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Thanks man! I am anxious to start the front stage. I will be moving into my new house in April. Hopefully by June I will have it done I am already thinking about changing the substage from the single 15" to dual 12". I am trying to resist tearing it out until the end of this year. The bass bug is a real bitch ain't it I've changed my sub stage five times in the last year...

I'm sure, it all adds up

I somehow missed this build, enclosure / rack came out great. Looks like a mini home theater tower behind the seats Just goes to show you don't need tons of money and fancy equipment to have something nice.

Just because your subwoofer is a product of Fi Car Audio doesn't mean this should be in their section. Hopefully a mod will move this into the correct section and you'll get some help. Also, try not to be vague, what specifically are you having problems with? What is your "current box"? Whats the dimensions, and volume of the box? What driver(s) are you using exactly? What tuning are you trying to achieve?

Gotta have to make Yes and to me the OP is just skimping out of buying a 3000watt amp. I also know distortion will rise a bit, not sure if it'll be audible or not. To me this is like buying a subaru wrx, adding a mbc and boosting it from the stock 14.5psi to 25psi and going YIPPIE I'm race ready!

I'm not sure about the V2s, but the V1s can do it with proper electrical. But I have some doubts that the OP will upgrade his electrical.

What coils do your icons have? And your planning on switching to xcons and wiring to .5? In my honest opinion, don't be cheap and run it at .5, if you need 3000watts buy a 3000d. And if you do end up running it at 0.5 you better have a good electrical setup.

Lets just make sure were on the same page, do you know for a fact that the amp is on? Does the light on the amp light up? Try plugging an ipod into the amp for the signal, if that works then your LOC isn't working. You can hook your ipod to the amp by using a 3.5mm jack to rca cable. Lets make sure your amp is actually turning on, getting a signal, and producing power before you start accusing someone.

That's a nice looking babe!!

That works well if you leave a small gap (inch or so) between where the seats fold back and the box, that way when the seats are up there's still space for the subwoofer to move without hitting the seats. But you would want to seal the box and the opening, likely using a wood panel or foam. It's something more of a DIY person would do. You'd likely get better output and less rattle, but it's a lot more work and you would be altering the interior as the previous plan did. So I believe for you, in your case, a traditional ported enclosure would be best. Andrew knows his stuff, I'd just tell him your max dimensions, what driver(s) you want to use, and let him work his magic. Forgive me and others who aren't the OP for cluttering the topic Andrew

That's not an addiction, that's just being stupid... Could of worded that any better.

Make a new thread under "Argent Audio" with that information.

I've only gotten my volvo up to a 100, wasn't really trying to see how fast it would go though. I've ridden my dirt bike in the desert parallel to the freeway and was passing cars once

I hear ya. You can always have a rear seat down when your not carrying people in the back, and the rest of the time have a bit less output. But yeah doing a traditional ported enclosure not fitted to seal against the trunk will work fine. Take some measurements of the trunk area and trunk entrance, figure out your max dimensions for a box you could fit inside, then Andrew can build to that. Post a build log when you get a chance

You should be able to get the computer flashed to raise the limiter, most of the time there set to some arbitrary or excessive number like 500. The c30 we have is set to 130 stock...

I would cut out a a rectangle in the above sheet metal, as long as it doesn't effect structural safety (which it shouldn't considering that area is thin sheet metal). So cut out a rectangle so your making an opening for the bass to enter the cabin, you could then make a fiberglass panel or wood panel wrapped in carpet, pleather, vinyl, etc to go over the cut sheet metal area. Then you'd have your opening but with a decent beauty panel it'd look stock.

It's a bad way trying to combat mids and highs being drowned out from bass. Throw more and more drivers into the front stage, whether there above, below, to the left, to the right, or behind you and throw more power at them.

Good deal

Is there a ski pass in the center of the rear seats that goes down?

x2 That box is acting as a blockade / sealer between the trunk and cabin, so unless you start cutting some of that sheet metal on top...

Obviously the company has tons of overhead, but I remember seeing a few episodes where they had to meet their quota at the end of the day, I think they were doing like $10k or something everyday.

I started watching their youtube channel about 2 months ago, I remember seeing a few episodes of doing dash ipads. Never knew they were selling that

Love these kinds of mods! Would lke to see the steps you take in making this happen! i'll try and take lots of pics. this will be a slow project with my work schedule sucking tho... Completely agree with Sefugi, anything to do with glassing is exciting to me. I'm moving into a new house in a few weeks and I should have a lot more room to do projects, I'm hoping to do some glassing for a while, make some pod/shelf speakers, and move on to my doors.

I just sold a saz1500d v2 in excellent condition locally today, I bet it'll be fried in a few months... Buyer didn't want to spend 60 bucks on proper power wire, much less a battery or h/o alt.

word, shit slows down sometimes and I find myself not knowing what to do.