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LoL Our builds logs are stalled because the monsters cant move in till their homes are built. Yeah, has Andrew started your box yet? xcons xcons xcons

Awesome score, especially being a trunk

Why not lol just coat it... Plastic: ^I've used those before, worked well in my case

Box looks great, I vote for wrapping it in leather

Do you have a buddy who you can swap amps with just for testing? No real good way for us to tell you how to check if your amp is working 100% correctly. If it turns on and has output then there isn't much to check, I guess you could use a clamp meter to try and gauge the output, but that's pretty vague as is.

The extra set of terminals on the amp are there for convenience, as you stated they are internally bridged, meaning both sets of positive connect behind all the plastic casing, and both sets of negative connect as well. Use the wiring config from 12volt for diagrams on wiring: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

Depends on your listening habits Are you going to be playing at full tilt 99% of the time? Or just for short demos? What battery were you looking at for the rear? I'd get the biggest xs power or kinetik you could afford, watch your voltage at full tilt, if it's consistently low, get a h/o alt.

That's certainly something to take into consideration. I've used welding wire for both my vehicles and haven't had any issues running it around corners, under seats, etc.

That's clean.

Thanks for emphasizing what I just said. I said the BL curve dapers, I didn't say it doesn't taper TILL full excursion. Emphasizing what you just said? What the hell are you talking about? You said: "The point being made is that in no instance is the sub being maxed out, or even close to it. Most of where your bad sound comes from where the BL curve tapers off or other components like spiders and surrounds are stressed." I pointed out that even if the sub is not being "maxed out", there will still be non-linearities introduced as most BL/Cms curves taper long before the sub is "maxed out" (your comment implies otherwise).....and then provided an example of a scenario where the sub would, in fact, be "maxed out". Neither of my statements remotely support yours. Now you're just making stuff up. Let's go back and look at this convo from the beginning (paraphrasing): Bassahaulic: The SQ champion used L7's You: Yeah but that doesn't mean they were used for SQ judging Me: Yes they were You: Yeah but subs only move 1mm since the peak SPL is so low, so everything sounds good Me: Just because peak SPL is low doesn't mean the sub isn't working hard You: Yeah but things don't sound bad until the sub is maxed and the BL tapers off,and none of these subs are maxed out Me: The linearity of a driver can degrade long before Xmax is reached and the sub is "maxed out", and here's an example of a sub that would be operating at or near Xmax You: Thanks for proving my point. What ?! How does that make sense to you? And you would be wrong. Songs on the IASCA CD have musical content used during the SQ judging portion that drop into the 20hz region and below (Planet Kryptonite has an 18hz organ, for example). I guess you need to go back and check again. You just said exactly why SQ is subjective. 1 person can think something is more accurate than another, which is their opinion..... which is subjective. If it wasn't subjective, everybody would score the same at every show with every judge if the system never changed. One year at SBN 1 judges scores were thrown out all together. Why? Because there were 2 or 3 guys that scored approximately 50% lower than the other 2 judges. The judge didnt like those people, so he scored them low. Does that happen in SPL? No. Why? Because SPL isn't subjective, what it does is what it does. In a subjective format, you can fall victim to psycho-acoustics, a poor judge, politics, etc. Ok. I'll make this really simple. Prove with actual substantive evidence that the subbass of any of the winning vehicles that used L7 was either inferior to the other vehicles, or that there was bias in the judging. Stop talking and prove it. Othewise you're just talking out of your ass. You can't, so stop trying. I'm not saying that the fact they were used makes them the best subbass drivers. Rather, simply that they at least don't sound bad. No, you said L7's sound good, I said at a certain point nothing sounds good and at low levels it's not difficult to make a sub sound good. Go back and reread the convo. Let's start from here: In Biggs vehicle the 10L7 would have needed to operate at or near Xmax, and it was a winning competition vehicle. (Your previous statements were that subs don't work very hard in these installs [proven wrong], and that things don't start going bad until Xmax where the sub is stressed therefore they all sound good [not quite]). So, I just provided an example contradictory to your "points". Your turn. You've yet to provide any useful content, so it's extremely difficult to realize what point you are trying to make. I fully understand when subs are or are not used, and fully understand at what point things go bad. From this conversation, I can't say the same for you. You started out claiming the L7's weren't used. I pointed out they were. You claim they are so quiet that everything sounds good (and claim only 1mm of excursion is necessary....LOL), I point out that subs work a lot harder in these installs than you are trying to portray. So, let me rephrase. If you can find a way to provide some useful content, please do so. Because so far.....you haven't. I can't believe I just had a 2 page discussion with someone over the simple point.....L7's don't necessarily sound bad Rick rolled?

