ssh

I don't see why you couldn't, it would be doing the same thing as the alternator would.

Figured but then again you never know

I just don't like cutting a 2"x2" hole or what ever in the box and replacing that with plastic. The last box I had built, I specifically told the builder to use binding posts and not plastic terminal cups, he said he had something better, came back the next day he used a ~3"x3" plastic terminal cup screwed into the box and silicone-d around the edges. Any how the rest of the box was built poorly and overall the box flexed way too much. I'm not saying using a terminal cup will reduce the box strength / rigidity, I don't know, but I don't want to be cheap use it and find out it does

Adding to what M5 is saying, once you measure it and know how much volume you need to fill up in the enclosure, you could glue in two panels in the inside forming a L, it could run the width of the box and take up that volume.

That one is easy. If it isn't designed to only run on premium you should never use it. I was meaning it's the OPs choice, that there is no definitive or set way when going about trading via forums. Some ship at the same time, one person ships first to whoever is more reputable, some ship and other put down a deposit, etc.

Should I put premium or regular gas in my tank?

Well you've already went back and forth on what the volume would be, but either way driver displacement, port displacement, and bracing displacement will help you out in this case.

Perhaps you should post some pictures so we can better understand what your talking about.

Your just guessing its 2cubes? mmkay... I'd measure everything and have some real dimensions to calculate gross volume, then subtract bracing, port, and driver displacement.

Yeah that's definitely not the best solution, if even a solution...

Nice shirt

Why do you want to use more then the recommended amount? Box is already made?

I would figure out how much room your willing to give up for the enclosure, then find your net volume, then see if the 15" or 12" would be best suited for the volume you got. I would stick to a traditional ported enclosure, most people fuck something up when they do a 6th order or bandpass.

Nice, putting leather or pleather on the box would be sick.

So clean, I love the photography and simplicity of everything.

I'm guessing your amp is going to pull around 100-150amps depending on usage. At idle you'll be below the amps requirements and you'll still be trying to run all the other electricals in the car, so you'd have some voltage drop, an extra battery could probably make up for the difference. Also I would find out if the amp actually does 220amps max and if so, at what rpm?

I'm shocked! You should open a car audio shop and compete against them.

I'd check the DC Power site for an alt, if it isn't listed for your car, fill out a support ticket. My dc power alt has been great, but on the down side their customer service is lacking (very busy company, hard to get a hold of). But to me their product is worth the wait.

Box looks sick

Mark, I ever tell you I love you I'm counting on you bringing back some awesome footage, as always

Was it this:

Bought a pair of used xcons from MemphisMzd, Shipped next day, drivers in great condition, couldn't ask for more. Thanks again, Stefan

Me too! I got too many boxes just sitting in my room

Well when we cross the leads its reading all over the place and the settles down it reads .2 what should it read Well some dmms may already calculate resistance in the dmm itself and would read 0.00 but since yours is reading 0.2 when there crossed out it seems logical that you would subtract 0.2 from your readings on the coil. Hopefully someone can chime in on this

those double dins? never had a pioneer hu but everyone seems to love them bought a used saz3000d yesterday. Any how lets not veer off topic