some hertz coaxial 5 1/4" speakers in the doors yesterday, sound pretty good, obviously not going to keep up with the sub stage but that's okay at this point Also installed stinger volt gauge in my dash, voltage at idle with radio, ac, etc all off, was ~12.2volts. Driving at 2k rpm was about 13.5v Added some wire from the output stud on stock alt to front battery... yes it's calibrated. Now well just see how it does with the saz1500d

If you can't find a decent local box builder, there's always Argent Audio here on the forum

Haven't looked at your build in a while, nice to come back and see all the progress I'm curious to see how the front dash area comes out

Between the 250amp h/o alt, whatever starting battery, and a large xspower or kinetik, or even some deka 9a31s you should be good. Not sure about using an optima battery, I've read they don't like being charged at 14.9v+, that they don't last very long. To give you an idea, I ran a saz1500d at 1ohm with a 230amp alt and no extra batteries, full tilt voltage wouldn't drop below ~13.8

Skar 12 has a much lower Fs, lower motor force, triple stack vs double stack, different inductance, looser suspension, and isn't as loud. So no, they aren't "almost identical". Then I've heard wrong, good thing you posted.

My son is currently running 2 Pioneer 12s in a 4'cu ft box tuned at 35hz.Goals.....he wants everyone to go "wow".I say....hair trick....but we need more cone area for that.Will there be a big difference from the Pionner subs to either of the sa12s or Skar 12s? Not to be a dick, but the last time I checked pioneer made more then one model. Is that ap1800 amp 1ohm stable? Willing to upgrade electrical? Extra battery at the least Pioneer subs came from Walmart....TS-W303R.....no offense taken.Yes amp is 1 ohm stable.I want to make sure that I am able to run the SA12s or Skars @ 1 ohm to use all available power. I figured we were gonna have to do a extra battery.Will 4 gauge power and ground be enough? Either the sa12 or skars will be a big upgrade from those pioneers. The sa12s should be fine on that amp at 1ohm. Depending on the extra battery and how long it'll be playing at full tilt, you should be fine without a h/o alt. 4gauge isn't going to cut it unfortunately, order some 0/1 welding wire from weldingsupply.com or any 0/1 gauge car audio wire if you want to spend more

just take it easy on the bass knob for a bit DC Power can't make an alt for my vehicle for about 3 months

Sounds like you need some bls or btls.

Man you got a lot of work to do But it'll be awesome in the end.

Looking good, I love the look of welded metal encasing batteries, and amp racks etc. Looks industrial grade

I just trim the ends a little and twist the wire to a point per say, never have any issues. Not sure about soldering the ends, solder isn't that conductive compared to copper or cca wire.

The banana plugs can go on the side where the wire goes, which doesn't help in your case. As far as the bottom, not sure. I'd be worried they'd rattle looose

hmm, maybe you shoulda wired it before mounting

is your headunit powering any speakers? or is everything powered off amps? Perhaps your ground on the hu isn't sufficient enough when you turn the volume up?