Thanks man! Where are you at in Tucson? Tanque verde & sabino canyon, east side. But I'm near silver bell & grant almost every other weekend.

The welding wire? Yes, and it's all copper, not cca (copper clad aluminum). Are you going to run multiple runs or just a single power wire? I'm just going off fuse ratings for the above amps, sax100.4 = 90amps & saz3kd external fuse 300amps. So I'd personally run enough wire to handle near that amperage. 2 runs of 0/1gauge 15ft in length each, could carry 380amps. (Not sure how much voltage drop you would experience, may or may not be an issue. Use this to figure voltage drop: http://www.securityideas.com/howtocalvold.html I'll edit my post later, gotta run out the door...

Welcome to the forum man

It's one of those things, my son's HU has been so-so from day one. So to make good on his project we are changing it out. Sefugi has been collecting some peices for the last few months, and will hopfully get to break the ice on it soon. Our family has been hosting 2 foreign exchange students this school year, so having a total of 4 teenagers in the household has put Daddy Sefugi's extra spending money in a pinch. Who you calling old!? That's very cool.

Go here: https://support.dcpowerinc.com/index.php?/Tickets/Submit and send in a ticket, faster response. Good luck

Go here: https://support.dcpowerinc.com/index.php?/Tickets/Submit and send in a ticket, faster response.

thanks

long story Had Andrew start building me one for my jeep back in Nov. Then the beginning of this month I told him to hold off cause I'm getting a new car and the box likely wouldn't fit. Got a new car and the box dimensions fit, so he's going back to finishing it up. Only change is moving the aero ports around so they don't butt up against fenderwell or glass/hatch. No pictures, but specs are: 31 deep 34 wide 19.85 tall 7.6 cubes @ 33 Hz (3 6" psp aeroports) single baffle w/ flush mount. wooden dowel bracing, 45s in corners So it should be pretty cool Sounds great! Love seeing Andrews work. When is he gonna post up some pics of the enclosure coming together?? It's tough as is trying to get a hold of him now a days, so I haven't bugged him about pictures, although I'd like to see the progress as well. But when I get the box I'll be sure to post pictures/

Oh sweet, new deck looks awesome.

long story Had Andrew start building me one for my jeep back in Nov. Then the beginning of this month I told him to hold off cause I'm getting a new car and the box likely wouldn't fit. Got a new car and the box dimensions fit, so he's going back to finishing it up. Only change is moving the aero ports around so they don't butt up against fenderwell or glass/hatch. No pictures, but specs are: 31 deep 34 wide 19.85 tall 7.6 cubes @ 33 Hz (3 6" psp aeroports) single baffle w/ flush mount. wooden dowel bracing, 45s in corners So it should be pretty cool

haha Really didnt feel like droping 1k on a new set of speaks since i have lots other stuff to do to the wagon! Sir-lancelot did offer too sell his two 18inch xcons for a hell of a price but i need a alt and new paint job for the wagon! In time for shure i will have 18's ) Just let me tap the potential with my 12's first. Just curious, didn't know you already had the 12s. I'm just happy my volvo has tons of space, that the substage will take up the whole cargo area, but I'll be able to carry more people / stuff in the back seats then I ever could in the jeep. win win situation

I suggest going through the forum and reading new&old topics, you'll learn a lot, you'll be able to make decisions yourself and if your confused or curious about something, make a post. Otherwise your going to get a hundred different people telling you a hundred different things. It all comes down to user preference and their goals.

If your gonna be a dick, at least give some advice, tips, help, money gram, etc.

Have fun with that Last week was a coffee shop, So I'm ready, got my airsoft gun painted all black, nice Whig, the works... Like this? But in the left hand is a gun and the briefcase is full of money Pretty close, my ski mask doesn't protect my mouth.

I don't have any fancy front stage, just passive with hertz coaxials but my alpine cde-102 does everything I need it to do.